Datamarine depth sounder

[GeorgeH]

Spartina's original depth sounder has finally given up the ghost and I am wondering what other CD owners have done in this situation.

I am told that you can't just swap in another depth sounder and that I will need to install a new updated transducer as well.

Wiring in a new depth sounder doesn't sound too hard but removing and replacing the old transducer located below the waterline in the bow sounds a bit challenging.

I would interested in hearing from others how difficult a job it is to install a new transducer and any advice that could be shared.

[RC James]

You can try dmimarine.com
I used them last summer to refurbish the original depthmeter. The transducer was ok, but the bulkhead unit showed a blown fuse, no display after replacing the fuse, and zip for power to the unit.

About a 2 week turnaround, definitely cheaper than buying and replacing a new unit, and it still matches the old DMI speedo unit.

Very satisfied.
RC

[RC James]

PS: I was assuming the original unit you had was DataMarine.
RC

[Bob Ohler]

I cannot say enough good things about DMI! I sent them my S200DL earlier this year. You fill out the form that you download from their website. Read the instructions and understand their fees. I shipped the control head to them. They called with a quote, and I had my unit back a week later. When they called me, they said the unit would perform like the day it was new. It does! It took me 10 minutes to reinstall the unit head back into the hold housing. The display is now bright, fast, and accurate. There was no fiberglass work to be done and the old transducer works fine.

Bob Ohler

[Sea Hunt Video]

Check this website for more positive comments about Data Marine.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... rine+depth

I posted a phone number for Data Marine in that earlier website. I am very happy with Customer Service.

[Paul D.]

I replaced old Datamarine speed and depth a few years ago. Did not know about the Datamarine refurbish option. Also had issues with the transducer. I upgraded to ST60 from Raymarine on a spring sale. The installation was fairly straight forward but I did need to fiberglass up a smaller hole for the speedo transducer. Installed both on a weekend with the hardest part being the running of wires through the pedestal. Helps to have a mate there and to run messenger lines down when you pull through the old wires. One thing I like about the new depth sounder is it reads to 400', twice as deep as the Datamarine. Makes for a good navigation tool.

New displays mounted


New transducers mounted

[Neil Gordon]

As a relative techno-peasant, I installed a Standard Horizon DS45, plugged in the existing transducer cable, and have been getting accurate readings for nearly two decades.

[Jim Walsh]

I upgraded to ST60 from Raymarine on a spring sale. The installation was fairly straight forward but I did need to fiberglass up a smaller hole for the speedo transducer. Installed both on a weekend with the hardest part being the running of wires through the pedestal. Helps to have a mate there and to run messenger lines down when you pull through the old wires. One thing I like about the new depth sounder is it reads to 400', twice as deep as the Datamarine. Makes for a good navigation tool.


New transducers mounted

Paul,
I have a ST60 Tridata. It was installed by the PO back in 2001 or 2002 and is a fine instrument. He had the transducer installed by a pro and it was placed on the centerline just abaft the water tank under my v-berth. Here's a picture. I wish I had the plug from the hole saw. I'll bet it was an impressive lamination at that spot in the hull.
I lost soundings about 90 miles off the coast this summer and didn't have a reading till a week later when I was in spitting distance of Bermuda. When the unit first loses soundings it flashes to get your attention, then a few minutes later it just reads "---" until it again picks up the bottom.
I have a Raymarine C-80 chartplotter and the transducer and paddle wheel both plugged into the new instrument so I didn't have to fool with replacement issues when I upgraded. I left my Tridata and Windspeed units in place so I essentially have backup instruments.

[Tom Keevil]

We did the same as Neil. The old transducer works just fine with the Standard Horizon unit.

[Carl Thunberg]

Related to this topic, does anyone know the power requirements of the Datamarine transducer? I recently purchased a Garmin transducer manufactured by Airmar Technologies that uses 600 watts. That seems like a lot of power consumption to me. I haven't installed it yet, and could return it.

[Jim Walsh]

Related to this topic, does anyone know the power requirements of the Datamarine transducer? I recently purchased a Garmin transducer manufactured by Airmar Technologies that uses 600 watts. That seems like a lot of power consumption to me. I haven't installed it yet, and could return it.

I know nothing about electricity, but that number seems huge. I found this on the Internet.

Amps calculation with voltage of 12V DC
For DC power supply, amps are equal to watts divided by volts.
amp = watt / volt
amps = 600W / 12V = 50A

[Carl Thunberg]

50 amps for a depth transducer can't be right. I think I better take a closer look at the owner's manual.

[Steve Laume]

When the Data Marine depth sounder started to act erratically on Raven I took the opportunity to get rid of the huge fairing block and transducer, that had always bothered me.

I made a teak plate to fill the excess hole in the bulkhead and installed a Hummingbird sounder. The complete unit is about $100. It reads to 600' and has the typical alarms and settings for keel off set or true depth. Basically, what more could you ask for unless you wanted it to interface with your chart plotter and I would much prefer to have separate systems in this case.

I pulled out the gigantic fairing block and then glassed the hole in and faired the hull. The new puck is now mounted in the same location but inside the hull. I was careful to create a bubble free epoxy lay up and the thing reads accurately right up to 600' as far as I can tell. This eliminated one more hole in the boat and will make it easy to change out if the need ever arises.

It was simple, and easy to install as well as cheap and gives you a full function digital read out to 600'. Boat deals don't get much better than this, Steve.

[Neil Gordon]

amps = 600W / 12V = 50A

You're gonna need a bigger fuse!

[Sea Hunt Video]

Perhaps the draw is 50mA (.05A) instead of 50 amps

This suggestion comes to you from a guy who knows absolutely nothing about electricity - except that it is dangerous