Cabin sole question

[drb9]

I'm hoping the answer to this question isn't, "it depends." I need to refinish the cabin sole on my CD26. I don't have the teak boards along the side--just the teak/holly sole along the bottom. It would be much easier if I could remove it and bring it home. But, if it's glued down, or could break if I pull it up, I will work on it at the boat.

Does anyone know if it can be removed with minimal to moderate effort? How do I remove it?

Thanks.

[jbenagh]

It's not removable. It is a thin veneer so be careful sanding. When I did my CD30 two years ago, I first sanded off any glossy finish (I had just one spot), then cleaned with Murphy's oil soap, then bleached with Daly's. Then let everything thoroughly dry. Then sanded with 220G and followed up with 4 coats of Interlux 2 part polyurethane gloss. It has held up really well but will need another coat after all the tromping through the cabin with muddy boots I did this winter.
Note that this finish is pretty sensitive to temperature during the entire cure time; I think it wants >65F for 12 hours.
Jeff

[appletim1]

I chiseled mine out of my CD 22 over 2 days.

[Ken Cave]

I know I have mentioned this solution before, but it really works great-and cheap also

If you have a Loews around you, take a look at their Novalis Home Fashion Timber Series.
It comes in a box of 20 planks that are 4 inch by 36 inches in length (and I believe it also
comes in 8 inches wide) Easy to apply as all you have to do is use a pair of heavy scissors
to cut it to shape it to your floor and peel off the backing and stick it down. It comes
in different colors-and I have had on the floor for over 5 years and it still looks great.

Another plus is that is not smooth as teak and holly floors, which gets really slippery when
wet.

Hope this helps

Ken Cave
CD 28 # 227

[drb9]

Thank you, Ken. I had seen your posts, and it's certainly a good option. I had hoped to be able to bring my floor home, to try to refinish it in a more controlled environment, but that seems unlikely to work out.

[Ken Cave]

Just took some photos of the floor system>

If you would like to see these, please send me your email address
and I will be happy to send them to you.

My address is kcave@whidbey.net.

[gates_cliff]

Ken, I just sent you an email.

The teak and holly plywood is still in fair condition, not too bad so far. However, on both sides there is and angled section that is covered by plain teak plywood. The one on the port side is coming apart, enough of a leak at some part that it's just a mess.

When I'm at my boat this weekend I'll take some photos and post as I think I'll need some assistance with figuring out how to cut the angles.

[Steve Laume]

When I'm at my boat this weekend I'll take some photos and post as I think I'll need some assistance with figuring out how to cut the angles.

Tape down some paper that is slightly smaller than the area you want to replace. Then take a rule and trace the inboard edge onto your paper while holding the outside edge to the piece you are trying to replace. Go all the way around and then pull up the paper. You now have a template you can tape on to the replacement piece and follow the procedure in reverse. It should fit exactly, Steve.

[gates_cliff]

Thanks Steve, that's called "spiling"...old shipwrights would have a block of hardwood (spiling block) they would use to "spile" a board that needed to fit an odd shape.