Hello and Happy New Year!, all fellow Cape Dory owners.
Thanks to everyone for the input from my last message in November.
Well, I started my blister (pox) repair in November. All the bottom paint is removed and I have about one third of the gelcoat off of one side. My plan was to remove all gelcoat, dry over the winter and early spring and apply Interlux system once dry.
I have been doing some more research on blister repair and thought I would run some things by you all and see what you think.
1.) I read some info written by David Pascoe (yachtsurvey.com). According to him I should consider removing the skin out mat (1st layer of laminate) from the bottom. Because of the voids and unsaturated fiberglass in this layer the blisters will re-occur. He goes on to say that the skin out layer does not have to be replaced once removed, just apply the barrier coat.
2.) I called the surveyor that surveyed our boat before we bought it. They said that from there experience I would be lucky to get 3-4 years out of the bottom if I just removed the gelcoat and applied the Interlux system. They recommend removing skin out layer also but, re-laminating, then apply interlux system.
3.) I called an outfit out of Annapolis, MD. They specialize in gelcoat removal and blister repair. He says I can get 3-6 years out of the bottom with gelcoat stripping and Interlux system. But, he also recommends removing skin out layer and re-laminating for a permanent fix. He said that he can peel the entire bottom for me in about 4 hours for $600.00 plus travel time. He said that I didn't even have to remove the bottom paint. He will re-laminate and apply filler on site for another $1500.00.
So, I'm at the crossroads, what do I do? I've logged in ~75 hours so far. I figure at the rate I'm going I have a good 15 more days of removing gelcoat. That's 7or 8 weekends (weather permitting). I'm seriously considering hiring this guy to at least peel the bottom.
What do you think? Any suggestions or recommendations woud be appriciated.
Thank you all,
Rich ("Rambunctious")
treehouse@erols.com
Intrepid 9M (Blister repair update)
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Kurt
Re: Intrepid 9M (Blister repair update)
I suggest you continue to remove all the gelcoat and let the hull air dry as long as possible. Then heavily coat the bottom with a pure epoxy resin such as WEST or System3. The Interlux products contain drying solvents (to make application easier) and are not as waterproof as pure epoxy. As I understand it, nothing is totally waterproof but the epoxy will slow the osmotic absorbtion of water molecules to the point where the underlying laminate can effectively handle and dissipate said molecules without forming pockets of moisture (blisters).
A product that's superior to epoxy is vinyester resin but it's allegedly trickier to use. 3M sold a product line based on vinyl ester resin but has since dropped it from their catalog. It was too expensive to handle the high volume/cost of telephone calls they received from consumers trying to use the stuff!
Finally, I do not understand why the pros you spoke to feel a permanent job can be had only with the use of additional cloth being laminated onto the hull....just be certain to use lots of epoxy and apply it carefully and evenly.
I put 4 gallons of resin on a CD26 in the spring of 1994 or 95 and haven't seen a blister since...this was the 2nd boat I repaired.
kjlgpw@aol.com
A product that's superior to epoxy is vinyester resin but it's allegedly trickier to use. 3M sold a product line based on vinyl ester resin but has since dropped it from their catalog. It was too expensive to handle the high volume/cost of telephone calls they received from consumers trying to use the stuff!
Finally, I do not understand why the pros you spoke to feel a permanent job can be had only with the use of additional cloth being laminated onto the hull....just be certain to use lots of epoxy and apply it carefully and evenly.
I put 4 gallons of resin on a CD26 in the spring of 1994 or 95 and haven't seen a blister since...this was the 2nd boat I repaired.
kjlgpw@aol.com
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sloopjohnl
Re: Intrepid 9M (Blister repair update)
dittoes Kurt.
my typhoon was covered with small blisters (pox). stripped all the gelcoat, let dry two months(april-may) with some help from heat lamps, put on 3.5 gallons west system epoxy with final two coats of barrier coat, two coats of bottom paint and nary a blister in ten seasons.
my typhoon was covered with small blisters (pox). stripped all the gelcoat, let dry two months(april-may) with some help from heat lamps, put on 3.5 gallons west system epoxy with final two coats of barrier coat, two coats of bottom paint and nary a blister in ten seasons.
Kurt wrote: I suggest you continue to remove all the gelcoat and let the hull air dry as long as possible. Then heavily coat the bottom with a pure epoxy resin such as WEST or System3. The Interlux products contain drying solvents (to make application easier) and are not as waterproof as pure epoxy. As I understand it, nothing is totally waterproof but the epoxy will slow the osmotic absorbtion of water molecules to the point where the underlying laminate can effectively handle and dissipate said molecules without forming pockets of moisture (blisters).
A product that's superior to epoxy is vinyester resin but it's allegedly trickier to use. 3M sold a product line based on vinyl ester resin but has since dropped it from their catalog. It was too expensive to handle the high volume/cost of telephone calls they received from consumers trying to use the stuff!
Finally, I do not understand why the pros you spoke to feel a permanent job can be had only with the use of additional cloth being laminated onto the hull....just be certain to use lots of epoxy and apply it carefully and evenly.
I put 4 gallons of resin on a CD26 in the spring of 1994 or 95 and haven't seen a blister since...this was the 2nd boat I repaired.