Seacock

Discussions about Cape Dory, Intrepid and Robinhood sailboats and how we use them. Got questions? Have answers? Provide them here.

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Viento
Posts: 4
Joined: Dec 2nd, '14, 20:41

Seacock

Post by Viento »

Hi all,
I have a seized seacock on my CD25 D.
It 's the one that drains the cockpit on the starboard side. I have been moving them regularly and they are all working well but this one is stuck on the opened position for some reason.
I tried to use PB Blaster just outside the seacock but nothing happened. I tried gently to use a mallet but not much room . I did not use a wood block at the time . I also loosen the nut but no help either.
I know there is a lot of info about this online and in this great Board but I though of asking anyway.
Should I worry or since it is in opposition leave it alone until time comes to take the boat of the water to fix it.?
I read that there is an "umbrella like" tool that I could use through the fitting to prevent water to come in and then work on it. Any experience?
What is the brand name of the original seacocks on CD 25D? If I need to change it which brand and type? What are the sizes? I read the CD 25 D owners manual but doesn't specify anything about the seacocks.
Thanks
Karim
cjrs472
Posts: 65
Joined: Sep 14th, '10, 21:45
Location: Juno
CD25D 1983
Hull#109

Re: Seacock

Post by cjrs472 »

Hi Viento
I always leave my cockpit drain Spartan seacock open. Whether they are seized, I don't know.
Astronomertoo
Posts: 217
Joined: Nov 24th, '11, 08:53
Location: 1975 CD25 239 Moon Shine

Re: Seacock

Post by Astronomertoo »

They should be operated (cycled) on a regular basis to keep them operable, if for nothing else, to irritate the barnacles that are growing inside the valve body, as well as the attached hoses below water level. Which is why I used to paint inside my valves up to the shut valve face each time it is out of water and let them dry out of water, then after launch open them up. That goes double for inside the engine water inlet outer hull strainer and valve.
Bob C
BobC
Citrus Springs, Florida
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Sea Hunt Video
Posts: 2561
Joined: May 4th, '11, 19:03
Location: Former caretaker S/V Bali Ha'i 1982 CD 25D; Hull 69 and S/V Tadpole Typhoon Week

Re: Seacock

Post by Sea Hunt Video »

Karim:

I have/had the same issues with my cockpit seacocks. I would first recommend using PB Blaster several/many times. Also try WD40. Finally, use a PVC pipe to fit over the seacock handle to give you more leverage and VERY, VERY CAREFULLY and slowly try moving the handle.

I used PB Blaster and WD 40 at least 5-6 times, probably more, and let its work it magic for a day or so before I would try moving the handle. Finally, after a week or more, and using a PVC pipe on the handle, I got them to move. They are still very difficult but at least they are in the open position.

I have tried several times this Summer to disassemble the seacocks and service them. Unfortunately, in 94 degree temps with 104 heat indexes I tend to get close to heat stroke inside the cabin/engine compartment. So far, no joy. :(

The seacocks, if original, should be Spartan. They are very robust. If you can remove them, cleaning and servicing them should be all that is needed. My goal right now is just to remove them. :(

As for size, call either Robinhood Marine or Spartan Marine. They will know for sure.
Fair winds,

Roberto

a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
Jim Walsh
Posts: 3365
Joined: Dec 18th, '07, 13:04
Location: CD31 "ORION" Hull #27 Noank, Ct.

Re: Seacock

Post by Jim Walsh »

Offering a solution would be easier if your location and the brand of seacock were known. If you'll be hauling the boat for the season in the next couple months I'd leave well enough alone for the time being. Once you are on dry land you can proceed with disassembly without worrying about taking on water and you can work at freeing the valve S-L-O-W-L-Y so as not to damage it beyond repair. If you have Spartan seacocks you have the best money can buy and you don't want to damage it needlessly.
Jim Walsh

Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet

CD31 ORION

The currency of life is not money, it's time
s2sailorlis
Posts: 387
Joined: Apr 9th, '14, 18:39
Location: 1984 Cape Dory 22

Re: Seacock

Post by s2sailorlis »

Jim's advice is best. Let it be until haulout.

I used a small butane torch judiciously, along with various owner penetrating oils...liquid wrench, pb blaster, etc. Liquid wrench seemed to work best.

One thing too..I very carefully..and I mean very...managed to loosen the two drain screws..I then applied penetrating oil there too. Be very careful with these screws as you can shear the head off..
______________
Rick
1984 CD22

Excuse auto-correct typos courtesy of iOS...or simply lazy typing
Viento
Posts: 4
Joined: Dec 2nd, '14, 20:41

Re: Seacock

Post by Viento »

Thank you all for your great responses
To answer Jim's question the boat is in Florida. I did not know the brand name of the seacocks but I am sure they are the originals so should be Spartan.
Most likely I will wait until I take the boat out of the water for another reason.
I also liked the PVC pipe suggestion to have more leverage so I may try it without forcing much the seacock.
Thanks agan!!!!!!!!!!!
Karim
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Steve Laume
Posts: 4127
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
Contact:

Re: Seacock

Post by Steve Laume »

Loosening the nut and lightly tapping handle with a mallet will be far more effective than adding leverage. Impact wrenches are better than breaker bars. Especially if you don't want to break something. Once you get the boat out of the water you can clean the inside of the seacock from the outside. If it was not in the fully opened position there may well be marine growth that is part of the problem.

Have faith, it will move, Steve.
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