I know there is a wealth of knowledge, and also every subject has been covered on this site. BUT.... does anyone have a straightforward outline on the top to bottom winterizing of the CD 30. It is my first wintering up..... suggestions.....books.....websites?
Thanks so much you folks have the BEST website and are the most helpful people!!!!!
Thanks
Easy outline for wintrizing a CD 30 ?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Larry DeMers
Re: Easy outline for wintrizing a CD 30 ?
John,
I have owned our CD30 DeLaMer for 11 years now, and have winterized her for all of the 11 years as follows without mishap: Note, this work is done on a raw water cooled MD7B.
I find out when the boat will be pulled, and 2 hours ahead of time, we move to a location that is near the pull-out site, and where we would be able to move the boat as needed, with dock lines rather than the engine.
We secure the boat to the dock and pilings, then start the engine, place it in gear, and let her run for 1 hour at about 1800 rpm. The reasoning here is that the boat is sitting in 40 degree water, which tends to keep the thermostat from opening for quite a while. For this winterization to work properly, the thermostat must be open or
removed.
Next we pull the water intake hose at the seacock (while the engine is running) and put it into an ice cream bucket full of -50 deg. RV type antifreeze (-100 deg. RV
type antifreeze is also available, but I have not needed it). We then suck up 3 gallons of UNDILUTED Rv type antifreeze. (the reasoning here is that the antifreeze is damn cheap while a rebuilt or new engine is damn expensive..better to error on the conservative side in this case). After the 3 gallons are sucked up, the engine is shut down, fuel is shut off, the engine is cleaned and we are done for the season. Record the engine hours in the log, and that's it.
Under no circumstances would I recommend premixing water into the antifreeze before putting it into the engine...unless you were using the auto type antifreeze, which is poisonous and unnecessary and something that you really do not want to put into the water. It's also quite expensive by comparison to the RV type antifreeze.
Next, we winterize the bilge pumps (2), by putting in 3 gallons of antifreeze into the bilge, and pumping that through the manual pump until gone, then we add another 2 to the bilge and pump that through the automatic pump, until gone.
The water tanks are next, and for this we empty both tanks and then do any cleaning if it is necesary. Then we put in 1 gallon of Rv antifreeze in each tank. Pump the galley and head water pumps until pink antifreeze shows in each. Then switch to the oposite water tank, and pump most of that antifreeze out of the tank (this will gaurantee that the antifrereze reaches all of the hose and distribution valving.
The Head is last. We pump clear water through the system for 1-2 minutes, then get the holding tank pumped out, rinsed and pumped clean again. Next, 1/2 gallon of antifreeze is added to the toilet, and pumped through to the holding tank, while the pumps valve is in the "dry" position. Next, disconnect the water intake fitting, and put it into an ice cream bucket full of antifreeze. Put the pump valve in the "wet position", and pump all of the antifreeeze up and through the system. Replace the hose and retighten the hose clamps (2).
All in all , I go through 11 gallons of antifreeze while winterizing the boat. 3 for the engine, 5 for the automatic and manual bilge pumps and and protecting the bilge over winter (in case rain water should make it's way down there, I don't want to have freezing problems), 2 for the water holding tanks, and 1 for the head
and it's holding tank.
Our temps reach -45deg f yearly, as recorded by a little digital thermometer (with memory) in the boat. This procedure has worked perfectly every year, with no freezing damage to the boat or it's equipment. The whole procedure can be completed in an easy 3 hours or so.
Write me if you have any additional questions.
Regards, and have a good winter,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Sailing Lake Superior~~~~~
demers@sgi.com
I have owned our CD30 DeLaMer for 11 years now, and have winterized her for all of the 11 years as follows without mishap: Note, this work is done on a raw water cooled MD7B.
I find out when the boat will be pulled, and 2 hours ahead of time, we move to a location that is near the pull-out site, and where we would be able to move the boat as needed, with dock lines rather than the engine.
We secure the boat to the dock and pilings, then start the engine, place it in gear, and let her run for 1 hour at about 1800 rpm. The reasoning here is that the boat is sitting in 40 degree water, which tends to keep the thermostat from opening for quite a while. For this winterization to work properly, the thermostat must be open or
removed.
Next we pull the water intake hose at the seacock (while the engine is running) and put it into an ice cream bucket full of -50 deg. RV type antifreeze (-100 deg. RV
type antifreeze is also available, but I have not needed it). We then suck up 3 gallons of UNDILUTED Rv type antifreeze. (the reasoning here is that the antifreeze is damn cheap while a rebuilt or new engine is damn expensive..better to error on the conservative side in this case). After the 3 gallons are sucked up, the engine is shut down, fuel is shut off, the engine is cleaned and we are done for the season. Record the engine hours in the log, and that's it.
Under no circumstances would I recommend premixing water into the antifreeze before putting it into the engine...unless you were using the auto type antifreeze, which is poisonous and unnecessary and something that you really do not want to put into the water. It's also quite expensive by comparison to the RV type antifreeze.
Next, we winterize the bilge pumps (2), by putting in 3 gallons of antifreeze into the bilge, and pumping that through the manual pump until gone, then we add another 2 to the bilge and pump that through the automatic pump, until gone.
The water tanks are next, and for this we empty both tanks and then do any cleaning if it is necesary. Then we put in 1 gallon of Rv antifreeze in each tank. Pump the galley and head water pumps until pink antifreeze shows in each. Then switch to the oposite water tank, and pump most of that antifreeze out of the tank (this will gaurantee that the antifrereze reaches all of the hose and distribution valving.
The Head is last. We pump clear water through the system for 1-2 minutes, then get the holding tank pumped out, rinsed and pumped clean again. Next, 1/2 gallon of antifreeze is added to the toilet, and pumped through to the holding tank, while the pumps valve is in the "dry" position. Next, disconnect the water intake fitting, and put it into an ice cream bucket full of antifreeze. Put the pump valve in the "wet position", and pump all of the antifreeeze up and through the system. Replace the hose and retighten the hose clamps (2).
All in all , I go through 11 gallons of antifreeze while winterizing the boat. 3 for the engine, 5 for the automatic and manual bilge pumps and and protecting the bilge over winter (in case rain water should make it's way down there, I don't want to have freezing problems), 2 for the water holding tanks, and 1 for the head
and it's holding tank.
Our temps reach -45deg f yearly, as recorded by a little digital thermometer (with memory) in the boat. This procedure has worked perfectly every year, with no freezing damage to the boat or it's equipment. The whole procedure can be completed in an easy 3 hours or so.
Write me if you have any additional questions.
Regards, and have a good winter,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Sailing Lake Superior~~~~~
John Johnson wrote: I know there is a wealth of knowledge, and also every subject has been covered on this site. BUT.... does anyone have a straightforward outline on the top to bottom winterizing of the CD 30. It is my first wintering up..... suggestions.....books.....websites?
Thanks so much you folks have the BEST website and are the most helpful people!!!!!
Thanks
demers@sgi.com