Hand Spliced Standing Rigging

[John Stone]

Some members of the forum may remember I hand spliced our standing rigging for the new mast we built for our CD 36 Far Reach as we concluded the six year complete rebuild. I used a splice called the Liverpool Splice. I learned it by reading Brion Toss’ book The Rigger’s Apprentice.

Our wire rigging is not 1x19 but instead 316 7X7. The bronze thimbles and the rigging for our taller double spreader rig, to include two spritshroud stays (we have a little more rigging than a stock CD 36) for the longer traditional bowsprit, cost about $1400. Of that, the thimbles cost $750 but they can be reused. That means that I can replace the entire standing rigging for just the cost of the wire—about $650 in 2014 dollars. Because the wire terminates in a tapered splice there is almost no work hardening which is usually what defeats 1x19 wire with swages or compression fittings. Also, because there is minimal work hardening the rig does not lose as much strength over time as hard terminals. And because the splice is not “serviced” (wrapped with thin line) the integrity of the splice can be visually observed. After 3 years of sailing the rigging looks new. I expect to get at least 10 years out of it in the tropics.

Spliced rigging is not for everyone. It was a fair amount of work, though mostly very pleasant, to turn out a consistent quality splice. I made about 25 practice splices before I made the first one for the Far Reach. Much of that was accomplished over several years. Practicing a little here and a little there until we finally got around to building the mast.

So why am I posting this? Well, a friend of mine has invited me to help him splice the rigging for his gorgeous self built Lyle Hess designed 34’ Falmouth Cutter. He also chose hand spliced rigging. Since I had not made a splice in three years I needed to practice. A few nights ago, I broke out the vise and using some left over wire and made a practice splice. I had a lot of fun working in the shop and remembering how to make the splice. It’s really not difficult once you learn how. And having the opportunity to make a bunch more splices will help me retain and further improve my skills. A few more over the next couple days and I should be ready.

I think the moral of the story, if there is one, is there is more than one solution to problem, task, project...one that may well be different than the offen times recommended “industry” standard solution.

Not long after our boat was launched a self professed rigger was on the dock and asked me about the splices. I explained the thinking behind them. He commented he would never make one or encourage a client to splice a rig. When I asked why, he said because there are better ways. My reply was there is no better way than a proper spliced rig...only different ways.

There is a lot of narrow thinking out there that often times is not based on the most effective solution but the easiest solution. And the two are often not the same.

So whether solving rig, paint, plumbing, engine, electronic, or accommodation issues the latest most expensive solution is not necessarily the best or only safe seamanlike solution.

And don’t forget solution built on those traditional skills. They can be a lot of fun to learn, less expensive, and just might be more reliable in the long run than the one the “experts” insist you must chose.

[tjr818]

John,
As always, you are an inspiration.

Thanks

[hilbert]

Brion Toss, like any sane, intelligent individual always splices horizontally.

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work. Using 316 stainless rather than galvanized plow steel saves you the bother of parcelling and serving each splice. I like the way you buried the strands of the taper, no fish hooks. Truly standing rigging worthy of the Far Reach.

[John Stone]

Brion Toss, like any sane, intelligent individual always splices horizontally.

I’m definitely not sane and intelligent is debatable even on a good day.

Tried both ways. For me, not even close. Vertical is the only way to go.

[John Stone]

Thanks Jim. It’s a different approach, no doubt about it but I have enjoyed it and give it high marks so far. Would make no sense unless you do the splices yourself.

[tartansailor]

WOW!!
That's a 10 on the skills scale.
My rope eyes (much much easier) don't even come close to that.
Well done John.
Dick

[John Stone]

Well, I’m up in British Columbia helping my friend with his rig. It’s a beautiful 53’ long Sitka Spruce laminated hollow core mast with all bronze hardware for which he built the patterns himself. He built the mast for his Hess designed FC 34’ he spent 10 years building. It is an incredible boat.

I’m splicing the wire outside overlooking Sattalite Channel in Vancouver Island. Unbelievably gorgeous. A pod of killer whales swam past yesterday.

We got the bowsprit on today. Should be able to step the mast in a few day. I’m making about four splices a day and helping with the mast hardware when I can.

I need to sail the Far Reach here. It’s like Maine, only with mountains.

[John Stone]

Some more pictures.

[John Stone]

The spar is 53’ long. Kaj made all the patterns and the hardware was cast at Port Townsend Foundry and a local Foundry in British Columbia.

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work, John. That boat, and the bronze hardware, are fantastic. This would have been a great subject for a Woodenboat article.

[John Stone]

Jim, it’s the most extrodinary boat I have ever seen. Not a SS fastener anywhere on the boat...even the ones under bungs. Absolutely gorgeous joinerer work.

Finished all but one wire. Then splice the other ends after the spar is stepped and we measure for length.

Off on recovery mission to pick the spar up and transport it on a cradle on the boat to another marina with a crane for stepping later in the week. Then we will be on be home stretch.

[John Stone]

We took the FC 34 around the gorgeous Saanich Peninsula and down Satellite Channel and Saanich Inlet. Lost power on the way but quickly transitioned to the inflatable with outboard as a yawl-boat. Easy day. Made it into Brentwood Bay. Spent the night rafted up to a big wood schooner.

This morning we loaded the mast. We had the help of a group of wooden boat builders and together we loaded the mast onto sawhorses positioned on the deck of the FC 34 and strapped it down. Headed back to Canoe Cove. Hope to step the mast in the next couple days so I can finishing splicing the bottom end of the standing rigging (I completed splicing the top ends).

It’s gorgeous up here in British Columbia. I’m envious of our NW Cape Dory brothers and sisters who get to sail these lovely waters.

[John Stone]

We worked till 0300 the night before stepping the mast taking care of the last minute projects. Next morning we ponied the FC 34 Astrid over to the government warf in Sydney, BC. Once again we used the 8’ inflatable with the 4hp Yamaha. The crane was there with a highly professional rigger from Blackline Marine Services. He knew exactly how to rig and protect the spar for stepping. It was a straight forward event. No drama. Took one hour from start to finish. We stayed the mast with halyards and line and tightened down with truckers hitches.

Notice the McGreger 26 on the starboard side of Astrid in the top photo below. Could there be two more different sailboats in the world! Astrid looks fantastic. The mast has a lovely rake. She is a beautiful boat. We ponied the boat back to Canoe Cove.

We fit the upper end of the lowers today, mark for length, remove the wires, and I take them to the splicing bench. Then we will install them Sunday. We repeat the process the following days working up the mast with the backstay being the last part of the standing rigging to be installed. It’s the same process I used on the Far Reach.

[John Stone]

I completed the last of the Liverpool splices for the 34’ Falmouth Cutter Astrid a few days ago. Kaj and I installed the rigging over several days. We used a variety of climbing rigs to get up the mast. He used his mountain climbing harness and we also used a 4:1 block and tackle with a bo’sun chair. For the cap shrouds and headstay/backstay we used a direct lay where I winched him up and his Dad tailed. We needed the direct lay to get to the very top as the accenders and blocks made reaching the clevis pins too difficult. Like his son, Kaj’s Danish born father is a world class woodworker too.

A quick word on climbing harnesses. If you are looking for a mast climbing methods—and there are many—a climbing harness is a good way to go. But...do not use a rock climbing harness as they are not designed to sit in for long periods of time. I have a Native Tribe harness which is used by arborist. Very comfortable and relatively inexpensive compared to those sold at Marine chandelries. If there is interest, I can write something about a safe robust system I use.

Anyway, we completed the standing rigging. Kaj has only to mount the hardware on the boom and install it to complete the rigging. I flew home yestderday after 23 days in British Columbia. I had a great time. The scenery was breathtaking...the weather awesome.

This is the second boat I have rigged with handspliced rigging. My boat, a CD 36 has 5/16” 7x7 316 SS rigging. Kaj chose 3/8” rigging for Astrid which displaces 20,000 lbs. The larger rigging is a little harder to splice than what I have on the Far Reach. I believe Cape Dorys are well suited to the long lived and very strong Liverpool spliced rigging. It’s another option to consider. Certainly less expensive and stronger over its life cycle than contemporary swages or compression terminal fittings.