Applying Awlgrip to the Exterior Cabin Top

[John Stone]

I thought I would start a thread on applying Awlgrip to the exterior of the cabin top of the Far Reach for anyone else contemplating a similar project. We last applied Awlgrip (to the topsides—hull above waterline) in 2017. You can find that link here: http://www.farreachvoyages.com/blank-6/

This is not intended to be a major full-on project. The end-state is to apply paint to the cabin top without looking for perfect results—better than good but not perfect. For that, I would have to remove the port lights and repair a few blemishes, probably apply primer, etc. I just do not want to go down that path with this project. So keep that in mind. All the supplies used in this project were left over from the 2017 project.

Awlgrip and its peer Alex-Seal is superb paint for fiberglass and aluminum. It is tough and long lasting and far superior to one part LPU like Interlux Brightsides, which we use with great results on wood—like the bulwarks and the interior overhead panels. But Awlgrip has to be applied in a very precise manner and the environmental conditions have to be right. It is not a forgiving paint as you will see. But, if applied thoughtfully and carefully and in accordance with the instructions it can produce stunning results that are quite durable. One point I would make to anyone contemplating a project like this—if you have gelcoat in good condition do what you can to maintain it and put off applying Awlgrip till there is no other option. Nothing is as tough or easy to care for as gelcoat. Once you apply Awlgrip or a paint like it then you are married to it forever.

After 7 years of sailing and about 11,000nm the Awlgrip on the cabin top was showing wear. This is mostly due to using hank on sails and just rigorous sailing and life aboard. The most wear was on the forward face of the cabin top where the jib clew made contact dropping the sail or just the abrasion caused by sails being dragged across the deck. To be sure there was wear on other spots but minimal. There was some fading. I have never buffed (not generally a good idea with Awlgrip) or applied a polymer sealer (Awlcare) to the cabin top.

The first order of business was to dewax and remove any contaminates from the area to be repainted. I removed the full cover and washed the deck with water and Awlwash. I then applied Interlux Dewaxer, a pinkish red gritty slurry with a roller then scrubbed the fiberglass with a 3M maroon pad. Then I removed the residue with rags. Next, I rinsed with fresh water to look for beading. There was none. Good. Next I wiped the cabin top down with a slow evaporation solvent Awlgrip T0170 using the two rag method.

I tapped off the area to be painted with 3M 233 solvent resistant tape. I rigged a sun awning and sanded the cabin top with 320. I did not want to remove the old Awlgrip but I did want to abrade it so the Awlgrip would have something to grip. I used sanding blocks I made from 3/4” blue board which is a clever trick I learned from an Awlgrip painter in the Caribbean. You can cut the blocks to any shape you want (some are very small) and typically I use adhesive backed paper that comes on a 2.75” wide roll. When the blocks get deformed just cut new ones. Simple.

With the sanding complete and some good wx, Gayle and I applied the first coat but it did not go well. We got a bit of a late start and the temps climbed. But worse, I did not add reducer (thinner) and it was a mistake that I should have caught. I did not have any, or so I thought. We had some brush marks. So, the next day I sanded it all off. It took about 5 hours. I was not happy but I have had this happen once before when painting the topsides. I had an excuse then but this time it was just a lack of paying attention to what I was doing. I have long since got over getting mad when I have hiccups in a projects. The exception has always been painting. Painting is part science but a lot of art and I have not done enough of it (especially Awlgrip) to be an expert. Nonetheless, a little humble pie is healthy because it keeps you honest and attentive.

We also decided that we needed more shade and also a way to keep the dew off the boat as we are entering the season where dew is common here in NC. So, with a few days of cold weather upon us we spread the boat cover out at home in the deck and sewed webbing straps on it that allowed us to roll up the side skirts. You can see that project here: http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=38801

This modification would allow us to keep the cover on the boat for shade and dew protection but allow us to roll the sides up for light and ventilation, both important when painting.

This time we approached the project more carefully. We wiped the cabin sides down with Awlgrip T0008 (I think its simply denatured alcohol) using lint free wiping rags. We mixed up the Awlgrip G series Urethane top Coat (standard Awlgrip) added the Awlgrip Cat #3 brushing converter at 2:1 (Awlgrip to converter). Then we reduced it with Awlgrip T00031 about 15 percent. We mixed up 24 oz which was more than we intended and more than we needed. We mixed the paint in a 32 oz plastic mixing container and dispensed into a small plastic roller tray as needed. We snapped a lid on the container to protect the mixed paint. We wore our 3M 6000 series respirators with the vapor cartridges. Awlgrip is highly toxic but far safer rolling and tipping than spraying it.

We took our time and worked around the deck with the cabin top in the shade the entire time. Once again Gayle rolled horizontally with 4” foam hot dog rollers and I tipped with 2" and 1" Jen-Poly foam brushes. I tipped vertically then horizontally “light as a feather.” Gayle is detail oriented and we work well together. It is pleasant work. We replaced the roller and the brushes periodically as the solvents in the paint will break them down. The time to replace them is when they start to swell. If you pay attention is will be obvious. I went though about 4 brushes each and Gayle went through 2 or 3 rollers. The paint went on beautifully. It laid down flat with nary a curtain. We carefully backed off the boat, dropped the skirts, cleaned up our mess and left her for the day. The first coat was complete…well actually the second coat after the first botched coat, but let’s just forget about that first one.

Next day, I rolled up the curtains and examined the paint. It looked very good. We had a few holidays which we will correct with the second coat. There were a few sprinkles of grit in the paint here and there. Not a show stopper but I think I can cut those down on those during the second coat by being a bit more careful regarding dust. A full deck wipe down will help. Anyway, I lightly sanded the areas we painted using 320 on the blue-board sanding blocks and a 3M maroon pad in the corners and rounded edges. Once again the idea is to provide a toothed surface for the next coat of paint to grip. Do not over sand or you just remove paint which defeats the purpose. With the sanding complete I vacuumed and wiped down the surface with /T0008 lowered the skirts and left for the day.

It may be a few days or even a week before the temps and humidity allow the second and hopefully final coat.

Edited because I typed it out on my phone.

[wikakaru]

Despite the caveats that's a nice job, John! I look forward to seeing the final result!

Can you explain the "blue board" a little more?

Thanks!

--Jim

[John Stone]

Despite the caveats that's a nice job, John! I look forward to seeing the final result!

Can you explain the "blue board" a little more?

Thanks!

--Jim

Thanks Jim. When I get back to the boat I'll take some pictures of the blue-board sanding blocks.

[John Stone]

We finally got a sliver of decent weather. Gayle and I got the second coat of Awlgrip applied. It went on nicely. Yesterday I pulled the tape. It looks great. By the time I got the tape off it was too dark for photos. I'll take some later in the week.

For Jim, attached below is photo of a couple sanding blocks I cut on the chop saw. I used adhesive backed sand paper made for long boards. Rip the blue board 2 3/4" wide what ever length you need then chop to desired length. You can bevel cut them to get into a tight spot. Easily customizable.

Another trick is to apply the adhesive backed paper to the surface you are sanding and then file that profile into the block by working it back and forth over the sand paper. Then remove the sandpaper and apply it to the foam block and sand the surface with exact shape required to evenly abrade the target surface.

[wikakaru]

...
For Jim, attached below is photo of a couple sanding blocks I cut on the chop saw. I used adhesive backed sand paper made for long boards. Rip the blue board 2 3/4" wide what ever length you need then chop to desired length. You can bevel cut them to get into a tight spot. Easily customizable.
...

Thanks, John, but when I Google "blueboard" I get two different products. One is styrofoam insulation and the other is gypsum drywall. My guess from the photo and desired handling characteristics is that it must be the styrofoam kind.

--Jim

[John Stone]

...
For Jim, attached below is photo of a couple sanding blocks I cut on the chop saw. I used adhesive backed sand paper made for long boards. Rip the blue board 2 3/4" wide what ever length you need then chop to desired length. You can bevel cut them to get into a tight spot. Easily customizable.
...

Thanks, John, but when I Google "blueboard" I get two different products. One is styrofoam insulation and the other is gypsum drywall. My guess from the photo and desired handling characteristics is that it must be the styrofoam kind.

--Jim

Blue board at Lowe's and pink board at Home Depot. Same thing different color for different store.