Non-skid cracks on CD30 cockpit sole.

[Tom Johnston]

While checking out a CD30 cutter for possible buy, I noticed numerous cracks in the non-skid surface of the cockpit sole and a few other cracks in the non-skid surface on one side of the main deck. When I expressed concern about possible gelcoat cracking under the non-skid, I was told a previous surveyor had declared the cracks to be in the non-skid only and that the gelcoat underneath was not affected. The owner rejected a request to scrape away a small sample area (1/2")of the nonskid to eyeball the gelcoat underneath, although he would permit it as part of a marine survey. Since serious gelcoat cracks would be a deal stopper for me, I'm reluctant to shell out the bucks for a marine survey that may lead to a dead end. Soooo, I need some advice from some of you really experienced CD folks. Has anyone experienced cracks in the nonskid that didn't involve gelcoat cracking also. Any thoughts about seriousness of gelcoat cracks and cost to repair? Would appreciate any other thoughts and opinions on the subject. It's an otherwise nice boat that I would like to make a deal on. Thanks in advance for everyone's help.



tjsan@atlantic.net

[Ron Musk]

While checking out a CD30 cutter for possible buy, I noticed numerous cracks in the non-skid surface of the cockpit sole and a few other cracks in the non-skid surface on one side of the main deck. When I expressed concern about possible gelcoat cracking under the non-skid, I was told a previous surveyor had declared the cracks to be in the non-skid only and that the gelcoat underneath was not affected. The owner rejected a request to scrape away a small sample area (1/2")of the nonskid to eyeball the gelcoat underneath, although he would permit it as part of a marine survey. Since serious gelcoat cracks would be a deal stopper for me, I'm reluctant to shell out the bucks for a marine survey that may lead to a dead end. Soooo, I need some advice from some of you really experienced CD folks. Has anyone experienced cracks in the nonskid that didn't involve gelcoat cracking also. Any thoughts about seriousness of gelcoat cracks and cost to repair? Would appreciate any other thoughts and opinions on the subject. It's an otherwise nice boat that I would like to make a deal on. Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

You are rightly concerned.I would get someone that has a moisture meter(usually done as part of a survey).Those cracks may be harbingers
indicating water penetration into the core,and while not impossible to correct it can add significant cost.Could be a bargining tool.If just gelcoat cracks and not into the core it is easier and less costly to repair but has to be done to prevent further problems.This is common with Cape Dories.Best way to determine extent of trouble is to drill
1/8" hole 3/8" deep into core,check residue (sawdust).Is it wet ? it can be dried. is it black ? it is rotted and needs replacement.Moisture meter would be less envasive.If you could borrow or rent one it would be money saved over getting a survey right off the bat.Good luck,and don't let a few cracks scare you away from an otherwise good boat.Use them to get a better price.

Ron Musk
s/v"R&R"
CD 30 #42



ccerre@massed.net

[Walt Bilofsky]

My CD 30 powerboat had gelcoat cracks in stress points in the cockpit - radiating out from the corners of hatches, and from the base of the ladder - and also in some of the cockpit corners. I had always assumed it was due to the Cape Dory thick gelcoat.

When a yard said they got varying moisture meter readings, I had a fiberglass guy redo the cockpit gelcoat. The nonskid was wearing off, anyway. He said that when he ground the cracks out, he found voids in the fiberglass where the cracks were. I never saw it myself but he did a really good job on the gelcoat and I tend to credit what he said. The good news is that if that was the cause, they should not recur.

Anyway, bottom line is to put a moisture meter on it. If it is localized, perhaps you can deduct the cost to repair from your offer.



bilofsky@toolworks.com

[Ron Musk]

My CD 30 powerboat had gelcoat cracks in stress points in the cockpit - radiating out from the corners of hatches, and from the base of the ladder - and also in some of the cockpit corners. I had always assumed it was due to the Cape Dory thick gelcoat.

When a yard said they got varying moisture meter readings, I had a fiberglass guy redo the cockpit gelcoat. The nonskid was wearing off, anyway. He said that when he ground the cracks out, he found voids in the fiberglass where the cracks were. I never saw it myself but he did a really good job on the gelcoat and I tend to credit what he said. The good news is that if that was the cause, they should not recur.

Anyway, bottom line is to put a moisture meter on it. If it is localized, perhaps you can deduct the cost to repair from your offer.

In restoring our 1977 30' cutter we are astonished at the number and size of the many voids in the layup,especially at corners and turns.Cracks and impact soon open the door for water to get into the mat and eventually the core.We have also noticed where we have opened the skin dry layups- areas where not enough resin was incorpoated into various layers of mat and roving so it really wasn't bonded.I guess you really can't tell how careful they were until you cut one open and repair what are more often then not sloppy manufacturing practices.
Ron Musk
s/v"R&R"
CD30 #42



ccerre@massed.net

[Barry]

This was a biggie for me, too. I bought an '81 CD33 several years ago, it had a lot of very short cracks in the gelcoat all over the nonskid. I hired 2 surveyors to check it out, they assured me it was only cosmetic, not to worry (they actually took samples of the gelcoat). When I moved the boat to the frozen North (from the Chesbay) the cracks went nuts - grew in every direction. They were finally so numerous and unsightly I was forced to act. I took the boat to yet another surveyor and boat yard for an estimate and opinion on the extent of any real damage -- there was none, the deck was dry as a bone -- then an estimate on a cosmetic fix.

The estimate was more shocking than the unsightly cracks, I decided to do the work myself. I found the work "easy" to do, it was just a lot more effort than I thought. My results are perfect, you'd never know the deck was touched. But what I found when I GROUND away my entire deck was that the gelcoat in some areas was a 1/4 inch thick, and some cracks did go all the way thru the nonskid into the gelcoat layer below (where it overlapped), but no water got to the core.

Hope this helps.

Barry

[Tom J.]

Barry,
Sounds like you ground the gelcoat completely off the deck area affected by the cracks. From my limited research on cracks, I thought that grooving the cracks down to the fiberglass and then filling the grooves was the advertised method of repair. Did you take the more radical approach due to the extensive cracking you described, or was that the method recommended by the folks who gave you the eyeopening estimate?

I've got to admit this subject scares the heck out of me, but ignoring it won't make it go away. Gelcoat repair is a subject I'm totally unfamiliar with. I'd hate to start a job on my own and screw up the looks of the boat. It's like preforming radical surgery on a loved one without a medical degree. My hat's off to all you folks with the guts to dive right into any job.
TJ



tjsan@atlantic.net

[Barry]

I got Radical, alright. Actually I did groove out all of the cracks with a Dremel tool. I didn't go all the way to the glass with all of them, but I did try to get to bottom of each crack -- in some cases the gelcoat was 1/4 inch thick or more . After I grooved them all out, I used a small model brush and coated each groove with epoxy, wicking it completely in and thru the crack/groove. Once that dried I filled each with thickened epoxy and faired it out. At this point I realized that I had all of these "smooth strips" criss-crossing my nonskid, and that I'd never be able to match the surface to the original nonskid.

I then went big: a belt sander with 80 grit paper. I sanded the entire nonskid portion of the deck completely smooth, filled the little nicks & dings, faired it, then went with a 2-part epoxy finish. I put down three coats of 2-part primer, followed by 2 coats of 2-part top finish with the micro-spheres non skid additives.

You'd never know that my deck was touched -- only if you brought her side-by-side to a boat that had not been worked on would you notice a slight difference in the color.

Barry

[Barry]

I would do it differently next time, though. I would start with the belt sander and get the entire non-skid smooth, then go for the groove & fill.

Barry

[Joe Valinoti]

I got Radical, alright. Actually I did groove out all of the cracks with a Dremel tool. I didn't go all the way to the glass with all of them, but I did try to get to bottom of each crack -- in some cases the gelcoat was 1/4 inch thick or more . After I grooved them all out, I used a small model brush and coated each groove with epoxy, wicking it completely in and thru the crack/groove. Once that dried I filled each with thickened epoxy and faired it out. At this point I realized that I had all of these "smooth strips" criss-crossing my nonskid, and that I'd never be able to match the surface to the original nonskid.

I then went big: a belt sander with 80 grit paper. I sanded the entire nonskid portion of the deck completely smooth, filled the little nicks & dings, faired it, then went with a 2-part epoxy finish. I put down three coats of 2-part primer, followed by 2 coats of 2-part top finish with the micro-spheres non skid additives.

You'd never know that my deck was touched -- only if you brought her side-by-side to a boat that had not been worked on would you notice a slight difference in the color.

Barry

Barry: What manufacturer and color did you use to finish your sole?
Joe



vwman@coastalnet.com

[Barry]

Barry

Barry: What manufacturer and color did you use to finish your sole?
Joe

Joe,
I used Interlux, Interthane Plus, 2 part LPU. The color is a sandy biege, but I don't remember the name of the color, Hatterus off white???

[Tom J.]

Barry,

Did the color match up well with the original non-skid color or did you have to repaint all the non-skid areas? TJ



tjsan@atlantic.net

[Barry]

I repainted the entire non-skid surface on the deck & cockpit sole; only the brown, the white nonskid on the cabin top was fine.

Barry

Barry,

Did the color match up well with the original non-skid color or did you have to repaint all the non-skid areas? TJ