Painting the Hull

[Mike Davis]

I'm interested in having my hull professionally painted. The boat is a 1983 CD31 cutter. Looking for recommendations in the NY area, possibly bring the boat to a place in Long Island or Connecticut. I was quoted a price of $500 a foot. That's too steep for me.

[Steve Laume]

Yikes, that's a lot of money!

Does that include the deck or just the topsides? The deck would be a lot of work but just painting the hull doesn't seem like it should involve that many man hours. I know the paints and reducers are expensive but not thousands. I suppose a yard also needs to cover the overhead as well as the time but still.

Have you considered rolling and tipping it? I would want to practice on something else first. If it was me, I would be hauling it home and spraying it myself. On second thought, I would be spending my time, buffing out the gel coat like I already do, Steve.

[Mike Davis]

I don't have the time to do this myself, but I also want to find a professional shop that is reasonable.
Mike

[Walter Hobbs]

I rolled and tipped my 23 Sea Sprite. It came out just OK. I had to repaint after only 2 seasons. I wish I had tried to sand it and polish it before I painted it.
The yard where I keep my CD algriped the hull on a 23 ft sloop for 5K.

[John Stone]

That price is about average I think. There are some variables that could knock a few grand off. Anything a boatyard does is going to be a ridiculous price. You might get a better price using a contract boat painter. They are out there. Use google. Get references. Visit them. Go see their work.

I repainted my CD 36. I had no previous experience. Rolled and tipped with Awlgrip. You can stand as close as you want and you can’t tell is wasn’t sprayed. It’s a lot of sanding and priming. But it’s really only a couple hours a day for a lot of days. Maybe 10-14 days. Less if you’re not as fussy as I am.

Here is a link to a previous post on the forum: http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... =+Awlgrip


Pictures below to show you what’s possible. What looks like a ripple in the paint in the bottom picture is actually ripples in the plastic sheeting reflecting off the paint.

[gonesail]

I repainted my CD 36. I had no previous experience. Rolled and tipped with Awlgrip.

nice work John !! I have seen people really screw up the rolling and tipping method.

[John Stone]

I repainted my CD 36. I had no previous experience. Rolled and tipped with Awlgrip.

nice work John !! I have seen people really screw up the rolling and tipping method.

Thanks. I probably made it sound like we winged it and it was simple which is not true. It’s not hard but you have to do your homework and as anyone that’s ever done any quality painting knows that the success you achieve is directly related to the preparation work. Gayle and I have also applied gallons and gallons of varnish as well as quite a bit of Interlux Brightsides so we did not roll and tip Awlgrip with zero skill. But the basic technique can be learned pretty quickly as we described in the forum post we made in May if 2017. And interestingly we could not make the quality bristle brushes work. We used 4” foam hotdog rollers and 3” foam Jen-Poly brushes.

[Mike Davis]

It looks great, but I don't have the time to do this work which requires lots of time. I'm still in search of a place to bring the boat for the paint job. Willing to sail her into the sound and possibly leave her there for the winter if need be.

[jneely]

After some damage last fall I had my CD 27 Troika repaired and painted professionally with Awlgrip. It turned out great. New boot top too. No more compounding and waxing in the spring. We had the work done by Chuck's Fiberglass in Cutchogue. He is a genius with fiberglass boats and the paint job was just about perfect. Cost was $5000 for a 27 foot boat.