oil change

[mibrinn]

Any ideas on how to get the oil out of the yanmar8 I cant seem to get the hose deeper than 4" into the oil filler is it supposed to g deeper? Is the hose supposed to be flexible ?



mibrinn@aol.com

[Duncan Maio]

Marv:

I use a vacuum-type oil change gizmo with a flexible plastic tube that snakes down the dipstick hole or the drain tube on the port side of the engine (between the alternator and starter, about halfway down the side.

I sometimes have to twist the tube and poke it around to get down to the crankcase, but it does go down there.

Remember, the YSB8 only takes two quarts of oil; there isn't that much to get out.

-Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI



dmaio@meganet.net

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

what you are doing. You are supposed to take the old oil out of the dipstick tube, not the oil fill port! If you insert a tube in the oil fill port, you will v ery quickly touch the top of the engine head. Try it in the dipstick tube, put it in until it touches bottom and pump out the old oil. Once all the old oil is out, refill to proper level through the oil fill port.

D.S.

[Warren Kaplan]

Any ideas on how to get the oil out of the yanmar8 I cant seem to get the hose deeper than 4" into the oil filler is it supposed to g deeper? Is the hose supposed to be flexible ?

Do it thru the dipstick tube. Also remember to do it when the engine is warm and the oil is warm (but obviously with the engine not running at the time). Oil is thinner that way but most important after running the engine all the sediment, sludge, dirt, and other impurities have been churned up and suspended in the oil so when you pump out the old oil, the garbage comes with it. On a cold engine where the oil has been "sitting quietly" for a number of hours, all that junk sinks to the bottom of the pan and you may not get it out. It'll be just sitting there when you put in the new oil.



setsail728@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

We also use the vacuum type oil extractor, fit into the oil dipstick tube. A little hint that might help get all of the oil sucked out; When the tube goes down to the bottom of the pan, it does so almost in a straight line for most engines. If the vacuum is released at this point, the tube will tend to "seal itself" on the bottom of the pan, not allowing the oil to be drawn out. An easy way to cure this is through cutting off the end of that tube at a slight angle..10-30 degrees should do it.
Now you can get all of the stuff out, move the tube around a bit and not get stuck to the bottom due to vacuum.

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Marv:

I use a vacuum-type oil change gizmo with a flexible plastic tube that snakes down the dipstick hole or the drain tube on the port side of the engine (between the alternator and starter, about halfway down the side.

I sometimes have to twist the tube and poke it around to get down to the crankcase, but it does go down there.

Remember, the YSB8 only takes two quarts of oil; there isn't that much to get out.

-Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI

demers@sgi.com

[Jay Ankers]

Marvin:

The "better mouse trap" for this operation is a permanently installed hose on the oil pan drain hole. Then use the Par Jabsco brass pump to suck the oil right out into an old oil bottle (from your last oil change)

Put the plug in the hose and tie the end of the hose up to a bulk head after you have changed your oil so that it is secure and will not drip any oil if the plug were to come loose.

Order the hose from a Yanmar distributer and be ready to loose some skin from your knuckles when you install it.

Cheers, Jay



jankers@pii-cgmp.com

[Bob Ohler]

I devised the following solution to oil changes. It's simple, it's cheap, and it's easy. I found that the hose that comes with the blue 2.5 gal oil change siphon type pumps is too small to allow the oil to pass thru. I found the largest size of refrigeration tubing that will fit into the dipstick hole (I think it was 5/16 or 3/8). I then adapted this to the hose of the siphon can. Previously, I would pump and pump and pump and the oil still would not flow well. Now, with the copper tubing adapter, I bet the job doesn't take 15 minutes. + the 10 more to do the transmission. This system works and it's easier than installing a new plug in the crankcase pan!

Any ideas on how to get the oil out of the yanmar8 I cant seem to get the hose deeper than 4" into the oil filler is it supposed to g deeper? Is the hose supposed to be flexible ?

bobohler@chesapeake.net

[Scott Ritchey]

I have to second (third?) the vacuum approach Larry and Duncan described. There are a couple of gizmos on the market that do this (I use the Oil Boy). One advantage is it lets you "fish" aroung with the tube to get as much oil out as possible. I can usually get more oil out through the fill hole even after sucking air through the dipstick hole. The oil really does need to be warm which makes using the old hand pump quite uncomfortable.

[Chris Reinke]

Some great ideas have been listed on getting the oil out of the engine, bit no mention has been made about the filter. Just thought I would toss out the reminder to change the filter when you change the oil.

Good Luck,
Chris

Any ideas on how to get the oil out of the yanmar8 I cant seem to get the hose deeper than 4" into the oil filler is it supposed to g deeper? Is the hose supposed to be flexible ?

Chris.reinke@transamerica.com

[Duncan Maio]

Chris:

Nope - no filters on the YSB 8 except primary and secondary fuel. You just spin the T-handle that scrapes the crud off the oil screen.

-Duncan Maio



dmaio@meganet.net

[Olli Wendelin]

Note that the T Handle Filter should be disassembled and cleaned periodically. I can't remember if its every 100 hrs or 250 hrs. Probably should do it every oil change.

Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC



wendelin@spawar.navy.mil