Custom fuel tank

[csoule13]

MY CD27 has the original tank for the diesel, and while there are no obvious issues, I'd prefer to replace it before it springs a leak. The local fabrication shops have been unresponsive to requests for this, and the off the shelf Moeller tanks don't fit. Not thrilled with the idea of climbing into the space and modifying the dimensions, at least not unless that's the only option.

Anyone have recommendations on next steps? Can't say price is irrelevant, but it's not the top priority.

Oh, and for you CD27 owners - my tank is 16"x8"x22(give or take a quarter inch).

Chris

[Jim Walsh]

Where are you located?

[sanderling]

I have replaced a few for myself and clients. Assume hidden issues for sure after 30 yrs, unless you can fully examine all sides, bottom, and scope it inside. If it can be removed easily it's definitely preferable to waiting for a leak that will appear at the worst time (and fill the bilge with fuel).

My 1980 CD 33 has been getting a long casual refit and as I've done it, since I am experienced with tanks, I've eyed it with some skepticism every time I had to climb aft of the engine. I was almost done with all my wiring and other projects last season and ready to plash but had to move the tank slightly to do something, just a couple of inches. Sure enough, a few minutes later I smelled diesel. I was lucky that on my CD 33 there was an opening between the port lazarette and the area aft of the engine, just big enough to slide the tank out via the port locker. You have no idea how happy I was. I had to replace the tank on my CD 24 Trawler as well years ago.

They usually did not put plastic slats under these tanks to allow ventilation like we do today so the bottoms are a wildcard. If you don't decide to replace, maybe just move it a few inches to check. If there is corrosion on the bottom or other hidden areas it may reveal itself. If it doesn't you may be OK at least with the bottom. And on mine they used an aluminum piece of angle iron to prevent forward motion (a stop) and that was exactly where the main rot was. The area looked fairly normal on the outside but an ice pic just slid right through into the tank. (there were a lot of other small pitted places that were close to leaking) There should be nothing metal touching the tank anywhere except the bonding wire

I've had two tanks built by Luther's in Bristol RI, they are great. They make a professional tank and pressure test it. If you find someone local, do yourself a favor and ask for a 3/8 drain plug at the bottom, and a cleanout if you have access to one of the sides of the tank when installed.

[Jim Evans]

I replaced the fuel tank in my '81 CD33 about 12 years ago due to the bottom corroding through. I had the new tank built by Florida Marine Tanks (https://floridamarinetanks.com) who built the original fuel tanks for Cape Dory at the time. They did a wonderful job, and I highly recommend them. They were very easy to work with. And as Mike mentions, the original tank was mounted directly on a plywood shelf - I installed strips of 1/4" neoprene rubber to insulate the new tank from the plywood shelf. Unfortunately, I didn't have an adequate opening to replace the tank so I had to remove the engine to give myself room to work.

Given the age of our boats and the original fuel tank installation on plywood, I think it would be prudent to just replace the tank if you have the opportunity. I was really fortunate that my bilge pump had been turned off when my bilge filled up with about 20 gallons of diesel!

[John Stone]

I had my 10 gallon kerosene tank made by Luthers. Very professional. About $450 in 2014. They shipped it to me. I think it cost about $80 for shipping. Just installed a custom diesel tank last winter. 19 Gallons. Made by Florida Marine Tanks which ironically is in NC. Very professional. Made drawing and emailed it to them in. They turned drawing into a CAD and sent back. Talked directly with an engineer where we discussed the tank on the phone. Perfectly executed. About $525 I think. I drive out and picked that tank up. I think it took five weeks start to finish.

I had both tanks made with baffles and clean out inspection plates.

I think it’s against ABYC to put a pet cock on the bottom of a diesel tank.

Here is a link to the design and installing the diesel tank in the Far Reach.

https://farreachvoyages.net/2020/05/13/ ... s-part-ii/

[sanderling]

Not true unless they have recently changed it. Even so you should put one in for a tank is accessible. Obviously not useful on a hidden tank.

ABYC H-33.5 (j)

Drain valves on the filter(s) and fuel tank(s) shall be of the type which cannot be opened inadvertently,
or shall be installed in a manner to guard against inadvertent opening. All other outlets
for draining fuel from the system are prohibited.

[csoule13]

Thanks all. I'm in Chattanooga, TN, which has a robust business community. Maybe email just isn't there thing, or maybe boat tanks aren't worth the trouble.

All of the stories above about tanks are why I'd like to do this sooner rather than later. Tank is 43 yrs old, it's done it's job.

Inspection ports and all that good stuff would be a delight, but I think myself and the other CD27 folks will chuckle at that. There's barely enough exposed tank for the hose connections.

[John Stone]

Not true unless they have recently changed it. Even so you should put one in for a tank is accessible. Obviously not useful on a hidden tank.

ABYC H-33.5 (j)

Drain valves on the filter(s) and fuel tank(s) shall be of the type which cannot be opened inadvertently,
or shall be installed in a manner to guard against inadvertent opening. All other outlets
for draining fuel from the system are prohibited.

Mike,
It appears you are correct. Not sure where that came from. Maybe I dreamed it. Anyway, here this is a link to the appropriate ABYC regulations. Though they are not binding they are good practices.

https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/ibr ... 3.1989.pdf

Regarding inspection and clean out access plates. I would say you don't have to be able to inspect or clean them in the boat. But, you might need to get into the tank at some point for cleaning or who knows...maybe a repair or something. Or maybe someone pumped water into by mistake though it's usually the other way around. If you can swing it, not a bad thing to have installed.

[sanderling]

John,

Seasonally draining the last few inches that don't get siphoned by the pickup tube in regular use will extend the life of your new tank indefinitely. If you can perform the same service using a cleanout, our siphoning out via the fill tube, any way you get it done is a good thing.

[sanderling]

Also just to clarify, many specific portions of the ABYC recommendations have been adopted by reference within the CFRs, and are enforced by the Coast Guard, such as certain ones related to gasoline fuel systems, propane systems and waste holding systems, etc. You can find them all listed in a user friendly way on the Coast Guard site or for cryptic individuals they are verbose in the CFRs online. Light reading - LOL.

[gonesail]

Boyd Welding in Ocala, FL does custom aluminum tanks and will ship their products.

[jbenagh]

I had a tank made by Florida Marine Tank to a drawing Steve Laume made based on the original CD30 tank. I'm very happy with them and the tank they made. The original size would not fit through the locker opening so he reduced it by about 2 gallons. Although my tank had some exterior corrosion which made me nervous, the interior was mirror-smooth and I couldn't find any weak spots. I think if I had left it, it would still be fine today.
Jeff

[atcowboy]

Thanks all. I'm in Chattanooga, TN, which has a robust business community. Maybe email just isn't there thing, or maybe boat tanks aren't worth the trouble.

All of the stories above about tanks are why I'd like to do this sooner rather than later. Tank is 43 yrs old, it's done it's job.

Inspection ports and all that good stuff would be a delight, but I think myself and the other CD27 folks will chuckle at that. There's barely enough exposed tank for the hose connections.

I haven't removed my tank (CD27), but I imagine that it should just slide out aft after removing the wooden lip that retains it. The aft end of the tank is fully exposed, and it where I would put an inspection port. The aft top of the tank may only be exposed a few inches but the aft vertical wall is fully exposed. You would need to drain most of the diesel to use it of course, but it would (IMO) be the best spot to place the port to make it easy to reach into the tank.

- AT

[gonesail]

You would need to drain most of the diesel to use it of course, but it would (IMO) be the best spot to place the port to make it easy to reach into the tank.

good point. if you think about it .. you would never really need to open the access port unless the tank was empty. and yes there are existing fuel tank installations with ports on the side.