HELP!!! I need help in repairing the froedeck of my CD25 (1975). MY first thought is to tap in from the underside and hope to drain any moisture out. Then I wanted to laminate a piece of 3/8" marine ply to the underside (above the vee berth) to act as a stiffner. Am I all wet??? Any ideas? Any suggestions short of giving it over to the professionals to do.
Paul
Puffin II
s/n# 318
New Rochelle, NY
saltzman@aecom.yu.edu or saltzma@ibm.net
spongy foredeck
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Dana Arenius
Re: spongy foredeck
Paul,
Sorry to hear about the deck. I hope it is not a large area. This area is generally cored with balsa. And although the balsa is orientated with the end grains facing up, it can spread pretty fast.
You'll need to provide a cover from the weather over that section right away to limit the damage as best as you can.
Your thought of attacking the problem from below is probably the best approach in the long run of the job and how it will look for cosmetic reasons. It is easier to dress-up the entire glass than 'mess-in" with the deck.
Generally, I think the fiberglass laminate layer under the affected balsa core area will have to be cut out. The wet balsa is then removed and the area is dried.
A new core material is cut and fitted (from underneath) and the area is reglassed. Cosmetically, I think this is the best best. Of course, the source of the moisture (pulpit beding, etc.) must also be found and repaired.
There are a number of good books which cover this type of repair if you want to handle it yourself.
Dana
darenius@aol.com
Sorry to hear about the deck. I hope it is not a large area. This area is generally cored with balsa. And although the balsa is orientated with the end grains facing up, it can spread pretty fast.
You'll need to provide a cover from the weather over that section right away to limit the damage as best as you can.
Your thought of attacking the problem from below is probably the best approach in the long run of the job and how it will look for cosmetic reasons. It is easier to dress-up the entire glass than 'mess-in" with the deck.
Generally, I think the fiberglass laminate layer under the affected balsa core area will have to be cut out. The wet balsa is then removed and the area is dried.
A new core material is cut and fitted (from underneath) and the area is reglassed. Cosmetically, I think this is the best best. Of course, the source of the moisture (pulpit beding, etc.) must also be found and repaired.
There are a number of good books which cover this type of repair if you want to handle it yourself.
Dana
darenius@aol.com
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John Lucas
Re: spongy foredeck
Get a West System Book on boat repair. The primary technique is to drill the deck and then put epoxy in the holes.Paul Saltzman wrote: HELP!!! I need help in repairing the froedeck of my CD25 (1975). MY first thought is to tap in from the underside and hope to drain any moisture out. Then I wanted to laminate a piece of 3/8" marine ply to the underside (above the vee berth) to act as a stiffner. Am I all wet??? Any ideas? Any suggestions short of giving it over to the professionals to do.
Paul
Puffin II
s/n# 318
Paul Saltzman wrote: New Rochelle, NY
CJLUCAS@CONCENTRIC.NET
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Mark Slifko
cored foredeck repair
I repaired the aft deck using the same procedure you outlined. The only difference is we attacked the deck from topside. I used a roto-zip to just cut the top layer of fiberglass. Removed the 'soft' 3/8 wood core. We used 'west system' epoxy with 'thickener' for bonding. Replaced the 3/8 wood core. Mixed the epoxy to a peanut-butter consistency and spread is on the lower layer of fiberglass. Drilled holes through the wood and bottom layer and used threaded rods and 2x4 pieces on upper and lower for pulling the new wood and bottom layer of glass together so the epoxy was able to get a good bond. Then we used several (5) coats of glass saturated with epoxy over the top of the wood. We then used interlux 2 part paint. Turned out great. Next project is the fore deck. I think I will use the same procedure.
Hope this makes sense and helps,
Mark Slifko
Hope this makes sense and helps,
Mark Slifko
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John D.
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:14
- Location: "Lilypad"
CD27 #105
Annapolis, Maryland - Contact:
Good website with illustrated core repair technique
Dan Pfeiffer is not a Cape Dory owner, but his website has some universal applications, and is very thorough:
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/cfloor.htm
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/cfloor.htm
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Rollergirl
- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Gravity
Hi Paul
I tried the underside replacement with my Ensign, and gave up. I actually had to remove the deck to finish the job.
It's easy to remove the old material from the underside, but a lot of work to replace it. During the time the epoxy is getting solid, the core and FRP overcoat need to be held up. It's a big area to rig supports that apply even pressure, which you need to do to avoid voided areas in you work.'
I had bought a vacuum pump to do this, and found I couldn't work fast enough to set it all up. I was through, had preplaced the seals, precut materials and have done extensive recoring in the past.
It was a humbling experience.
IMHO, a exterior-bonded layer of plywood will not help much to relive the flexing, and your FRP deck will crumble apart.
Zip the top off, and learn to paint. You'll still have a lot of the sailing season this year.
Bill
I tried the underside replacement with my Ensign, and gave up. I actually had to remove the deck to finish the job.
It's easy to remove the old material from the underside, but a lot of work to replace it. During the time the epoxy is getting solid, the core and FRP overcoat need to be held up. It's a big area to rig supports that apply even pressure, which you need to do to avoid voided areas in you work.'
I had bought a vacuum pump to do this, and found I couldn't work fast enough to set it all up. I was through, had preplaced the seals, precut materials and have done extensive recoring in the past.
It was a humbling experience.
IMHO, a exterior-bonded layer of plywood will not help much to relive the flexing, and your FRP deck will crumble apart.
Zip the top off, and learn to paint. You'll still have a lot of the sailing season this year.
Bill
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Tom McD
core repair
Take a look at the West System magazine at http://www.epoxyworks.com/19/index19.html.
They do a complete explanation of the entire process. And as others have said, get the West System books.
I have done the cabin top, cockpit floor and aft deck on my 1975 Typhoon. I have found that while it is a relatively easy process, taking your time will give the best results. For core material I used end grain cedar that I cut from kiln dried 2x6 stock.
If you need some pictures I can be reached at tmjmcd(nospam)@optonline.net Get rid of the nospan in the address.
Tom McD
Typhoon 1053
They do a complete explanation of the entire process. And as others have said, get the West System books.
I have done the cabin top, cockpit floor and aft deck on my 1975 Typhoon. I have found that while it is a relatively easy process, taking your time will give the best results. For core material I used end grain cedar that I cut from kiln dried 2x6 stock.
If you need some pictures I can be reached at tmjmcd(nospam)@optonline.net Get rid of the nospan in the address.
Tom McD
Typhoon 1053