Teak and Holly needed!

[Richard Feffer]

Does anyone have a small piece of teak and holly ply that is used on the cabin sole? I would like to buy a piece 24" x 24" to repair some water damage. I don't want to purchase a full sheet for obvious reasons.

Where might I be able to buy a small piece?

Thanks,

Richard Feffer
s/v Adamarie
CD30MKII



RichFef@Prodigy.net

[Joe Sankey]

Does anyone have a small piece of teak and holly ply that is used on the cabin sole? I would like to buy a piece 24" x 24" to repair some water damage. I don't want to purchase a full sheet for obvious reasons.

Where might I be able to buy a small piece?

Thanks,

Richard Feffer
s/v Adamarie
CD30MKII

Richard, you might try Riverside Lumber in New Orleans. I haven't been there in some time but I think they used to cut plywood into partial sheets. www.riversidelumber.com



sankey@gulftel.com

[Duncan Maio]

Where might I be able to buy a small piece?

Boulter Plywood in Somerville, MA



mail@mysticmarine.net

[Michael Bond]

Richard, I have just completed repacing the entire sole in my CD30. I have several nice sized pieces left over. However, this veneer comes in several different configurations. My original was 1/8" holly strips on four inch centers. The new veneer that I used is 1/4" holly on 4" centers.This is 1/4" thick plywood by the way. It also comes in several thickness. Which type do you need?

Where might I be able to buy a small piece?

Thanks,

Richard Feffer
s/v Adamarie
CD30MKII

bondmichael@worldnet.att.net

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Captain Bond,

Could you possibly write up a little something about how you replaced the sole on a CD-30? Things like: Removing the old sole, interfering furniture, releasing fastening, framing openings etc. I am sure that many CD-30 owners would like to hear about what you ran into.

Thank you,

Dave Stump
CD-30C Hanalei

[Michael Bond]

Mr. Stump
Removing and replacing the old sole wasn't as difficult as I had feared. My CD 30 is a 1976 model and the sole was in pretty sad shape. I have owned the boat for 5 yrs now and have now finnaly made it to the inside portion of a complete refurbishing. The boat had experienced some prolonged leaking from the bowsprit and some from port lites.The old sole I assume was the original from the factory as there was no evidince of it having ever been removed.The flat portion was Teak and holly 1/4" plywood. The pieces which follow the curving line of the hull were just plain teak 1/4" ply. I have replaced with same with the exception of the width of the holly strips in the new veneer is 1/4" wide where the old ply was 1/8" holly strips.The spacing of the holly strips in the veneer is the same (4" +-).I also replaced the vertical portions of the setee berths as they were begining to de-laminate on the bottom edge.I don"t think that the raw edges of the plywoods were ever sealed at construction. These pieces require a few bungs over screws to finish. The trick is to remove all the parts intact so as to be able to use them as patterns which saves a ton of layout and time. I purchased the new plywood locally(Seabrook, Texas) with no difficulty. The sole and accompaning side pieces which follow the line of the hull were glued to the fiberglass sole liner with some type of contac cement which had lost most of it tenacity. There were only a couple of screws fastening these pieces to the fiberglass liner. They were probably added by a previous owner. To remove the sole I simply found a looses edge and began prying it loose using a long flat piece of steel 1 1/2" x 16" long to get under the plywood and lift up. The 1/4" ply was pretty fragile but did come up intact. The curved side pieces were a little more difficult to remove, They are pretty narrow in their center and were delaminated as well, but did come off ok. I had already removed the vertical settee sides which go over the curved sole pieces. These are 1/2" ply. The fiberglass sole liner was cleaned by scraping and going over with a 60 grit belt sander. Then it was just follow the patterns for the replacement pieces. The most time consuming parts were the access panels to the bilge. There were only two original ones on my boat. Upon removing the sole I found two more that had been covered over originally. One in the v-berth sole and one in the galley sole! As you probably know storage,especially low and on the center line is premiun real-estate on a boat this size. I just followed the original design of thes panels and their solid teak edges and frames. They were easily duplicated using a table saw. The cutouts from the panel holes were used to make the panels temeselves allowing for the holly lines and grain of the teak to be continious thru the panels and sole.I installed all the pieces with west epoxy as adhesive. The next person will probably not have such an easy removal.It probably took me 40 or so hours of my own cheap labor to complete the entire sole replacement. Sealing of all sides and edges of the plywoods are essential for a proper replacement though. If you would like I would be happy to e-mail you some photos of the finished product.
Michael Bond



Bondmichael@worldnet.att.net

[Larry DeMers]

Excellent article Mike!
One question; When you got into the bilge in the cabin area, how much room was there under the teak and holly floor? As I understand what you wrote, you now have a sole access hatch in the galley flooring, two in the sette area flooring and one in the head area flooring. Is that correct? Would you happen to have some photos of this aspect? I am trying to locate some storage in the floor, originally thinking to locate a set of Golf Cart Batteries there (but put them in the v berth behind the holding tank instead -perfect place for them). But now I would like to fit some plastic tubs or something down these cutout areas..for stowage of can goods, and heavier items.
We may also be required to add a grey water holding tank to the boat someday, so would like to scope the area out for that modification.

Could you send me your photo collection please?

Addr. is demers@sgi.com

Thanks,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

Mr. Stump
Removing and replacing the old sole wasn't as difficult as I had feared. My CD 30 is a 1976 model and the sole was in pretty sad shape. I have owned the boat for 5 yrs now and have now finnaly made it to the inside portion of a complete refurbishing. The boat had experienced some prolonged leaking from the bowsprit and some from port lites.The old sole I assume was the original from the factory as there was no evidince of it having ever been removed.The flat portion was Teak and holly 1/4" plywood. The pieces which follow the curving line of the hull were just plain teak 1/4" ply. I have replaced with same with the exception of the width of the holly strips in the new veneer is 1/4" wide where the old ply was 1/8" holly strips.The spacing of the holly strips in the veneer is the same (4" +-).I also replaced the vertical portions of the setee berths as they were begining to de-laminate on the bottom edge.I don"t think that the raw edges of the plywoods were ever sealed at construction. These pieces require a few bungs over screws to finish. The trick is to remove all the parts intact so as to be able to use them as patterns which saves a ton of layout and time. I purchased the new plywood locally(Seabrook, Texas) with no difficulty. The sole and accompaning side pieces which follow the line of the hull were glued to the fiberglass sole liner with some type of contac cement which had lost most of it tenacity. There were only a couple of screws fastening these pieces to the fiberglass liner. They were probably added by a previous owner. To remove the sole I simply found a looses edge and began prying it loose using a long flat piece of steel 1 1/2" x 16" long to get under the plywood and lift up. The 1/4" ply was pretty fragile but did come up intact. The curved side pieces were a little more difficult to remove, They are pretty narrow in their center and were delaminated as well, but did come off ok. I had already removed the vertical settee sides which go over the curved sole pieces. These are 1/2" ply. The fiberglass sole liner was cleaned by scraping and going over with a 60 grit belt sander. Then it was just follow the patterns for the replacement pieces. The most time consuming parts were the access panels to the bilge. There were only two original ones on my boat. Upon removing the sole I found two more that had been covered over originally. One in the v-berth sole and one in the galley sole! As you probably know storage,especially low and on the center line is premiun real-estate on a boat this size. I just followed the original design of thes panels and their solid teak edges and frames. They were easily duplicated using a table saw. The cutouts from the panel holes were used to make the panels temeselves allowing for the holly lines and grain of the teak to be continious thru the panels and sole.I installed all the pieces with west epoxy as adhesive. The next person will probably not have such an easy removal.It probably took me 40 or so hours of my own cheap labor to complete the entire sole replacement. Sealing of all sides and edges of the plywoods are essential for a proper replacement though. If you would like I would be happy to e-mail you some photos of the finished product.
Michael Bond

demers@sgi.com

[Michael Bond]

Larry;

To clarify, I had a total of two bilge access panels in the main salon sole. In the head area I have a removeable panel which covers a small sump which has a hose to the main bilge area. I now have a total of five panels. The original two in the main salon area, the one in the head, one new one in the galley, and one new one the the v-berth area.The two that I added were originally formed into the fiberglass hull liner but were filled with 3/4" plywood and covered over with the 1/4" teak and holly veneer. It appears that this was the original construction. The v-berth panel accesses a small area just in the forefoot. It is only big enough to hold maybe 3 quarts of oil, etc. The head panel has it's liner cast into the fiberglass floor with the drain hose maybe only 2 1/2" deep. There is no access to the bilge area through this panel. The forward panel in the main salon is located a few inches aft of where the sole steps up to the head. This panel opens up to the forward bilge over the cast ballast. This area is pretty shallow but is open to the rest of the bilge. I keep my dive weights and spare short pieces of chain here. The aft panel in the main salon is (was) the main access to the bilge pump and the most useable bilge area. I keep a spare one gallon oil jug here and one filled with diesel for priming filters, ect. I know this is probably not a good place for fuel ect. but have yet to experience any problems. The last but not least is the new panel in the galley area. This panel is a little larger than the rest and is located directly over the bilge well and pump.Much better access to the pump. I plan to put a removeable false floor here to gain some more much needed storage. On the subject of storage, I have gleaned a few more cubic feet of this valuable space by adding removeable cut-outs in the v-berth plywood floor(the part under the cushion) to access the voids between the hull liner and the hull.I also removed the bow water tank as when filled added too much weight forward. I seem to do just fine with the two tanks located under the settee berths. I added a small holding tank in the original storage area which was just aft of the bow tank. I now have the entire area previously occupied by the tank as storage. I keep a spare head sail and one anchor here. So much for weight distribution! I also added four cut-outs under each of the settee berths. There is quite a bit of wasted un-accessable space in these areas. These small spaces work great for such items as spares, Jack lines ect.I do not understand why the galley area panel was not installed at the factory as this is the logical access to the bilge well. Please reply if there are differences from this description and your boat. I am curious as how changes were made during the production run of these boats. My hull number is 4. I will take some photos of these modifications next week-end and forward to you.

Thanks;

Michael Bond
"Frivolity"
CD 30-K

Excellent article Mike!

One question; When you got into the bilge in the cabin area, how much room was there under the teak and holly floor? As I understand what you wrote, you now have a sole access hatch in the galley flooring, two in the sette area flooring and one in the head area flooring. Is that correct? Would you happen to have some photos of this aspect? I am trying to locate some storage in the floor, originally thinking to locate a set of Golf Cart Batteries there (but put them in the v berth behind the holding tank instead -perfect place for them). But now I would like to fit some plastic tubs or something down these cutout areas..for stowage of can goods, and heavier items.
We may also be required to add a grey water holding tank to the boat someday, so would like to scope the area out for that modification.

Could you send me your photo collection please?

Addr. is demers@sgi.com

Thanks,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

Mr. Stump
Removing and replacing the old sole wasn't as difficult as I had feared. My CD 30 is a 1976 model and the sole was in pretty sad shape. I have owned the boat for 5 yrs now and have now finnaly made it to the inside portion of a complete refurbishing. The boat had experienced some prolonged leaking from the bowsprit and some from port lites.The old sole I assume was the original from the factory as there was no evidince of it having ever been removed.The flat portion was Teak and holly 1/4" plywood. The pieces which follow the curving line of the hull were just plain teak 1/4" ply. I have replaced with same with the exception of the width of the holly strips in the new veneer is 1/4" wide where the old ply was 1/8" holly strips.The spacing of the holly strips in the veneer is the same (4" +-).I also replaced the vertical portions of the setee berths as they were begining to de-laminate on the bottom edge.I don"t think that the raw edges of the plywoods were ever sealed at construction. These pieces require a few bungs over screws to finish. The trick is to remove all the parts intact so as to be able to use them as patterns which saves a ton of layout and time. I purchased the new plywood locally(Seabrook, Texas) with no difficulty. The sole and accompaning side pieces which follow the line of the hull were glued to the fiberglass sole liner with some type of contac cement which had lost most of it tenacity. There were only a couple of screws fastening these pieces to the fiberglass liner. They were probably added by a previous owner. To remove the sole I simply found a looses edge and began prying it loose using a long flat piece of steel 1 1/2" x 16" long to get under the plywood and lift up. The 1/4" ply was pretty fragile but did come up intact. The curved side pieces were a little more difficult to remove, They are pretty narrow in their center and were delaminated as well, but did come off ok. I had already removed the vertical settee sides which go over the curved sole pieces. These are 1/2" ply. The fiberglass sole liner was cleaned by scraping and going over with a 60 grit belt sander. Then it was just follow the patterns for the replacement pieces. The most time consuming parts were the access panels to the bilge. There were only two original ones on my boat. Upon removing the sole I found two more that had been covered over originally. One in the v-berth sole and one in the galley sole! As you probably know storage,especially low and on the center line is premiun real-estate on a boat this size. I just followed the original design of thes panels and their solid teak edges and frames. They were easily duplicated using a table saw. The cutouts from the panel holes were used to make the panels temeselves allowing for the holly lines and grain of the teak to be continious thru the panels and sole.I installed all the pieces with west epoxy as adhesive. The next person will probably not have such an easy removal.It probably took me 40 or so hours of my own cheap labor to complete the entire sole replacement. Sealing of all sides and edges of the plywoods are essential for a proper replacement though. If you would like I would be happy to e-mail you some photos of the finished product.
Michael Bond

bondmichael@worldnet.att.net

[Hanalei]

Captain Bond,

Did the sole go underneath the seatee facepieces? Did you have to remove the seatee fronts to pull up the sole? Or, did you only have to remove the round(fore and aft) tapered trim pieces where the seatee fronts meet the sole? What and on what centers is the sole supported?

I'm not planning on doing this right away, but any help you can give would be appreciated.

Dave Stump
Hanalei

[Rich]

Where might I be able to buy a small piece?

Boulter Plywood in Somerville, MA

I went to Boulter and bought a 2'X 8'X 1/4" piece of the teak and holly plywood. 1/2 sheet @ $75 and full sheet @ $125. Available in 1/4, 1/2, 3/4" thickness, but veneer is the same
thickness. I don't know how well this will hold up, but for $75 I thought I'd give it a try. There's nothing on the sole of my CD25 now and I just took some measurements yesterday. Any tips on making a template?



richard_delcolle@hp.com

[Michael Bond]

Mr. Stump;

Yes the side or curved pieces of the sole did go under the vertical portions of the settee faces. I replaced these faces as they were begining to de-laminate on the bottom. It appears that they were never sealed during construction. The side or curved pieces of the sole that followes the curvature of the hull were just plain teak 1/4" ply, not teak and holly. The entire sole is 1/4" plywood over a complete fiberglass hull liner/floor. The plywood veneer is simply glued to this structural floor. The finished product is quite rewarding for the effort expended. I sealed all surfaces of the new plywood with 2 coats of satin polyurethane. There were a few hidden treasures in this project also. See my reply to larry Demers follow up.

Michael Bond


Captain Bond,

Did the sole go underneath the seatee facepieces? Did you have to remove the seatee fronts to pull up the sole? Or, did you only have to remove the round(fore and aft) tapered trim pieces where the seatee fronts meet the sole? What and on what centers is the sole supported?

I'm not planning on doing this right away, but any help you can give would be appreciated.

Dave Stump
Hanalei

bondmichael@worldnet.att.net