Pedestal Sheave Pin Installation??

[Ken Coit]

OK, my new stainless sheave pins arrived from Edson this morning. At $11 a copy, I will guard them with my life and hopefully they will do the same for Parfait. No bilge time for them!

Does anyone want to share their quick and easy pedestal steering sheave pin installation procedure? I am imagining that I can use the new sheave pins to drive out the old while the cables are under tension. Am I crazy? Is there too much tension on the sheaves? Must I resort to releasing the tension and then resetting it once the pins are replaced?

I hope to know how to do this most easily before I crawl in there with less than the correct assortment of tools.

Thanks for your insights,

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC



parfait@nc.rr.com

[Larry Mace]

OK, my new stainless sheave pins arrived from Edson this morning. At $11 a copy, I will guard them with my life and hopefully they will do the same for Parfait. No bilge time for them!

Does anyone want to share their quick and easy pedestal steering sheave pin installation procedure? I am imagining that I can use the new sheave pins to drive out the old while the cables are under tension. Am I crazy? Is there too much tension on the sheaves? Must I resort to releasing the tension and then resetting it once the pins are replaced?

I hope to know how to do this most easily before I crawl in there with less than the correct assortment of tools.

Thanks for your insights,

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC

Ken,
Thanks for the information re the sizing. I spoke with Ken Martin at Edson and he was very helpful. I asked him if I needed to release the tension on the cable and said yes. Not what I wanted to hear-always seems like one more thing to go wrong. Let us know how you make out and any hints you have.
Larry



lmace@gt.com

[Ken Coit]

Larry,

I expected as much, since my way was the lazy way. It is probably better to release the tension than have parts shooting into the bilge never to be seen again. I guess I must need a set of ratchet box wrenches to do this right. There is no chance the one I have will fit, if I can find it.

Ken

OK, my new stainless sheave pins arrived from Edson this morning. At $11 a copy, I will guard them with my life and hopefully they will do the same for Parfait. No bilge time for them!

Does anyone want to share their quick and easy pedestal steering sheave pin installation procedure? I am imagining that I can use the new sheave pins to drive out the old while the cables are under tension. Am I crazy? Is there too much tension on the sheaves? Must I resort to releasing the tension and then resetting it once the pins are replaced?

I hope to know how to do this most easily before I crawl in there with less than the correct assortment of tools.

Thanks for your insights,

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC

Ken,
Thanks for the information re the sizing. I spoke with Ken Martin at Edson and he was very helpful. I asked him if I needed to release the tension on the cable and said yes. Not what I wanted to hear-always seems like one more thing to go wrong. Let us know how you make out and any hints you have.
Larry

parfait@nc.rr.com

[Larry Mace]

Ken,
I know the feeling. I wait to hear your experience. For the first time I wish I had a 36 instead of the 33 as I am sure there is more room down there! We were going to head offshore this weekend but may just settle for the bay until we get this project done.
Larry

Larry,

I expected as much, since my way was the lazy way. It is probably better to release the tension than have parts shooting into the bilge never to be seen again. I guess I must need a set of ratchet box wrenches to do this right. There is no chance the one I have will fit, if I can find it.

Ken

OK, my new stainless sheave pins arrived from Edson this morning. At $11 a copy, I will guard them with my life and hopefully they will do the same for Parfait. No bilge time for them!

Does anyone want to share their quick and easy pedestal steering sheave pin installation procedure? I am imagining that I can use the new sheave pins to drive out the old while the cables are under tension. Am I crazy? Is there too much tension on the sheaves? Must I resort to releasing the tension and then resetting it once the pins are replaced?

I hope to know how to do this most easily before I crawl in there with less than the correct assortment of tools.

Thanks for your insights,

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC

Ken,
Thanks for the information re the sizing. I spoke with Ken Martin at Edson and he was very helpful. I asked him if I needed to release the tension on the cable and said yes. Not what I wanted to hear-always seems like one more thing to go wrong. Let us know how you make out and any hints you have.
Larry

lMACE@GT.COM

[zeida]

Hi, guys: Since I also have a CD-33 (1981) my sheave pins must be ready to give up. I have printed all previous postings on this issue from this board and am waiting to hear from whoever does it first. Please share the info on the board. I am now terrified to go sailing in case these things give up on me while out there. What specifically should I order from Edson to replace my existing pins? Thanks.
Zeida





zcecil@attglobal.net

[Larry Mace]

Hi, guys: Since I also have a CD-33 (1981) my sheave pins must be ready to give up. I have printed all previous postings on this issue from this board and am waiting to hear from whoever does it first. Please share the info on the board. I am now terrified to go sailing in case these things give up on me while out there. What specifically should I order from Edson to replace my existing pins? Thanks.
Zeida

Zeida,
See Ken's post above for the details. I spoke with Ken Martin at Edson and he confirmed the part would be the same for the 33. You will need 4 pins. The part number is 960-a-1315a. My boat is a 1980 and Ken thought I might have stainless so I am going to check this weekend.
Larry



lmace@gt.com

[Ken Coit]

Hmmmmm.

Parfait is an 1983 boat and he never mentioned that she might have stainless pins. He was sure they were bronze. Has anyone out there found stainless sheave pins? What model, serial number and year please?

I'll be looking at the pins and possibly replacing them this weekend. They are 3/8" in diameter and Edson's part number is 960-A-1315A. You need 4 as Larry states.

Ken

Hi, guys: Since I also have a CD-33 (1981) my sheave pins must be ready to give up. I have printed all previous postings on this issue from this board and am waiting to hear from whoever does it first. Please share the info on the board. I am now terrified to go sailing in case these things give up on me while out there. What specifically should I order from Edson to replace my existing pins? Thanks.
Zeida

Zeida,
See Ken's post above for the details. I spoke with Ken Martin at Edson and he confirmed the part would be the same for the 33. You will need 4 pins. The part number is 960-a-1315a. My boat is a 1980 and Ken thought I might have stainless so I am going to check this weekend.
Larry

parfait@nc.rr.com

[Jerry]

Hmmmmm.

Parfait is an 1983 boat and he never mentioned that she might have stainless pins. He was sure they were bronze. Has anyone out there found stainless sheave pins? What model, serial number and year please?

I'll be looking at the pins and possibly replacing them this weekend. They are 3/8" in diameter and Edson's part number is 960-A-1315A. You need 4 as Larry states.

Ken

I have a 1984 cd30 (#321) and my pins are bronze (and badly worn). I have the parts in hand from Edson and will be doing the job this weekend. Since there are 4 pins involved and there is VERY little space to work in a CD30, I'm thinking it might be easier to undo the cabels and remove the whole assembly from the boat to replace the pins. Any thoughts?

[Joe Sankey]

Hmmmmm.

Parfait is an 1983 boat and he never mentioned that she might have stainless pins. He was sure they were bronze. Has anyone out there found stainless sheave pins? What model, serial number and year please?

I'll be looking at the pins and possibly replacing them this weekend. They are 3/8" in diameter and Edson's part number is 960-A-1315A. You need 4 as Larry states.

Ken

I have a 1984 cd30 (#321) and my pins are bronze (and badly worn). I have the parts in hand from Edson and will be doing the job this weekend. Since there are 4 pins involved and there is VERY little space to work in a CD30, I'm thinking it might be easier to undo the cabels and remove the whole assembly from the boat to replace the pins. Any thoughts?

Wish I could help on your CD30. I have #311 and Ken suspects bronze pins even though the wheel steering was added after purchase. I'd love to benefit from anything you learn (like how to temporarily become a midget) when you install yours. Please keep us up to date on what you learn. A friend lost steering on his 30 a couple years ago and I don't think I want that experience in my logbook. Joe



sankey@gulftel.com

[Ken Coit]

Jerry,

One of the reasons we don't have a smaller boat is because I couldn't see getting these 220 pounds around in the engine space of most boats. There are a few exceptions, but not many, and the 36 isn't exactly a cup of tea either.

I think you ought to resign yourself to doing the job with the sheave bracket assembly in place. From the photos in the catalog, there are four comparatively inaccessable bolts holding it to the pedestal through the cockpit floor. That is likely to be all that is holding the pedestal down, so you might get yourself into a major project of having to reseal the pedestal if you mess with those bolts. The assembly weighs 15 pounds and is 25"Lx12"Dx6"H. Even after you extract the cables, it is going to be a pain to deal with. To extract the cables you would probably have to release the two cable clamps and the thimble on each cable after releasing the tension from the take up adjuster.

On the other hand:

you can set cotter pins in one end of each of the four sheave pins before you ever step foot on the boat:

you can cut the ends off the old cotter pins if they are hard to straighten (from the photos it appears there is enough clearance around the assembly that the the pins can go in from either end); and

you should not have to remove the cable from the take up eye, simply loosen the adjustment and lock nuts (the drawing doesn't specify the size of the nuts).

I think that removing and replacing the assembly is just more work and only simplifies about 10 minutes of the job. My guess is that you will spend an additional 30 to 60 minutes in there if you decide to pull the assembly and you may end up with other complications as well.

A trained monkey would be very handy, but one thing I have learned is that my Avon dinghy thwart fits fairly neatly across the engine compartment. I use it as a temporary bridge over the stuffing box and shaft. I can slide across from the pilot berth to the access panel in the port locker and reach that unreachable seacock that way. It would also be handy when trying to work on the steering which, in my case, is complicated by the autopilot arm.

All that is my way of saying that I am resigned to replacing the pins with the assembly in place because it seems to be the lazy way out; YMMV - Your mileage may vary.

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC

Hmmmmm.

Parfait is an 1983 boat and he never mentioned that she might have stainless pins. He was sure they were bronze. Has anyone out there found stainless sheave pins? What model, serial number and year please?

I'll be looking at the pins and possibly replacing them this weekend. They are 3/8" in diameter and Edson's part number is 960-A-1315A. You need 4 as Larry states.

Ken

I have a 1984 cd30 (#321) and my pins are bronze (and badly worn). I have the parts in hand from Edson and will be doing the job this weekend. Since there are 4 pins involved and there is VERY little space to work in a CD30, I'm thinking it might be easier to undo the cabels and remove the whole assembly from the boat to replace the pins. Any thoughts?

parfait@nc.rr.com

[David Potts]

According to the Edson documentation in the CD manual, Edson recommends that the wire be replaced after 5 years, keeping the original on board as a spare, if still good. I assume I still have the original on my 1982 CD30 (at least I know I haven't replaced it since I bought it in 1990). I haven't ordered a new one yet, but according to Edson Tech Support, their records indicate I would need Chain & Wire Kit 775-2S15B7 (translated: 1.5' of 5/8" chain and two 7' lengths of 3/16" wire assembled), priced at $164. They also recommended new cable clamps (665ST-187, 4 @ $4.50 ea), although made no mention of checking/replacing sheave pins. Sounds like I should add them to my project.

Has anyone else replaced the chain & wire kit? What will this entail? I was assuming I could just remove the compass (using pieces of tape to realign it properly when I reinstall it) and thread the new one through the pedestal, perhaps using the old one as a feeder line to guide it through. Am I totally crazy or just mildly deluded?

Dave



david.potts@fairchildsemi.com

[Ken Coit]

I didn't notice any problems with the chain end when I had my pedestal apart a year ago. I did add some lubrication. I will take a look at the cable end over the weekend. Did they indicate what is likely to fail? The cable clamps seem like the weak link, but they can replaced or reset relatively inexpensively. Maybe the cable frays? That could be replaced for a lot less than the price quoted. Could the chain wear? Do the nicropress fittings give out?

$164 sounds like a lot of money for 18" of chain, 14' of cable with two thimbles and a couple of nicro clamps. Am I wrong? Makes crimping tools look less and less expensive. The sell both galvanized and stainless clamps. It would appear they have quoted the stainless clamps which is good.

It seems to me that the chain and cable assembly must come out via the pedestal, so it would be wise to add a messenger to the end of each cable below the cockpit before pulling the assembly. That ought to make the replacement go a bit easier.

My thoughts....

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC

According to the Edson documentation in the CD manual, Edson recommends that the wire be replaced after 5 years, keeping the original on board as a spare, if still good. I assume I still have the original on my 1982 CD30 (at least I know I haven't replaced it since I bought it in 1990). I haven't ordered a new one yet, but according to Edson Tech Support, their records indicate I would need Chain & Wire Kit 775-2S15B7 (translated: 1.5' of 5/8" chain and two 7' lengths of 3/16" wire assembled), priced at $164. They also recommended new cable clamps (665ST-187, 4 @ $4.50 ea), although made no mention of checking/replacing sheave pins. Sounds like I should add them to my project.

Has anyone else replaced the chain & wire kit? What will this entail? I was assuming I could just remove the compass (using pieces of tape to realign it properly when I reinstall it) and thread the new one through the pedestal, perhaps using the old one as a feeder line to guide it through. Am I totally crazy or just mildly deluded?

Dave

parfait@nc.rr.com

[Jerry]

Hmmmmm.

Parfait is an 1983 boat and he never mentioned that she might have stainless pins. He was sure they were bronze. Has anyone out there found stainless sheave pins? What model, serial number and year please?

I'll be looking at the pins and possibly replacing them this weekend. They are 3/8" in diameter and Edson's part number is 960-A-1315A. You need 4 as Larry states.

Ken

I have a 1984 cd30 (#321) and my pins are bronze (and badly worn). I have the parts in hand from Edson and will be doing the job this weekend. Since there are 4 pins involved and there is VERY little space to work in a CD30, I'm thinking it might be easier to undo the cabels and remove the whole assembly from the boat to replace the pins. Any thoughts?

Wish I could help on your CD30. I have #311 and Ken suspects bronze pins even though the wheel steering was added after purchase. I'd love to benefit from anything you learn (like how to temporarily become a midget) when you install yours. Please keep us up to date on what you learn. A friend lost steering on his 30 a couple years ago and I don't think I want that experience in my logbook. Joe

I'll be heading to Nova Scotia's eastern shore in July and loss of steering isn't something I want in my log book either. I'll get back to you next week on the problems I'm sure to face with the pins. Ken makes a lot of sense in his warning on the hazards of removing the whole unit, but I'll make that call once I can get a better look at whats going on under there.