Larry,
I plan on bleaching the teak on Hanalei this weekend in preperation to a light sanding and then the application of Armada teak finish. I want to get all the little black specs out! The question is, how much bleach to water do I use? Thanks for your help and any other little tips you have about this....
Dave Stump
Captain Commandiong
s/v Hanalei
Bleaching teak...Larry DeMers...
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Bleaching teak...Larry DeMers...
Hi Capt.,
What I have found to be usually sufficient is one of those soap-bleach concoctions made by Hilex, and also 409 with bleach, amongst others. The danger of getting too much bleach on the wood, and having trouble rinsing it off entirely is lessened by using these prepared products. Either would work of course, but I would reserve the hilex-water combo for persistent or deep penetrated spots. With hilex bleach, mix a 30% solution to start with, or simply spray with the prepared soap-bleach product and allow to stand for a few minutes, then litely scrub with a scotchbrite pad, or if really stubborn, get them with a stiff toothbrush! (There...that'll teach em!)
The black specks are mildew spores that have formed a colony in the wood, so strip back all of the old finishes first, sand and get the shape and appearance perfect, then use the bleach or sprays to kill off the mildew. Allow to dry **thoroughly** (maybe use a hair dryer to hasten the process a bit), then apply that first coat of finish. I would not allow it to sit overnight without a first coating, or the spores may become active again.
Cheers! And a dipping of the ships flag halyards in your honor,
Larry
demers@sgi.com
What I have found to be usually sufficient is one of those soap-bleach concoctions made by Hilex, and also 409 with bleach, amongst others. The danger of getting too much bleach on the wood, and having trouble rinsing it off entirely is lessened by using these prepared products. Either would work of course, but I would reserve the hilex-water combo for persistent or deep penetrated spots. With hilex bleach, mix a 30% solution to start with, or simply spray with the prepared soap-bleach product and allow to stand for a few minutes, then litely scrub with a scotchbrite pad, or if really stubborn, get them with a stiff toothbrush! (There...that'll teach em!)
The black specks are mildew spores that have formed a colony in the wood, so strip back all of the old finishes first, sand and get the shape and appearance perfect, then use the bleach or sprays to kill off the mildew. Allow to dry **thoroughly** (maybe use a hair dryer to hasten the process a bit), then apply that first coat of finish. I would not allow it to sit overnight without a first coating, or the spores may become active again.
Cheers! And a dipping of the ships flag halyards in your honor,
Larry
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Larry,
I plan on bleaching the teak on Hanalei this weekend in preperation to a light sanding and then the application of Armada teak finish. I want to get all the little black specs out! The question is, how much bleach to water do I use? Thanks for your help and any other little tips you have about this....
Dave Stump
Captain Commandiong
s/v Hanalei
demers@sgi.com
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Bleaching teak...Larry DeMers...
Hi Capt.,
What I have found to be usually sufficient is one of those soap-bleach concoctions made by Hilex, and also 409 with bleach, amongst others. The danger of getting too much bleach on the wood, and having trouble rinsing it off entirely is lessened by using these prepared products. Either would work of course, but I would reserve the hilex-water combo for persistent or deep penetrated spots. With hilex bleach, mix a 30% solution to start with, or simply spray with the prepared soap-bleach product and allow to stand for a few minutes, then litely scrub with a scotchbrite pad, or if really stubborn, get them with a stiff toothbrush! (There...that'll teach em!)
The black specks are mildew spores that have formed a colony in the wood, so strip back all of the old finishes first, sand and get the shape and appearance perfect, then use the bleach or sprays to kill off the mildew. Allow to dry **thoroughly** (maybe use a hair dryer to hasten the process a bit), then apply that first coat of finish. I would not allow it to sit overnight without a first coating, or the spores may become active again.
Cheers! And a dipping of the ships flag halyards in your honor,
Larry
demers@sgi.com
What I have found to be usually sufficient is one of those soap-bleach concoctions made by Hilex, and also 409 with bleach, amongst others. The danger of getting too much bleach on the wood, and having trouble rinsing it off entirely is lessened by using these prepared products. Either would work of course, but I would reserve the hilex-water combo for persistent or deep penetrated spots. With hilex bleach, mix a 30% solution to start with, or simply spray with the prepared soap-bleach product and allow to stand for a few minutes, then litely scrub with a scotchbrite pad, or if really stubborn, get them with a stiff toothbrush! (There...that'll teach em!)
The black specks are mildew spores that have formed a colony in the wood, so strip back all of the old finishes first, sand and get the shape and appearance perfect, then use the bleach or sprays to kill off the mildew. Allow to dry **thoroughly** (maybe use a hair dryer to hasten the process a bit), then apply that first coat of finish. I would not allow it to sit overnight without a first coating, or the spores may become active again.
Cheers! And a dipping of the ships flag halyards in your honor,
Larry
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Larry,
I plan on bleaching the teak on Hanalei this weekend in preperation to a light sanding and then the application of Armada teak finish. I want to get all the little black specs out! The question is, how much bleach to water do I use? Thanks for your help and any other little tips you have about this....
Dave Stump
Captain Commandiong
s/v Hanalei
demers@sgi.com
-
D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Larry DeMers...????
Larry,
Is sanding really necessary after bleaching, or can I apply the Armada right after the teak is dry? There is NO finish on Hanalei's teak as we speak, it was all sanded off a year ago. Will the woods color be ok if I don't sand?
Thanks...
D. Stump
Is sanding really necessary after bleaching, or can I apply the Armada right after the teak is dry? There is NO finish on Hanalei's teak as we speak, it was all sanded off a year ago. Will the woods color be ok if I don't sand?
Thanks...
D. Stump
-
Catherine Monaghan
Re: How about on the interior teak?
Larry,
I am in the process of refinishing the interior teak on Realization. It is an oiled finish not varnish or polyurethane. I've already cleaned it with Boatlife Kreme Teak Cleaner which has removed the oil from the wood. It has also lightened it a bit but it would be nice if I could get it a bit lighter. I am reluctant to use any of the two-part teak cleaners (they all seem to be for use on exterior teak where you can rinse it with gallons of water). Do you think I could use your procedure on the interior teak?
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
I am in the process of refinishing the interior teak on Realization. It is an oiled finish not varnish or polyurethane. I've already cleaned it with Boatlife Kreme Teak Cleaner which has removed the oil from the wood. It has also lightened it a bit but it would be nice if I could get it a bit lighter. I am reluctant to use any of the two-part teak cleaners (they all seem to be for use on exterior teak where you can rinse it with gallons of water). Do you think I could use your procedure on the interior teak?
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
Larry DeMers wrote: Hi Capt.,
What I have found to be usually sufficient is one of those soap-bleach concoctions made by Hilex, and also 409 with bleach, amongst others. The danger of getting too much bleach on the wood, and having trouble rinsing it off entirely is lessened by using these prepared products. Either would work of course, but I would reserve the hilex-water combo for persistent or deep penetrated spots. With hilex bleach, mix a 30% solution to start with, or simply spray with the prepared soap-bleach product and allow to stand for a few minutes, then litely scrub with a scotchbrite pad, or if really stubborn, get them with a stiff toothbrush! (There...that'll teach em!)
The black specks are mildew spores that have formed a colony in the wood, so strip back all of the old finishes first, sand and get the shape and appearance perfect, then use the bleach or sprays to kill off the mildew. Allow to dry **thoroughly** (maybe use a hair dryer to hasten the process a bit), then apply that first coat of finish. I would not allow it to sit overnight without a first coating, or the spores may become active again.
Cheers! And a dipping of the ships flag halyards in your honor,
Larry
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Larry,
I plan on bleaching the teak on Hanalei this weekend in preperation to a light sanding and then the application of Armada teak finish. I want to get all the little black specs out! The question is, how much bleach to water do I use? Thanks for your help and any other little tips you have about this....
Dave Stump
Captain Commandiong
s/v Hanalei
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
-
Larry DeMers
Re: How about on the interior teak?
Catherine,
Yes, it would work fine. We did this every time we oiled the interior (prior to using satin varnish on the interior last spring). As I said before, the trick with using hilex is getting the stuff off, because if you don't it will eat the varnish from the backside out. Try the Hilex-Soap mixes in the spray bottle, apply a good dose in the area to be lightened. I have found that rubbing with some bronze wool or the Scotchlite pad to work the bleach into the grain a bit, works well IF the oil is off the surface of the wood (it will stop penetration otherwise).
Leave it on for 5 minutes, wipe off and see what you have to work with. If the spray does not do the trick, then I would try the hilex at 50% mix with water, applied with a sponge (it will eat away at most spray bottles..if the spray nozzle is colored plastic, the color will come right off, so the spray bottle may not work in this application).
Caution: This stuff will redecorate your clothes anywhere it touches..there is nothing you can do to remove the effect either..so wear some oldies but goodies for this work. Aso watch for splashes on carpeting, curtains..your dog...;^) Next to battery acid holes in my jeans, it is the most frequently seen evidence that we are actually working on DeLaMer!
Cheers and good refinishing! You will love it.
Larry
demers@sgi.com
Yes, it would work fine. We did this every time we oiled the interior (prior to using satin varnish on the interior last spring). As I said before, the trick with using hilex is getting the stuff off, because if you don't it will eat the varnish from the backside out. Try the Hilex-Soap mixes in the spray bottle, apply a good dose in the area to be lightened. I have found that rubbing with some bronze wool or the Scotchlite pad to work the bleach into the grain a bit, works well IF the oil is off the surface of the wood (it will stop penetration otherwise).
Leave it on for 5 minutes, wipe off and see what you have to work with. If the spray does not do the trick, then I would try the hilex at 50% mix with water, applied with a sponge (it will eat away at most spray bottles..if the spray nozzle is colored plastic, the color will come right off, so the spray bottle may not work in this application).
Caution: This stuff will redecorate your clothes anywhere it touches..there is nothing you can do to remove the effect either..so wear some oldies but goodies for this work. Aso watch for splashes on carpeting, curtains..your dog...;^) Next to battery acid holes in my jeans, it is the most frequently seen evidence that we are actually working on DeLaMer!
Cheers and good refinishing! You will love it.
Larry
Catherine Monaghan wrote: Larry,
I am in the process of refinishing the interior teak on Realization. It is an oiled finish not varnish or polyurethane. I've already cleaned it with Boatlife Kreme Teak Cleaner which has removed the oil from the wood. It has also lightened it a bit but it would be nice if I could get it a bit lighter. I am reluctant to use any of the two-part teak cleaners (they all seem to be for use on exterior teak where you can rinse it with gallons of water). Do you think I could use your procedure on the interior teak?
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
Larry DeMers wrote: Hi Capt.,
What I have found to be usually sufficient is one of those soap-bleach concoctions made by Hilex, and also 409 with bleach, amongst others. The danger of getting too much bleach on the wood, and having trouble rinsing it off entirely is lessened by using these prepared products. Either would work of course, but I would reserve the hilex-water combo for persistent or deep penetrated spots. With hilex bleach, mix a 30% solution to start with, or simply spray with the prepared soap-bleach product and allow to stand for a few minutes, then litely scrub with a scotchbrite pad, or if really stubborn, get them with a stiff toothbrush! (There...that'll teach em!)
The black specks are mildew spores that have formed a colony in the wood, so strip back all of the old finishes first, sand and get the shape and appearance perfect, then use the bleach or sprays to kill off the mildew. Allow to dry **thoroughly** (maybe use a hair dryer to hasten the process a bit), then apply that first coat of finish. I would not allow it to sit overnight without a first coating, or the spores may become active again.
Cheers! And a dipping of the ships flag halyards in your honor,
Larry
Larry DeMers wrote:D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Larry,
I plan on bleaching the teak on Hanalei this weekend in preperation to a light sanding and then the application of Armada teak finish. I want to get all the little black specs out! The question is, how much bleach to water do I use? Thanks for your help and any other little tips you have about this....
Dave Stump
Captain Commandiong
s/v Hanalei
demers@sgi.com
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Larry DeMers...????
Hi Dave,
Well, I would look at the grain after the teak dries out a bit. Sometimes it stays flat and controlled, so you can get on with the program of finishing. But if your hand, when rubbed with and against the grain, picks up any roughness then i would use a 100 grit on the wood one more time..litely now. Just remove those darn whiskers. Then tack rag her, and finish right away after the tack ragging.
For coloration, you will be the judge of that I suspect. If the coloration looks even enough for your eye, then pass the bleaching step and move on to finishing, otherwise, do as Catherine is going to do to even out the color. (see article above this one). Bleach is a time activated chemical, with results that seem to intensify logrithmically as time passes..it is not linear. By this I mean that just because after 5 min., you have some light results, don't think that another 5 min. will result in a doubling of the effect. It seems to be that once it starts working, the results come very quickly. That is why I use a 30-50% solution of clorox..it's easier to control the effect..and there is less cleanup than with straight clorox (which is itself only a 5% solution or something like that).
Hope that helps ye!
Cheers und Beers,
Larry
demers@sgi.com (for now...)
Well, I would look at the grain after the teak dries out a bit. Sometimes it stays flat and controlled, so you can get on with the program of finishing. But if your hand, when rubbed with and against the grain, picks up any roughness then i would use a 100 grit on the wood one more time..litely now. Just remove those darn whiskers. Then tack rag her, and finish right away after the tack ragging.
For coloration, you will be the judge of that I suspect. If the coloration looks even enough for your eye, then pass the bleaching step and move on to finishing, otherwise, do as Catherine is going to do to even out the color. (see article above this one). Bleach is a time activated chemical, with results that seem to intensify logrithmically as time passes..it is not linear. By this I mean that just because after 5 min., you have some light results, don't think that another 5 min. will result in a doubling of the effect. It seems to be that once it starts working, the results come very quickly. That is why I use a 30-50% solution of clorox..it's easier to control the effect..and there is less cleanup than with straight clorox (which is itself only a 5% solution or something like that).
Hope that helps ye!
Cheers und Beers,
Larry
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Larry,
Is sanding really necessary after bleaching, or can I apply the Armada right after the teak is dry? There is NO finish on Hanalei's teak as we speak, it was all sanded off a year ago. Will the woods color be ok if I don't sand?
Thanks...
D. Stump
demers@sgi.com (for now...)
-
Catherine Monaghan
Re: Is Hi-Lex similar to Clorox?
Larry,
I've never heard of Hi-Lex -- never seen it in the stores in our area. I searched for it on the internet (of course) and it looks like it is regular laundry bleach.
<a href="http://www.hilex.com/">http://www.hilex.com/</a>
I also noticed that they also have a product called Hi-Lex Deck & Wood Cleaner. I wonder if that would do the trick (if only I could find it around here). But if it's anything like the teak cleaners, it will required sinking the boat in order to rinse the stuff off.
Do you think I could make my own concoction of Clorox (or store brand) bleach and soap instead? What kind of soap do you mix it with -- dishwashing liquid, liquid laundry soap? Maybe I'll be able to find the 409.
Thanks,
Cathy
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
I've never heard of Hi-Lex -- never seen it in the stores in our area. I searched for it on the internet (of course) and it looks like it is regular laundry bleach.
<a href="http://www.hilex.com/">http://www.hilex.com/</a>
I also noticed that they also have a product called Hi-Lex Deck & Wood Cleaner. I wonder if that would do the trick (if only I could find it around here). But if it's anything like the teak cleaners, it will required sinking the boat in order to rinse the stuff off.
Do you think I could make my own concoction of Clorox (or store brand) bleach and soap instead? What kind of soap do you mix it with -- dishwashing liquid, liquid laundry soap? Maybe I'll be able to find the 409.
Thanks,
Cathy
Larry DeMers wrote: Catherine,
Yes, it would work fine. We did this every time we oiled the interior (prior to using satin varnish on the interior last spring). As I said before, the trick with using hilex is getting the stuff off, because if you don't it will eat the varnish from the backside out. Try the Hilex-Soap mixes in the spray bottle, apply a good dose in the area to be lightened. I have found that rubbing with some bronze wool or the Scotchlite pad to work the bleach into the grain a bit, works well IF the oil is off the surface of the wood (it will stop penetration otherwise).
Leave it on for 5 minutes, wipe off and see what you have to work with. If the spray does not do the trick, then I would try the hilex at 50% mix with water, applied with a sponge (it will eat away at most spray bottles..if the spray nozzle is colored plastic, the color will come right off, so the spray bottle may not work in this application).
Caution: This stuff will redecorate your clothes anywhere it touches..there is nothing you can do to remove the effect either..so wear some oldies but goodies for this work. Aso watch for splashes on carpeting, curtains..your dog...;^) Next to battery acid holes in my jeans, it is the most frequently seen evidence that we are actually working on DeLaMer!
Cheers and good refinishing! You will love it.
LarryCatherine Monaghan wrote: Larry,
I am in the process of refinishing the interior teak on Realization. It is an oiled finish not varnish or polyurethane. I've already cleaned it with Boatlife Kreme Teak Cleaner which has removed the oil from the wood. It has also lightened it a bit but it would be nice if I could get it a bit lighter. I am reluctant to use any of the two-part teak cleaners (they all seem to be for use on exterior teak where you can rinse it with gallons of water). Do you think I could use your procedure on the interior teak?
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
Larry DeMers wrote: Hi Capt.,
What I have found to be usually sufficient is one of those soap-bleach concoctions made by Hilex, and also 409 with bleach, amongst others. The danger of getting too much bleach on the wood, and having trouble rinsing it off entirely is lessened by using these prepared products. Either would work of course, but I would reserve the hilex-water combo for persistent or deep penetrated spots. With hilex bleach, mix a 30% solution to start with, or simply spray with the prepared soap-bleach product and allow to stand for a few minutes, then litely scrub with a scotchbrite pad, or if really stubborn, get them with a stiff toothbrush! (There...that'll teach em!)
The black specks are mildew spores that have formed a colony in the wood, so strip back all of the old finishes first, sand and get the shape and appearance perfect, then use the bleach or sprays to kill off the mildew. Allow to dry **thoroughly** (maybe use a hair dryer to hasten the process a bit), then apply that first coat of finish. I would not allow it to sit overnight without a first coating, or the spores may become active again.
Cheers! And a dipping of the ships flag halyards in your honor,
Larry
Larry DeMers wrote:
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Is Hi-Lex similar to Clorox?
Yup, Hi-Lex, Clorox and Bleach are the same thing. I think Hi Lex is a midwestern thing..but any of the bleach liquids should be the same.
Now caution here, with mixing soaps and bleach. There are combinations that work, but others that can be a problem breathing..Phosgene gas is a byproduct, and that is nasty.
It's best to just get the prepared concoctions from the grocery stores. Clorox makes one that includes soap, and Lysol makes one with clorox in it, and it is advertised in large letters on the container. They will be in the same area as the regular Lysol products are in. Also there is another product called Tackle that is put out by Clorox, which is a soap and clorox combo..one of these has to be in your area stores.
Heh, sinking the boat is not an option here, so maybe a controlled or diluted amount of the 'HiLex Deck and Wood Cleaner' would be a good starting point, then increase strength as you see the need.
We have mixed Boat/US Boat Soap and clorox for cleaning of deck stains..and that was like 1/2 cup to a gallon of water and soap mixed. This was used outdoors only. My wife Jan said that for inside use, she just took a rag dipped in clorox and water 50-50, and dabbed it on the mildew stained areas, and they disappeared in under 30 sec. Rinse with a cloth fairly wet with warm water, and then blot dry with paper towels. Use a hair dryer to get it dry if that works for your situation..
Oh, and she warns to wear gloves or you will stink like clorox for a day.
Hope this helps.
Larry
demes@sgi.com
Now caution here, with mixing soaps and bleach. There are combinations that work, but others that can be a problem breathing..Phosgene gas is a byproduct, and that is nasty.
It's best to just get the prepared concoctions from the grocery stores. Clorox makes one that includes soap, and Lysol makes one with clorox in it, and it is advertised in large letters on the container. They will be in the same area as the regular Lysol products are in. Also there is another product called Tackle that is put out by Clorox, which is a soap and clorox combo..one of these has to be in your area stores.
Heh, sinking the boat is not an option here, so maybe a controlled or diluted amount of the 'HiLex Deck and Wood Cleaner' would be a good starting point, then increase strength as you see the need.
We have mixed Boat/US Boat Soap and clorox for cleaning of deck stains..and that was like 1/2 cup to a gallon of water and soap mixed. This was used outdoors only. My wife Jan said that for inside use, she just took a rag dipped in clorox and water 50-50, and dabbed it on the mildew stained areas, and they disappeared in under 30 sec. Rinse with a cloth fairly wet with warm water, and then blot dry with paper towels. Use a hair dryer to get it dry if that works for your situation..
Oh, and she warns to wear gloves or you will stink like clorox for a day.
Hope this helps.
Larry
Catherine Monaghan wrote: Larry,
I've never heard of Hi-Lex -- never seen it in the stores in our area. I searched for it on the internet (of course) and it looks like it is regular laundry bleach.
<a href="http://www.hilex.com/">http://www.hilex.com/</a>
I also noticed that they also have a product called Hi-Lex Deck & Wood Cleaner. I wonder if that would do the trick (if only I could find it around here). But if it's anything like the teak cleaners, it will required sinking the boat in order to rinse the stuff off.
Do you think I could make my own concoction of Clorox (or store brand) bleach and soap instead? What kind of soap do you mix it with -- dishwashing liquid, liquid laundry soap? Maybe I'll be able to find the 409.
Thanks,
Cathy
Larry DeMers wrote: Catherine,
Yes, it would work fine. We did this every time we oiled the interior (prior to using satin varnish on the interior last spring). As I said before, the trick with using hilex is getting the stuff off, because if you don't it will eat the varnish from the backside out. Try the Hilex-Soap mixes in the spray bottle, apply a good dose in the area to be lightened. I have found that rubbing with some bronze wool or the Scotchlite pad to work the bleach into the grain a bit, works well IF the oil is off the surface of the wood (it will stop penetration otherwise).
Leave it on for 5 minutes, wipe off and see what you have to work with. If the spray does not do the trick, then I would try the hilex at 50% mix with water, applied with a sponge (it will eat away at most spray bottles..if the spray nozzle is colored plastic, the color will come right off, so the spray bottle may not work in this application).
Caution: This stuff will redecorate your clothes anywhere it touches..there is nothing you can do to remove the effect either..so wear some oldies but goodies for this work. Aso watch for splashes on carpeting, curtains..your dog...;^) Next to battery acid holes in my jeans, it is the most frequently seen evidence that we are actually working on DeLaMer!
Cheers and good refinishing! You will love it.
LarryCatherine Monaghan wrote: Larry,
I am in the process of refinishing the interior teak on Realization. It is an oiled finish not varnish or polyurethane. I've already cleaned it with Boatlife Kreme Teak Cleaner which has removed the oil from the wood. It has also lightened it a bit but it would be nice if I could get it a bit lighter. I am reluctant to use any of the two-part teak cleaners (they all seem to be for use on exterior teak where you can rinse it with gallons of water). Do you think I could use your procedure on the interior teak?
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
demes@sgi.com
-
h meyrick
Re: Is Hi-Lex similar to Clorox?
hi!... interior teak refinishing is a project on my to-do list. so let me ask you, i have pale discolorations around the bottom of the sliding-door cabinet under the companionway, (which i imagine is due to water coming in). wood is unvarnished, just (sporadically) oiled by the previuos owner. i am leaning towards satin varnish for the interior, but i don't want to seal in any stains or watermarks. suggestions?
thanks, huw
hmeyrick@ameritech.net
thanks, huw
hmeyrick@ameritech.net
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Is Hi-Lex similar to Clorox?
Huw,
I wonder if those sliding doors can be removed by lifting them out of the bottom track, and then pulling thebottom forward so they drop out of the top track. Then you could just resand them and refinish..easily. Otherwise, the track gets to be an issue in getting in the way. A discoloration at the base of those doors may be just a poor stain job too. Ours are like that at the extremes of the doors. We saw this when the door stop came off, allowing the door to move past the point where it was supposed to stop at and revealing that they did finish these doors installed in the cabinetry.
Regardless, I would probably try to match the main door color with a stain from the hardware store..they may be able to mix the stain color to your specs even. Apply the stain only to the area that is too lite, then allow to dry well, and then satin varnish it all.
It would be best if you could remove the door completely though.
You will love the satin varnish. We did our entire interior with three coats now, and the wood is hand rubbed smooth, and lustrous..not glossy. THe nice thing is the reduction in mildew pockets down low in the boat. Thise spores like to catch in the grain of the teak and grow there. When varnished, the surface is too smooth for the critters to land and hold..so the problem is lessened. Lastly, the varnish we used is a water soluable satin varnish made by Valspar. The advantage is there is no odor to speak of, and it dries tack free in 20 minutes. Valspar is made here in Minn. and I have used their products on various boats for 30 years..good quality if you can find it in your area.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
I wonder if those sliding doors can be removed by lifting them out of the bottom track, and then pulling thebottom forward so they drop out of the top track. Then you could just resand them and refinish..easily. Otherwise, the track gets to be an issue in getting in the way. A discoloration at the base of those doors may be just a poor stain job too. Ours are like that at the extremes of the doors. We saw this when the door stop came off, allowing the door to move past the point where it was supposed to stop at and revealing that they did finish these doors installed in the cabinetry.
Regardless, I would probably try to match the main door color with a stain from the hardware store..they may be able to mix the stain color to your specs even. Apply the stain only to the area that is too lite, then allow to dry well, and then satin varnish it all.
It would be best if you could remove the door completely though.
You will love the satin varnish. We did our entire interior with three coats now, and the wood is hand rubbed smooth, and lustrous..not glossy. THe nice thing is the reduction in mildew pockets down low in the boat. Thise spores like to catch in the grain of the teak and grow there. When varnished, the surface is too smooth for the critters to land and hold..so the problem is lessened. Lastly, the varnish we used is a water soluable satin varnish made by Valspar. The advantage is there is no odor to speak of, and it dries tack free in 20 minutes. Valspar is made here in Minn. and I have used their products on various boats for 30 years..good quality if you can find it in your area.
Cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
h meyrick wrote: hi!... interior teak refinishing is a project on my to-do list. so let me ask you, i have pale discolorations around the bottom of the sliding-door cabinet under the companionway, (which i imagine is due to water coming in). wood is unvarnished, just (sporadically) oiled by the previuos owner. i am leaning towards satin varnish for the interior, but i don't want to seal in any stains or watermarks. suggestions?
thanks, huw
demers@sgi.com