CD 10 for sale #1373

[2manyboats]

OK condition CD 10 for sale. This is my second one, so not needed.
Full sail kit with original blue/white sail. Hull number 1373.
Original gelcoat in good shape.
This boat has the full fiberglass inner hull.
Aft starboard gunwale needs replacement.
Transom wood needs replacement between the two layers of Fiberglass.
$500.
In Milwaukee area

[tjr818]

How much does she weigh?

[2manyboats]

Don't know the actual weight of this CD10, Specs say #150 and it does not seem heavier than my other CD10 without the liner.
I am interested in the weight difference myself and will try to figure out a method to weigh them both.
Ill post the info on here for the benefit of the CD community.

[Carl Thunberg]

Nice boat, but the Allis Chalmers caught my attention!

[2manyboats]

I would imagine most of the members on this board have other interesting things in their barns and garages.

Why is it easier to accumulate this stuff than to get rid of it? Emotionally.
But at some point it's better to cull the herd while you are able.
BTW. the 1947 Allis C is not on the cull list. Restored by a guy who worked in the factory here in Milwaukee, and a long ago birthday gift from my wife.

Question for the board:
Has anyone done the transom repair job on their CD10? (On the model with the wood sandwiched between the inner and outer hull like the boat i have listed here.)
I have some repair ideas in mind, but would love to hear experienced suggestions.

[Dick Villamil]

I have the exact same CD10 with the same transom problem. There were a couple of posts on this board a few years ago describing the repair/replacement of the wood. It entailed removing the outer fiberglass then replacing the wood and reattaching the outer layer. The inner hull liner made it difficult to repair from the inside. Instead of replacing it I merely added some thickened epoxy into the small separation and clamped it closed. Has been OK for the past 10 years! As for the weight I never weight it but would guess it is heavier than the 150 lbs. The outer hull is very thin and I repaired many cracks in it - some even completely through. I also replaced a few seats with new mahogany then the cracked and decayed port gunwale and rub rail - a "fun" task but now the restored boat gets a lot of comments when I row or sail it on Lake George, NY. A great boat for the grandkids (and grandpop!).

[2manyboats]

Thanks for the reply. I was leaning toward the epoxy filler method myself since I am loath to cut the outer hull gelcoat, and the inner fiberglass liner is also colored fglass that will be near impossible to color match. Maybe fill the transom with West System will filler and marine ply with a Mahogany top section for looks and wear and tear.
I like this boat, but can't justify weeks on a repair with limited payback. I have a 26' (non Cape Dory, "cough cough") S2 7.9 w lifting keel, with a to do list before splashing for our short season starting in June.
We also get compliments on our CD10 we use as a tender to get to our mooring here in Milwaukee. Now Ill see if that translates to a sale. $500 seems fair, just so you don't have to row a Walker Bay!

fair winds fellow Dory sailor.
p

[tjr818]

I wonder if you could use some squirt in closed cell foam to fill the bottom portion and then epoxy in a solid piece of hardwood for the top five or six inches? It would save a little weight and it would fill any voids that might cause problems later.

[2manyboats]

Yes, I see the benefit of foam on the lower section. I am not sure what is between the inner and outer hull so I have to assume it would hold moisture.
I want to do this correctly, but then again, this is not going to be a museum piece, and, I do have other projects.
Ideally I can get this out of my barn before my wife wanders in and starts counting boats again. She sees the beauty in this little boat, but she also sees the charm in not having stuff you won't use.
I saved this CD-10 from further outside neglect and decay. It would be nice to sell it to someone who will use it and keep it up. Or, I could buy yet another one and start my own Wednesday evening beer can race on the lake... that has a nice image that comes to mind.
Ill keep that idea to myself for now.

[Dick Villamil]

When you add the foam then west epoxy (thickened) then clamp the two hulls by using boards to spread the clamp load you should be able to almost get the transom back to its original thickness. Then work on the rub rail. Once you get the boat finished it should be worth 1500 - 2000 since you have the sailing rig. $500 is too cheap for this boat - even in its current condition.