Hello to all from Frozen Oklahoma
Well, Rhapsody "SHOULD" be out of the water this weekend (if the marina thaws). I will have to shorten my to do list in order to get her back in the water by the time our season begins. In that light I would like some input form other owners on a few questions.
1) how are topping lifts rigged. I do everything at the mast so I think the topping lift needs to terminate at the mast or at least the forward end of the boom. Currently the line for the lift just passes over a clevis pin at the mast head and down to a cleat on the mast. I want to basically keep the same arrangement, but want to add a block (if possible) at the mast head. Is this a good idea?
2) Wiring ??'s - I need to clean up the DC wiring on board Rhapsody. My initial thought was to glass/expoxy a piece of plywood in the port locker (forward) and them put some buss bars on the wood to act as a distribution "center". This would greatly reduce the amount of "mess" behind the factory panel. I have also thought about just expoxing small blocks of wood behind the factory panel and trying to clean up the wiring in that manner. Any suggestions?
3) Anchor light - does anyone have an idea for installing a mast head anchor light adn how to wire it? I dont want exposed wiring in the cabin and I cant see/find a way to snake the wire to the base of the mast. Ideas?
Thanks in advance and I now know how the northern brethern feel during layup...Ice/cold/winter sucks........
Thanks again
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
Winter Project ??'s
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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len
Re: Winter Project ??'s
bill
a block at the top of the mast for an all line topping lift is a very good idea and can be used as a spare main halyard in an emergency
it isn't hard to snake a wire down the mast, i have done it using fishing monomfilament with a little weight on the end,and then snagging it in the cabin with a hook made from a wire hanger
len
md.frel@nwh.org
a block at the top of the mast for an all line topping lift is a very good idea and can be used as a spare main halyard in an emergency
it isn't hard to snake a wire down the mast, i have done it using fishing monomfilament with a little weight on the end,and then snagging it in the cabin with a hook made from a wire hanger
len
md.frel@nwh.org
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Larry DeMers
Re: Winter Project ??'s
Howdy Oklahoma..greets from NW Wisc...also in the deeper-freezer!
Most of what you propose doing, we have done over the past 2 years, except for the topping lift, so lets go one at a time.
1. Topping Lift. We left the existing system as is because the mast is crowded enough, and we adjust the topping lift a few time s each season only. The existing system works ok, and is out of the way. So I am no help there..
2. WIRING: I rewired all of our CD30C last summer, added Heart Int'f. charging, breaker panels, LINK 2000 and LINK 10, Battery combiner etc..etc.. nearly $5k worth of gear.
I removed all factory wiring from the existing breaker panel, labeled all wires, then determined their function if it was not known by then. I added two 20 pole terminal blocks (holds 20 ckts each) and glassed them to the back area behind the breaker panel. It is close, easily gained access to, and protected so it is a good place to put things. These terminals were each labeled with a nuymber matching a schematic dwg. I made. Next I assembled the breaker panels into a single panel, added a S.S. hinge at it's bottom so that the panel will hinge down when opened, then mounted it to the boat, screwing into a backing block behind the fiberglass lip (oh, the opening for the new breaker panel needed a bit of fiberglass removed from the old hole where the breaker panel went. It worked out great!) Next the panel breakers and gauges were wired and neatly bundled together, so that the panel would still hinge downwards when needed to.
So the terminal blocks in back of the breaker panel serve as the distribution point. I woul dnot want to put the distribution point as far away as you are doing, because you then have to run heavier wire to that distribution point; the terminal blocks are occupying valuable stowage space, already at a premium onboard; and the terminals laying flat on a piece of wood offer good opportunity to get shorted out by an errant piece of metal, winch handle,e tc. thrown into that area of the locker. Electrical needs to be in one place to be gotten at quickly, when something is not working, and you need it now (happened to me a few times).
3. ANCHOR LIGHT.
I like being seen when we anchor out, as we do that 2-3 times a weekend, every weekend from April thru November. So I replaced our anchor light with a Hella anchor light, made for 50-60 ft. boats, It has a great fresnel lens on it, and the light is visible at 3+ miles, with no trouble. I use a 20W bulb instead of the usual 10w just for this reason. I bent an aluminum sheet into an L shape, drilled appropriate holes to mount the anchor light to the bracket, then used my Mast Mate to get to the top and drill out 3 more holes in the mast for the light bracket. I reran the 12vdc cable from the light down to the deck, connectorized it, then went through an access hole just in front of the mast. This hole is the same hole used by the other mast lights, VHF antenna etc, and is in the middle of the head ceiling, covered by a round teak plate. Our wires then go between the ceiling abd the deck off to the starboard side, just aft of the cabinet in the head, where it exits, bends around the bottom of the cabinet, and then runs back to the breaker panel via the wiring trough on the starboard side. Wire tied down, this installation worked nicely. I have photos of each step if interested.
Write if there is more to understand..;^)
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 #183
demers@sgi.com
Most of what you propose doing, we have done over the past 2 years, except for the topping lift, so lets go one at a time.
1. Topping Lift. We left the existing system as is because the mast is crowded enough, and we adjust the topping lift a few time s each season only. The existing system works ok, and is out of the way. So I am no help there..
2. WIRING: I rewired all of our CD30C last summer, added Heart Int'f. charging, breaker panels, LINK 2000 and LINK 10, Battery combiner etc..etc.. nearly $5k worth of gear.
I removed all factory wiring from the existing breaker panel, labeled all wires, then determined their function if it was not known by then. I added two 20 pole terminal blocks (holds 20 ckts each) and glassed them to the back area behind the breaker panel. It is close, easily gained access to, and protected so it is a good place to put things. These terminals were each labeled with a nuymber matching a schematic dwg. I made. Next I assembled the breaker panels into a single panel, added a S.S. hinge at it's bottom so that the panel will hinge down when opened, then mounted it to the boat, screwing into a backing block behind the fiberglass lip (oh, the opening for the new breaker panel needed a bit of fiberglass removed from the old hole where the breaker panel went. It worked out great!) Next the panel breakers and gauges were wired and neatly bundled together, so that the panel would still hinge downwards when needed to.
So the terminal blocks in back of the breaker panel serve as the distribution point. I woul dnot want to put the distribution point as far away as you are doing, because you then have to run heavier wire to that distribution point; the terminal blocks are occupying valuable stowage space, already at a premium onboard; and the terminals laying flat on a piece of wood offer good opportunity to get shorted out by an errant piece of metal, winch handle,e tc. thrown into that area of the locker. Electrical needs to be in one place to be gotten at quickly, when something is not working, and you need it now (happened to me a few times).
3. ANCHOR LIGHT.
I like being seen when we anchor out, as we do that 2-3 times a weekend, every weekend from April thru November. So I replaced our anchor light with a Hella anchor light, made for 50-60 ft. boats, It has a great fresnel lens on it, and the light is visible at 3+ miles, with no trouble. I use a 20W bulb instead of the usual 10w just for this reason. I bent an aluminum sheet into an L shape, drilled appropriate holes to mount the anchor light to the bracket, then used my Mast Mate to get to the top and drill out 3 more holes in the mast for the light bracket. I reran the 12vdc cable from the light down to the deck, connectorized it, then went through an access hole just in front of the mast. This hole is the same hole used by the other mast lights, VHF antenna etc, and is in the middle of the head ceiling, covered by a round teak plate. Our wires then go between the ceiling abd the deck off to the starboard side, just aft of the cabinet in the head, where it exits, bends around the bottom of the cabinet, and then runs back to the breaker panel via the wiring trough on the starboard side. Wire tied down, this installation worked nicely. I have photos of each step if interested.
Write if there is more to understand..;^)
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 #183
Bill wrote: Hello to all from Frozen Oklahoma
Well, Rhapsody "SHOULD" be out of the water this weekend (if the marina thaws). I will have to shorten my to do list in order to get her back in the water by the time our season begins. In that light I would like some input form other owners on a few questions.
1) how are topping lifts rigged. I do everything at the mast so I think the topping lift needs to terminate at the mast or at least the forward end of the boom. Currently the line for the lift just passes over a clevis pin at the mast head and down to a cleat on the mast. I want to basically keep the same arrangement, but want to add a block (if possible) at the mast head. Is this a good idea?
2) Wiring ??'s - I need to clean up the DC wiring on board Rhapsody. My initial thought was to glass/expoxy a piece of plywood in the port locker (forward) and them put some buss bars on the wood to act as a distribution "center". This would greatly reduce the amount of "mess" behind the factory panel. I have also thought about just expoxing small blocks of wood behind the factory panel and trying to clean up the wiring in that manner. Any suggestions?
3) Anchor light - does anyone have an idea for installing a mast head anchor light adn how to wire it? I dont want exposed wiring in the cabin and I cant see/find a way to snake the wire to the base of the mast. Ideas?
Thanks in advance and I now know how the northern brethern feel during layup...Ice/cold/winter sucks........
Thanks again
Bill
demers@sgi.com
-
John Martin
Re: Winter Project ??'s
1) We are using a rigid boom vang (Garhaur) so we do not need a topping lift. If you are going to use a halyard type topping lift, consider using a purchase 2:1 or 3:1 to help lift the boom.
2) Re-wiring DC is my next major project. I am considering adding a frame/box between the DC panel and the fiberglas lining. And/or putting a distribution panel somewhere near the DC panel?
3) If I understand the question? How to get a wire from the masthead down to the step, on the inside of the mast, and not un-step the mast? Try adding very small chain to mono-filiment. use exsisting holes or drill holes at top and bottom of mast.
Good Luck,
John Martin
CD28 #346 Intrepid
johnmartin55@hotmail.com
2) Re-wiring DC is my next major project. I am considering adding a frame/box between the DC panel and the fiberglas lining. And/or putting a distribution panel somewhere near the DC panel?
3) If I understand the question? How to get a wire from the masthead down to the step, on the inside of the mast, and not un-step the mast? Try adding very small chain to mono-filiment. use exsisting holes or drill holes at top and bottom of mast.
Good Luck,
John Martin
CD28 #346 Intrepid
Bill wrote: Hello to all from Frozen Oklahoma
Well, Rhapsody "SHOULD" be out of the water this weekend (if the marina thaws). I will have to shorten my to do list in order to get her back in the water by the time our season begins. In that light I would like some input form other owners on a few questions.
1) how are topping lifts rigged. I do everything at the mast so I think the topping lift needs to terminate at the mast or at least the forward end of the boom. Currently the line for the lift just passes over a clevis pin at the mast head and down to a cleat on the mast. I want to basically keep the same arrangement, but want to add a block (if possible) at the mast head. Is this a good idea?
2) Wiring ??'s - I need to clean up the DC wiring on board Rhapsody. My initial thought was to glass/expoxy a piece of plywood in the port locker (forward) and them put some buss bars on the wood to act as a distribution "center". This would greatly reduce the amount of "mess" behind the factory panel. I have also thought about just expoxing small blocks of wood behind the factory panel and trying to clean up the wiring in that manner. Any suggestions?
3) Anchor light - does anyone have an idea for installing a mast head anchor light adn how to wire it? I dont want exposed wiring in the cabin and I cant see/find a way to snake the wire to the base of the mast. Ideas?
Thanks in advance and I now know how the northern brethern feel during layup...Ice/cold/winter sucks........
Thanks again
Bill
johnmartin55@hotmail.com
-
Bill
Re: Winter Project ??'s
<b>Clarification:</B> I am not concerned about running the wire down the mast, its getting the hot wire from the distribution panel to the base of the mast without it being visible in the salon.....sorry for the lack of clarity.Bill wrote: 3) Anchor light - does anyone have an idea for installing a mast head anchor light adn how to wire it? I dont want exposed wiring in the cabin and I cant see/find a way to snake the wire to the base of the mast. Ideas?
Thanks for the replys.
Bill
cd25d@rhapsodysails.com
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Larry DeMers
Re: Winter Project ??'s
Along the sides of the cabin, there is a wiring tray which you would use to string the Anchor Light & it's Ground (always send the devices ground along with the hot wire..using duplex wire) in. This tray carries thru to the head area, with appropriate cutouts in the bulkhead for wiring to go through. Once into the head area, bring the wire up to the overhead, using a small access hole drilled in the ceiling material, which will help you get access to the area betweent he overhead and the coach roof. Next fish this wire into the round cutout that you have in the ceiling material (mine has a 7 in. round teak piece covering the hole up to the mast from the head area.
That's how it is on my CD30..'cause I just replaced a lot of that wiring myself.
cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DelaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
That's how it is on my CD30..'cause I just replaced a lot of that wiring myself.
cheers!
Larry DeMers
s/v DelaMer
Cape Dory 30
Bill wrote:<b>Clarification:</B> I am not concerned about running the wire down the mast, its getting the hot wire from the distribution panel to the base of the mast without it being visible in the salon.....sorry for the lack of clarity.Bill wrote: 3) Anchor light - does anyone have an idea for installing a mast head anchor light adn how to wire it? I dont want exposed wiring in the cabin and I cant see/find a way to snake the wire to the base of the mast. Ideas?
Thanks for the replys.
Bill
demers@sgi.com
-
Bob Luby
Re: Winter Project ??'s
Welcome to Winter!
On my 25D the VHF and mast wiring runs along the port side of the cabin, and runs to the center of the overhead. Near the compression post you may find a round cover. remove it and you will find the wires, which go up through the core to the deck.
Carefully identify any wires you want to cut, because a chainplate grounding wire also runs on the port side, and you don't want to cut it.
If you want to replace or run new wires through the mast you will either have to use the existing wires as messengers, or pull the mast, because Cape Dory stuffed styrofoam blocks into the mast to keep the wires from banging around. These blocks will interfere with any attempt to drop a weight down from the top unless they are removed. To remove the blocks, pull the mast, remove the masthead fitting, and press some PVC pipe through the mast, pushing the blocks ahead of the pipe. 3 8 ft lengths will do the trick. Don't forget the joints.
Once the blocks are out, you will either have to use the pipes to push the blocks back in, because the wires will bang around otherwise, or you can do what I did, run the wires through the pipes with extra messenger lines, and secure the pipes to the mast wall with pop rivets. You can use the lines if you want to run more wires in the future.
YMMV of course.
Rluby@aol.com
On my 25D the VHF and mast wiring runs along the port side of the cabin, and runs to the center of the overhead. Near the compression post you may find a round cover. remove it and you will find the wires, which go up through the core to the deck.
Carefully identify any wires you want to cut, because a chainplate grounding wire also runs on the port side, and you don't want to cut it.
If you want to replace or run new wires through the mast you will either have to use the existing wires as messengers, or pull the mast, because Cape Dory stuffed styrofoam blocks into the mast to keep the wires from banging around. These blocks will interfere with any attempt to drop a weight down from the top unless they are removed. To remove the blocks, pull the mast, remove the masthead fitting, and press some PVC pipe through the mast, pushing the blocks ahead of the pipe. 3 8 ft lengths will do the trick. Don't forget the joints.
Once the blocks are out, you will either have to use the pipes to push the blocks back in, because the wires will bang around otherwise, or you can do what I did, run the wires through the pipes with extra messenger lines, and secure the pipes to the mast wall with pop rivets. You can use the lines if you want to run more wires in the future.
YMMV of course.
Rluby@aol.com