CD 27 Refit

[fmueller]

Well I'm really going to town on Jerezana. My son Toby Mueller has a company, Carbon Ocean Yachts in Bristol, RI and luckily this Winter the schedule was a little light so a bay for Jerezana was available.

http://carbonoceanyachts.blogspot.com/

So: new motor (Beta 14) and total repainting in order, and then I just could not resist refrigeration and heat ... Toby was able to secure Nels Larsen/Nordic Marine in Newport to do the engine, frig, and heater install.

The Carbon Ocean shop doing all the small glass work and painting prep and shoot. There are a few other items I'll mention in later posts if they actually come to fruition.

Needless to say this is a pretty ridiculous financial proposition, especially since I'm mostly "supervising" - but I do expect to have a long relationship with my little boat - so on that basis, I'm ignoring the bad math.

I've parked photos in a DropBox folder and a link is below. I've annotated most of the photos for those who have an interest. I'll add to the Drop Box volume as the work progresses.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8xeqtsrj4log ... hat0a?dl=0

cheers Fred

[skipsmagic]

Hi Fred,

That is a serious refit and is going to be one amazing boat when your done.
Looking forward to more pictures.

Skip

[Nebe]

Looking good!

do you keep her in Newport in the summers?

[John Stone]

Fantastic. She’ll be like new.

[fmueller]

Nebe,

I keep Jerezana at Rhode Island Yacht Club way up at the top of the Bay ...

Skip, I'll try to give you a call soon if you'd still like to come by ...

Fred

[skipsmagic]

Hi Fred,
That would be great.
My next step is to empty the full fuel tank and then remove for clean or replace. I like the idea of going to a new plastic one.
Are you relocating your new one or will it fit into the old location?
Can you let me know where you purchased yours?

Thanks,
Skip

[Jim Walsh]

If you decide to stick with an aluminum tank Luthers Welding in Bristol does excellent work. I had them construct my replacement tank a few years ago.

[skipsmagic]

Great tip Jim.
Thank you!

[fmueller]

Jim, Skip,

We put a 12 gal Moeller plastic tank on a rebuilt tank platform which we glassed and painted (Bilgekote). Different dimensions than OEM.

http://moellermarine.com/product-catego ... n-20-gals/

The old wood platform was kind of a mess - aluminum does something akin to dry rot to wood over a period of time, and my son Toby wanted to have the tank on either G10 (expensive) or at least a glassed board. So he built a plank and glassed it. The tank is held in place by stainless cleats (simple channel), and the restriction of the space it's in ... (theres a fabulous contraband stash cubby between the hull and the outboard tank surface now )

We put the motor in again today and began to place most of the ancillary pieces in the engine box. Nels will pull the block once more so he can fix the off-engine items permanently, then run hose and major cables . Then Soundown insulation will go in. Then finally the motor - for good.

We have an interesting problem with the Featherstream prop. At full starboard rudder, which is about 65-70 degrees, when in the feathered position the prop just nicks the rudder side of the aperture. Just by manufacturing anomaly the rudder does not swing as far to port before it binds against the "skeg/aft keel" (which is what limits rudder angle in all Cape Dorys) and does not interfere with the prop ever when super hard over to port. So we may either grind the rudder aperture slightly, or possibly epoxy some G10 stops to the very aft of the keel at the binding point which on my boat is at the top of the rudder - thereby limiting rudder swing to about 60 degrees.

I think this second idea is better because we have no idea how much material is on the rudder before you hit the stainless "bones" of the rudder. Can anyone advise ?

I have added more pictures to the link ...

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zlpoiawhys16 ... KNGia?dl=0

but here are a few below as well

Cheers

Fred

51 Jerezana refit @ Carbon Ocean Yachts copy.jpg

55 Jerezana refit @ Carbon Ocean Yachts copy.jpg

39 Jerezana refit @ Carbon Ocean Yachts.jpg

[John Stone]

Sounds like lots of great work going on with Jerezana.

From the photos I can’t tell how close the rudder comes to the prop at normal rudder angles. But I do think 60° rudder angle is excessive. I have a rudder stop on the FR at 40°. I read in one of my design books I relied on during out rebuild that max effective angle is about 35°.

Another consideration in limiting the max angle is the tremendous pressure put on the rudder post when backing down (or if the boat is forst backward while hove to) should the tiller get away from you.

A properly place rudder stop could solve your problem.

[fmueller]

Thanks for the response John,

I agree, more than 45 degrees rudder angle does not accomplish much at all, sailing or motoring - and more than that and you risk having the rudder "pried" off the hull in a big following sea or other weird hydrodynamic event. On Jerezana as you can sort of see in one of the pictures, we have the prop temporarily on the old shaft, and at 45 degrees rudder there is no interferance at all no matter what attitude the feathering prop is in: forward/reverse/transitioning/or statically feathered.

I'd be really interested to know how you limited your rudder angle ?

All I can think of for Jerezana (externally) is to build up the trailing edge of the keel with some glass plate that interferes with the rudder swing earlier than factory the hull form does now; it does not have to be very much at all - right now max rudder to port just misses the prop by a hair in its feathered position. But max starboard rudder closes the aperture down just enough to bind the prop, maybe by 1/8"

Maybe there is a way to put some stops on the shaft internally, although on a 27 (and all the pint sized CD sloops that came with tillers), the rudder shaft is entirely enclosed in a glass tube as it climbs from the hull to the cockpit sole ... I don't think there is an actual shaft seal at the hull bearing point. Or even an actual rudder shaft bearing, just a plastic delrin type sleeve that runs the length of the shaft tube which relies on elevation and gravity and tight clearance to keep water out of the cockpit end (but none the less, under power its not unusual for me to get a little seepage around the rudder shaft in the cockpit).

thanks

Fred

[John Stone]

Fred
Right. You have a solid tube all the way from hull to tiller. I don’t have that on the FR. I have a stuffing box where the rudder post enters the hull because the FR originally had wheel steering. When I converted her to a tiller I kept the steering quadrant and used it as part of the “lever arm” for the Cape Horn windvane. For the rudder-stop I run a line between an eyebolt on the quadrant to a padeye on the underside of the cockpit sole. That padeye is bolted through the cockpit sole. I adjust the degree of maximum rudder angle by changing the length of the line between the pad eye and eye bolt.

Obviously, that won’t work on Jerezana. I don’t like the idea of glassing something onto the hull or rudder to limit maximum rudder deflection. There are powerful forces at play and you could tear a hole in the hull or break the rudder. I think by attaching a block on the fairing at the rudder’s leading edge you would be turning the rudder cord length into an enormous lever arm. The block would become a fulcrum between the rudder and the hull. A simpler solution would be to install two padeye on the vertical face of the cockpit footwell about two feet forward of where the rudder head connect to the tiller. Then, bolt a double headed eyebolt (or some other kind of bracket) on the tiller. Connect a 5/16” or 3/8” three stand polyester line with snap hooks or a dyneema soft shackle between the tiller and the padeye. Adjust the length of the line to limit rudder deflection. You want the line to give a little to avoid shock loading. You can make the line removable.

I’m sure there are other ways to achieve the required endstate. Maybe another sailor will have a better idea.

[fmueller]

Thanks for your thoughts John