Taping Nonskid
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Taping Nonskid
I am getting ready to refinish the teak and have always had problems with the varnish running under the masking tape (I use 3M blue tape) on the nonskid areas. It is only a problem on the nonskid, flat surfaces are Okay. Anyone have any miracle answers to prevent this phenomenon? I had thought of using a different tape, but which one? Or maybe some miracle stuff to put on the gelcoat to prevent the varnish from sticking? Thanks in advance.
Re: Taping Nonskid
In refinishing the teak aboard Jasmine, I make absolutely sure that I use a top quality brush. Usually I buy a badger hair brush and use it for Cetol application whether I paint holding the brush rightside-up or upside-down. The bristles are able to hold the liquid Cetol better when I brush than the cheapies and therefore I can usually prevent running onto the wood just when I need it the least. Just be sure to paint only with the tip of the brush and not the sides.
When dipping the brush into the varnish, try to remove any varnish that is on the side of the bristles. Only use the paint that the brush can "hold,"
There is a big difference in varnishing with top quality brushes as opposed to the cheap throwaways. Once you try it you'll know the difference immediately.
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
When dipping the brush into the varnish, try to remove any varnish that is on the side of the bristles. Only use the paint that the brush can "hold,"
There is a big difference in varnishing with top quality brushes as opposed to the cheap throwaways. Once you try it you'll know the difference immediately.
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
Re: Taping Nonskid
Have you tried using 3M fine line tape. It doesn't mold as well as their other tapes but it is the only thing to use for a true clean line. If you are really having trouble then use artist masking frisket, it is a liquid latex material that you brush on and then lift it off when you are finished. It dries kind of fast so keep your brush wet and use cheap brushes.John C wrote:
I am getting ready to refinish the teak and have always had problems with the varnish running under the masking tape (I use 3M blue tape) on the nonskid areas. It is only a problem on the nonskid, flat surfaces are Okay. Anyone have any miracle answers to prevent this phenomenon? I had thought of using a different tape, but which one? Or maybe some miracle stuff to put on the gelcoat to prevent the varnish from sticking? Thanks in advance.
Re: Taping Nonskid
Here is the quick way to do it - a yard guy showed me - I taped off my 33 in less than an hour. Lay the blue tape out so the ends extend beyond the paralell sides of the panels, and cross at the corners. Next rip off a short piece of tape and lay it across the inside of each corner (make a hypotenuse) covering the arc or curve of the corner. Press the tape flat and use a single edge blade to follow the curve - lift out the inside piece. You could never bend tape around a corner as quickly, and the tape is flat with no ripples for paint to get under. Worked great for me. Regarding nonskid, a personal observation - I prefer the light silica powder, long crystals, additive to the sand. It seems to mix better for me and results in a nicer finish. Use the correct paint that goes with it. Follow directions as to ammount - doesn't seem like enough but it is. I would not use a gloss killer additive. The silica cuts the shine just enough. Good luck with your project. Best regards, Tony Betz
wildings@ncia.net
wildings@ncia.net
Re: Taping Nonskid
Sorry John, there isn't any easy answer.John C wrote:
I am getting ready to refinish the teak and have always had problems with the varnish running under the masking tape (I use 3M blue tape) on the nonskid areas. It is only a problem on the nonskid, flat surfaces are Okay. Anyone have any miracle answers to prevent this phenomenon? I had thought of using a different tape, but which one? Or maybe some miracle stuff to put on the gelcoat to prevent the varnish from sticking? Thanks in advance.
If your working outside, I would switch to 3m green tape. It can stay on for a week or more if need be, and doesn't leak as much. The trick to getting a clean line is to remove the tape the day after you varnish, and then remove what leaked under the tape. The varnish that leaks won't dry under the tape, so you can get it off. You can use thin-x to remove the "leaks", it won't do any harm to your dried varnish. A nylon toothbrush works well around handrails etc.
btw, 3m now makes a blue plastic tape for varnish work, and it is great!! You get a very clean line and the tape is all weather.
Not good for nonskit though.
good luck