I'm wondering if anyone has replaced their depthsounder transducer on a 31? Mine has what is probably the original housing that I'm guessing is from DMI. I'm hesitant to try and remove the old transducer that is in this housing not knowing what I'll encounter. I don't know if the new traducer would actually fit in the old housing. I think it may be far easier to drill a new hole (hopefully not a bad idea) and find that the area under the sink has space and not too steep an angle on the hull.
Your thoughts will be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Guy
CD 31 Depth Transducer
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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guy leslie
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Oct 16th, '14, 10:40
- Location: CD 31 Tacet IV Traverse City, Mi.
Re: CD 31 Depth Transducer
To my knowledge, there is only one supplier of transducers which is Airmar (http://airmartechnology.com/productinfo ... ransducers). Decide what sort of transducer you want.
If you desire to replace the existing system, measure the diameter of the transducer you have currently. A caliper makes this easy. Then decide which head you want to use (RayMarine, etc.) and which transducer as the two must be compatible and the transducer must fit in the existing hole unless you want to be doing a lot more work. On my boat, the hole was 1/8 of an inch larger than the transducer so I just filled in the extra space with sealant. Purchase the pieces and bench test before you haul so that it all goes together smoothly and there are no last minute surprizes.
Some people have gone to a "thru the hull" approach but I thought it easiest to just replace what was there and have no complaints after 12 years or so.
Steve Bernd
If you desire to replace the existing system, measure the diameter of the transducer you have currently. A caliper makes this easy. Then decide which head you want to use (RayMarine, etc.) and which transducer as the two must be compatible and the transducer must fit in the existing hole unless you want to be doing a lot more work. On my boat, the hole was 1/8 of an inch larger than the transducer so I just filled in the extra space with sealant. Purchase the pieces and bench test before you haul so that it all goes together smoothly and there are no last minute surprizes.
Some people have gone to a "thru the hull" approach but I thought it easiest to just replace what was there and have no complaints after 12 years or so.
Steve Bernd
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bottomscraper
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:08
- Location: Previous Owner of CD36 Mahalo #163 1990
- Contact:
Re: CD 31 Depth Transducer
Check out the Gemeco catalog. The majority of transducers are made by Airmar but not all of them. The original transducer installed on Mahalo was actually made by Radarsonics. The catalog is large but has just about everything.
https://www.gemeco.com/catalog.php
https://www.gemeco.com/catalog.php
Rich Abato
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Re: CD 31 Depth Transducer
Good advise as always. What are you calling the "original housing"? IF it is mounted on the center line in the bow then I would look for a transducer that fits that spot. If you have the gigantic wooden block, somewhere on the side of the hull, I would definitely get rid of it. Raven had the fairing block, which wasn't too fair and was awfully big. It always bothered me. When I replaced my transducer, I ripped off the block and glassed over the opening. I then poured an epoxy pad to form a level surface to mount the transducer so it would shoot through the hull. It works very well and I have a nice fair hull now.
If you do go that way, the worst part is grinding out a 12 to 1 taper and glassing the hole over, It takes a lot of glass to build up to the original thickness but it is a pretty simple job. When I did the pour on the inside, I used a food container cut to the angle of the hull. I did the first pour all in one. It was too much epoxy and it cooked when it heated while setting. I noticed the problem right away and tore it out before it cured. You just need to do the pour in smaller lifts and pay attention as not to get air bubbles in the mix.
The shoot through the hull installing has lots of advantages and no real draw backs, Steve.
If you do go that way, the worst part is grinding out a 12 to 1 taper and glassing the hole over, It takes a lot of glass to build up to the original thickness but it is a pretty simple job. When I did the pour on the inside, I used a food container cut to the angle of the hull. I did the first pour all in one. It was too much epoxy and it cooked when it heated while setting. I noticed the problem right away and tore it out before it cured. You just need to do the pour in smaller lifts and pay attention as not to get air bubbles in the mix.
The shoot through the hull installing has lots of advantages and no real draw backs, Steve.