Leak - Cockpit bench drain / scupper into cabin

[mashenden]

I have traced a leak to the port side bench scupper. It is definitely not the hose, but instead the water is leaking in a gel coat crack in the scupper area and dripping into the galley's aft cabinet. From within the galley I can see the water coming from between the deck fiberglass and the metal neck of the scupper above where the hose attaches to the scupper. This leak has became more apparent because the boat is on the hard, leaning to port allowing a puddle to form in that area. As soon as I wipe away the puddle, the leak stops.

Has anyone ever removed one of these bench scupper to reseat it? Im wondering if I could get it out by removing the hose, holding a wooden block over the bottom part of scupper outlet, and whacking it vertically upward.

Alternately I'm thinking of dripping some thinned epoxy into the leak area in hopes it would reseal it. Probably would take a few repeated applications.

Any thoughts on these 2 ideas or any others that I have not considered?

[Steve Laume]

You know it needs to come out to fix it right. Thin epoxy is more likely to make a mess than solve the problem and will make it harder to remove the fitting and do the job right. Since you are going to be removing the hose, you might as well cut it if it makes it easier to remove. Getting at those hoses isn't easy and this would be an excellent time to replace them. Once the hose is out of the way, you may be able to put a dowel in the fitting and wiggle it lose rather that hitting it. Once it is out, you will be able to clean and sand the fiberglass before making up some thickened epoxy to set it back in.

Make sure to have some acetone and beer handy for clean up and celebration, Steve.

[mashenden]

You know it needs to come out to fix it right. Thin epoxy is more likely to make a mess than solve the problem and will make it harder to remove the fitting and do the job right. Since you are going to be removing the hose, you might as well cut it if it makes it easier to remove. Getting at those hoses isn't easy and this would be an excellent time to replace them. Once the hose is out of the way, you may be able to put a dowel in the fitting and wiggle it lose rather that hitting it. Once it is out, you will be able to clean and sand the fiberglass before making up some thickened epoxy to set it back in.

Make sure to have some acetone and beer handy for clean up and celebration, Steve.

Yeah, you are right... deep down inside I know that removing it would be a surer bet. However, it would really help if I knew that someone has successfully removed one of the bench scuppers without destroying it.

If destroying the scupper to get it out is unavoidable, then the thinned epoxy approach is not a bad idea given the leak is a hairline crack. Regarding a mess, that is not a concern since I can see if expoxy leaks into the galley, and I need to repaint the cockpit anyways after fixing the typical gel coat crazing.

Thankfully the port side is fairly easy to get to all of the parts given the cabinet is out and in the process of being replaced.

[Steve Laume]

I doubt you will harm the bronze fitting. Since you can get access, this is definitely the time to do it right. Carefully applying a torch to the fitting should loosen up the resin bond. Then wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, Steve.

[Tom Keevil]

You might first try a bit of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. In your heart you'll know you didn't do it properly, but if it doesn't leak for five or ten years, well.....that's time you could spend sailing rather than cursing.

[Gary M]

I agree with Tom.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/captain- ... nt--243990

It has worked well for me through the years.

Last time was a windshield molding on a motor sailor with a drip drip drip.

Captain Tolleys stopped the leak. I knew it wasn't permanent but it stopped leaking.

Sold the boat 12 years later and it turns out it was permanent!

Gary

[mashenden]

You might first try a bit of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. In your heart you'll know you didn't do it properly, but if it doesn't leak for five or ten years, well.....that's time you could spend sailing rather than cursing.

Thanks, Tom. This is the same concept as thinned epoxy (mixed as usual, then add some acetone to thin it so that it will get into small cracks).

I'm going to try to see if the scupper will come out easily, but if it gets to be too much, I am definitely going to try the "temp" fix, as I too have seen it work for years upon years.

[Steve Laume]

If you do go the "thinned" epoxy route, West Systems does not recommend adding solvent but rather heating to thin the material. This has the added advantage of thickening up a bit as it cools well before it starts to set, Steve,

[mashenden]

If you do go the "thinned" epoxy route, West Systems does not recommend adding solvent but rather heating to thin the material. This has the added advantage of thickening up a bit as it cools well before it starts to set, Steve,

Ahhh, good tip. Thank you!!

Today I plan to try removal. I'll post back with the final approach.

[Steve Laume]

I suppose if you packed some putty around the inside of the drain fitting, it would keep the epoxy from leaking out. You could heat the fitting with a heat gun or even a hair dryer to make sure there was no trapped moisture and to help draw in the epoxy. If you heat the mixed epoxy you should be able to draw it up in a syringe and control the flow into the void around the fitting. Then generous amounts of P towels and acetone should clean up the outside. I suppose if you wiggle the fitting around and it is not loose then this should take care of things.

My first inclination is always to take it apart and start over but this might not be nessicaray, in this case, Steve

[mashenden]

You know it needs to come out to fix it right. Thin epoxy is more likely to make a mess than solve the problem and will make it harder to remove the fitting and do the job right. Since you are going to be removing the hose, you might as well cut it if it makes it easier to remove. Getting at those hoses isn't easy and this would be an excellent time to replace them. Once the hose is out of the way, you may be able to put a dowel in the fitting and wiggle it lose rather that hitting it. Once it is out, you will be able to clean and sand the fiberglass before making up some thickened epoxy to set it back in.

Make sure to have some acetone and beer handy for clean up and celebration, Steve.

Yeah, you are right... deep down inside I know that removing it would be a surer bet. However, it would really help if I knew that someone has successfully removed one of the bench scuppers without destroying it.

If destroying the scupper to get it out is unavoidable, then the thinned epoxy approach is not a bad idea given the leak is a hairline crack. Regarding a mess, that is not a concern since I can see if expoxy leaks into the galley, and I need to repaint the cockpit anyways after fixing the typical gel coat crazing.

Thankfully the port side is fairly easy to get to all of the parts given the cabinet is out and in the process of being replaced.

Steve, you were 100% on the mark. Thank you!! Getting the bench scupper out was not hard at all. I heated it with a heat gun, then a couple of taps upward from within the cabin and it was out.

Because of the gel coat crazing I decided it would be best to knock all of the old gel coat out of the old hole as well as surrounding the hole. I'm now in the process of making the hole snug again using thickened epoxy. I wrapped the fitting with foil so it would come back out easily. Once I have a decent mate around it, I'll seal it in permanently (hopefully tomorrow). Im thinking 4200.

[mashenden]

I ended up sealing the scupper fitting back in place using epoxy, thickened up a bit with some 406 Colloidal Silica. After thinking about it, I figured that it was originally put in with epoxy (rather than 4200) and it lasted 30 some years - no sense in changing.

Now to test it with a good rain storm.

[mashenden]

I ended up sealing the scupper fitting back in place using epoxy, thickened up a bit with some 406 Colloidal Silica. After thinking about it, I figured that it was originally put in with epoxy (rather than 4200) and it lasted 30 some years - no sense in changing.

Now to test it with a good rain storm.

Problem solved! Yeay!!

Thank you to all that offered their input. Much appreciated!!!

[Steve Laume]

This is a classic example of a job worth doing, should be done right. No more worries and you will never have to deal with it again, Steve.