CD28 Sailing Characteristics?

[David Patterson]

Any willing CD28 sailors on the board, please tell me about your boats' sailing characteristics. In my search for a next cruiser I've run across a possible CD28. So far my preferred list has included CD28, Alberg 29, and CD30. I'm after adequate size for more extended cruising and guests aboard, yet still of a size I can handle and maintain well, as a single-hander living on the hook 9 months of the year. How does the 28 handle in light airs, specifically one's tacking responsiveness and distance required? At what wind speeds does a 28 become over-powered under plain sail? Weather helm? Behavior in closely spaced 4 foot waves (not uncommon in the Salish Sea)? And so forth. I sail on and off anchor. My current cruiser is a 25D whose witch-like light air abilities, and sturdy sailing characteristics otherwise, are my standards of reference. I'm a fan of how Alberg designs sail. Thanks, David, Friday Harbor

[Jerry Hammernik]

David,

I've had my CD28 since 1998. One of the reasons I made the move is to get the speed carrying ability the added weight provided over my CD25. Lake Michigan is prone to closely spaced waves and my 25 would have her speed knocked down hard when heading into them. On a lake crossing once I watched a 28 walk right by me because of that. Of course a 33 or 36 will exhibit the same kind of difference over a 28.

In light air I find the weight carries momentum when the wind ebbs. Usually light air is small waves and with a good 150 she will move well. If there are waves of any size, well let's just say that's why diesels were invented.

I usually look to do the first reef in the main around 18 to 20. The boat will stand up ok but it will go just as fast with the reef and heel less. That's going into the wind. Beam reaching or running will let me carry sail longer but stronger winds are often gusty and I find that rapidly decreases my fun factor. It's times like that when I remember I really should mow the lawn.

[David Patterson]

Thanks Jerry. Very helpful. Being able to continue on comfortably in Force 5 and 6 winds is attractive. I can continue in my 25D but not comfortably. Weight and carry are also attractive. The comparison with your former 25D is useful. Are you able to "pump" the tiller to aid in light airs tacking on your 28? David

[adamganz]

David,

I’ve had my CD28 for 3 years now. I was looking at a similar group of boats (CD 25-28, Pearson Triton, Bristol 25). I settled on the CD28 mainly because I found one in my area that was the right price.

I’m located in Brooklyn, NY, sailing out of Sheepshead Bay, mostly spending time in the Lower New York Bay. If you’re unfamiliar with the area, this is right off the Atlantic, between Brooklyn, Staten Island and New Jersey. We get a ton of wind, very consistent. I am regularly sailing in winds of 15-20kts, and often more. As you might expect, the CD28 handles it beautifully.

If the wind is from the north/west, I glide through calm seas; if the wind is from east, I plow through the large Atlantic rollers that sneak into the bay between Sandy Hook and Rockaway Point, and I am thankful for the full keel. I sail by myself 90% of the time. I don’t have lazy jacks, and the halyards don’t come to the cockpit. I will change this configuration this winter as I do not like bringing down the main in high winds as I navigate back to my mooring.

There are two conditions I don’t love on the CD28, but they may be similar in the other boats you’re considering. The first is when the winds approach 15-18 with a full main. The boat rounds up, I fight the tiller, repeat. Rather than playing with the main sheet, I tend to reef the main early, at about 15, and the boat always balances out. A single reef will suffice well into much stronger winds. The second condition I don't love is light wind. No surprise, the CD is slow unless the wind is blowing.

Like many others, I removed the jib boom and replaced it with a roller furling genoa. I’ve heard some people love the self-tending jib and I’ve seen it configured with a roller furler as well. I personally just didn’t like the clutter on the deck, or the racket when tacking.

I’m 6’4”. The head height below is better than most boats this size – maybe about 6’. I can sleep up front but the bunks in the main salo(o)n are too short.

The earlier CD28s have a lot of exposed fiberglass and Formica in the interior; at some point in the early 80s, the interiors were outfitted with teak and holly floors, teak bulkheads, etc., which looks better (in my opinion) but requires more care.

I heartily recommend the 28 if you have wind.

Adam

[David Patterson]

Thanks, Adam. You've given me facts to consider, and some enjoyable imaginings about your cruising grounds. On my current boat, interestingly, I'm more likely to reef the jib first, to a working jib size, and manage the main by spilling wind, in a "fisherman's reef," though I reef the main next as wind force increases. I may get to find out what works best for me on a 28. As for light airs, my concern has to do with maneuverability more than speed. Retired, I'm happy to creep along, usually. I've grown patient, working on "mastering time." To manage my boat in light airs matters greatly to me. I'm used to being able to move my 25D in less than a knot, as measured at boom level. Not fast, of course, but effectively. I probably have at least a knot then, at the masthead. I don't wish to lose my ability to work out of --or into-- an anchorage under sail, while ghosting. Any experience with your 28 in very light airs that you can share? David (under 5' 8")

[adamganz]

David, I initially had some issues in light air when I first bought the boat but I attribute those to the terrible condition of the sails. I bought a new fully battened main sail this year and it seems to take shape and propel the boat even in a dead calm. Adam

[Neil Gordon]

I think of a 25D as a 28 with 3' of middle removed, and vice versa. If the 25D is your reference point, with the 28 you get a longer waterline and more hull speed, better sea keeping ability and a more comfortable ride, at the expense of more weight and, I suspect, some light air performance.

That said, the 28 will move through the water as long as there's enough wind to fill the sails.

Most of us reef the main first, then reduce the head sail. First reef just over 15 if I'm cruising and want an easier ride, a bit more if it's around the buoys.

Weather helm is just enough, with the right sail combination and trim.

[David Patterson]

Adam, thanks for that bit. I had hoped someone had such experiences. It encourages me, to read your comment. Neil, I've come to a similar conclusion regarding a 25D compared to a 27 recently, for I can go by and study Vigor's old SANGOMA when I'm in port. Practically the same boat save for length. I think I'd be at home aboard one, and pretty happy. No 28s around though, and I'm hoping for the greater hull volume for my cruising needs. The last 28 I saw seemed to have higher freeboard, which is a mixed blessing I realize. I didn't get to see her sailing though. As for weather helm, I only wondered if there was any sort of issue. I didn't expect one with an Alberg design. I take all of the responses above as encouragement toward a 28, knowing I would learn the boat as I sailed her. Watching John sailing his CD40 MINTAKA recently, moving her under sail in a baby's breath of air, also encourages me about a larger boat in very light airs. I have more questions of course, but thanks to all who have shared so far. David

[Astronomertoo]

I think of a 25D as a 28 with 3' of middle removed, and vice versa. If the 25D is your reference point, with the 28 you get a longer waterline and more hull speed, better sea keeping ability and a more comfortable ride, at the expense of more weight and, I suspect, some light air performance.
That said, the 28 will move through the water as long as there's enough wind to fill the sails.
Most of us reef the main first, then reduce the head sail. First reef just over 15 if I'm cruising and want an easier ride, a bit more if it's around the buoys.
Weather helm is just enough, with the right sail combination and trim.

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Hello all, I would like to share a couple pertinent observations.
I can not offer opinions as a larger CD owner, but afater lusting after CDs since 1975, kicking their "tires" at dealers, swaping tails and grilling with a few CD owners, I am now finally retired, and working on my own smaller CD25. However, I have studied the market and can offer the following to consider.
The CD25D is a considerable step up from the older style non Alberg CD25 in every way, and as much better for cruising as the CD28 is to the slightly smaller and simpler CD27. In all cases, the newer mid 80s boats are hands down much better appointed than the 70s boats. If you buy one, make it the most recent and most upgraded you can make your best deal on. Or do more work and spend more money later. I have not personally owned any boat over 27 ft, but have sailed on much larger sail boats of higher pedigree and have lived aboard my own a few years in both hot, and freezing temps.
I have always liked the CD27, which is simpler than the more cruisable, and considerably heavier CD28. The CD27 is like an overgrown dinghy for full size adults, is lighter and fun to sail. The staysail on a stick that came with the CD28 (and my personal favorite CD 30 cutter) does have advantages for longer cruising at sea where you may see consistently stronger winds and more dangerous conditions. Smaller sails are truely easier to work with single handed. Likewise, I believe in bringing the halyards back to the cabin top, for safety reasons, and not going forward any more than necessary off shore and alone. Most local cruisers prefer the simplicity of a rollable Genoa so they do not need to change sails, especially for at least a few hours. In both cases, for serious cruises, the better and easier main sail reefing hardware pays dividends in sail handling and power, as the main sails on all the older low aspect CDs rigs need reefing early for balance, and shaking out later. The easier it is the more likely you will have less stress. In all cases any older boats of any mfr with low aspect mainsails and masts will always try to round up in heavier gusts with an overpowered mainsail, and will sail better and easier, and as fast, often with less heeling, if you reef earlier, with or without the bigger Genoa, and with or without roller furling. There are plenty of times it is not safe for the boat to round up of its own accord. That is basic lack of control. The furler allows for easier shifting gears so to speak, but the main must be depowered unless you just enjoy bending the tiller. It simply makes life easier, thus safer. The point was made that a full batten mainsail is much more controllable and can provide optimum lift, thus more speed in lighter airs, and I believe that is true, at bigger expense. The sailor must balance the two. And Jiffy reefing should likewise be made to be easily and safely doable, alone.
After all that, it is up to the buyer to choose the interior comforts and pretty factors as fits their needs. We tend to like our creature comforts, more water storage, being able to cook underway, a good freezer, safe berthing for 2, with sufficient storage, and a kerosene heater that can be used at sea or simple nights out behind an island. I would still like to have a CD 27, but I love the CD28, and especially the later 30 cutters more. But for us the CD28 cutter is a sweet spot, and easily, comfortably cruisable. To each his own.
However, we have chosen the little 25 to make beautiful in my retirement for our occasional local sailing, to complement our more frequent RV life on the road with a 40 ft Mobile Suite 5th wheel, so the larger cruisable CDs are not in our crystal ball at this time. If they were, there is a local CD28 owner here in our area that is putting his own nice reworked and repowered CD28 on the market in the next couple weeks, since they are giving up cruising Florida and downsizing to a Typhoon Daysailor for local day use only. I would be tickled to have one like it.
Best wishes
Bob C

[David Patterson]

Thanks, Bob. A useful survey, for me. It has me reconsidering my reefing schedule, especially. David

[Astronomertoo]

David,
snipped...

If the wind is from the north/west, I glide through calm seas; if the wind is from east, I plow through the large Atlantic rollers that sneak into the bay between Sandy Hook and Rockaway Point, and I am thankful for the full keel. I sail by myself 90% of the time. I don’t have lazy jacks, and the halyards don’t come to the cockpit. I will change this configuration this winter as I do not like bringing down the main in high winds as I navigate back to my mooring.

Adam

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I have a minor recommendation for those who DO like their halyards run thru turning blocks on deck, back to jam cleats and/or winches/stoppers near the cockpit, which facilitates safer solo raising/lowering the mainsail in inclimate conditions. Many of you might already be doing this, but some are not aware of it.
I installed the above system on my small (< 28ft) sailboats, and included one simple addition which made it easier to deal with my mainsails and manual jibs alone, as I had no roller furling at the time. What I am speaking of is a simple downhaul line for both the main, and if appropriate, for a manual jib, which when I turned upwind and released the halyard to lower the sail from the cockpit, allowed me to simply pull the sail down to its lowered position and secure it in a jam cleat, prior to even leaving the cockpit. I did the same with my genoas, which also easier, then would go forward when convenient to secure it with bungies. Simple and convenient for a solo, or with others aboard. It made a difference on me going out alone or not on windier days, as well as keeping the sails ready to be hoisted on the way out, so all I had to do was release the down haul line(s) next to the companionway, and raise the sails, and jam/cleat the halyards without leaving the safety of the cockpit. The downhaul can consist of a pretty simple smallerm, cheaper rope with nothing more than a smaller halyard clip or hook, which would be hooked to the halyard at the sail hoist such that you are really controlling the halyard with the downhaul. baskically one is pulling the other, which ever way you are going, up or down. It is not intended to be stretched with a lot of power.
BobC

[Skeep]

I'm reading this with interest and wondering why include another couple of lines when it seems this function could be managed by a cam cleat of some sort ? After all, our halyards are already in place, if the desire is to halt them, then a cleat would do so. Not sure I understand the problem you are describing perhaps.

[David Patterson]

My first sailboat, prior to my current 25D, was a Lyle Hess-designed Montgomery 17. I learned to sail it on high altitude inland lakes in Colorado, where brief unpredictable strong winds (Force 6 plus) challenged me. I learned to love the working jib on the boat, for it had a reef and was set up with two down hauls. The reefing down haul still required switching the sheets near the mast but that was far better than going out on that tiny bow to reef the sail. Likewise for the peak down haul, for I could douse the jib completely in a trice. And keep it down. Both downhauls cleated at the cabin top in the cockpit, after running thru a couple of fairlead eyes. A down haul on the main would have been welcome, but in my novice state it never occurred to me. The boat hove to well under only a reefed main, which was also helpful for riding out those strong winds. Douse the jib, reef the main, heave to, and wait. Not that there was much room to forereach on those constricted waters. I would just reverse course until the blasts passed. The micro bursts were ever so much more exciting. Small lake sailing can get pretty dramatic. If I end up with the CD28 available on the Salish Sea I may consider adding an inner forestay to allow for a heavy weather staysail. I know some owners have done so. Which leads to a question: how does the CD28 behave when hove to? Any particular characteristics? David in CO

[Neil Gordon]

>>Which leads to a question: how does the CD28 behave when hove to?<<

I've not ridden out a gale or anything like that, but I routinely heave to in order to reef. The boat settles right down, but of course it doesn't exactly stay in place... you need sufficient sea room to stay out of trouble.

[Jerry Hammernik]

David,

My prior boat was a 25 not a 25D. As to pumping (or sculling) the tiller, it can help a bit, but I generally find that she will carry herself through a tack in light air as long as it is done smartly.