Connecting two lengths of Chain

[barfwinkle]

Happy Independence Day America. I hope everyone had a safe and enjoyable 4th.

quick question: Is this what one should use to connect two lengths of chain (anchor rode)?



OR should this not be done?

tia & fair winds

[Gary M]

I think this would be better for anchor rode,

[Sea Hunt Video]

What about a chain anchor rode swivel

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/acco-cha ... wivel.html

[rorik]

Whatever the link is, it needs to be at least as strong as the chain it is joining.
Try http://www.1st-chainsupply.com

[Bob Ohler]

Bill, if you can locate them, get the components that are made in USA. The ones made "offshore" would make me nervous. Also, I agree with Gary. That style would be a better method than the one that you proposed.

McMaster Carr is probably a good source of US made chain links. Crosby Laughlin is the brand that I prefer for hooks and the like. www.mcmaster.com

Also, zinc spray paint (spray galvanizing) on the repair link will help fight the rust.

[Steve Laume]

My question would be just how much chain are we talking about. Maybe the lengths you have now could be used for a secondary anchor. I just don't know if I would sleep all that well, knowing that I had a potential weak link in the chain. I take my anchor rode pretty seriously. You are basically hanging by a thread so it might as well be a very good one.

I bought 90' of 5/16 chain for Raven for about a dollar a foot. That seems pretty cheap for what is at stake and the general cost of boating. I have used those links for chains around the farm but my life and boat did not depend on them.

They may be just fine but how much could a new length of chain cost? These are just my own thoughts on the matter and the link might be perfectly acceptable but I would always worry just a little, Steve.

[Jim Walsh]

That bucket of 5/16 BBB is now over 300 bucks. It is most comforting knowing your ground tackle is up to the job. The shock absorbing qualities of the catenary make a huge difference in a real blow.

[Jim Cornwell]

I'm inclined to agree that there's a tremendous amount riding on either one of those dubious connectors. They'd be fine in a quiet anchorage. But in a blow, $300 would feel like cheap insurance, I think. Jim.

[Neil Gordon]

I think it's a simple two-part test:

1 - Can the connector handle the load, i.e., no less than the chain it's connecting?

2 - Can the connector disconnect or disassemble itself without your help?

[sgbernd]

I have used the split link (two halves pinned) as shown in the second photo. It worked fine and gave us no trouble for several years until we got rid of the boat. For all I know, it is still working fine.

[Northoceanbeach]

I would never use and trust one of those connectors you hammer together. I would maybe do the swivel but I you have a windlass you can't.

I use one of those horseshoe shaped shackles to connect my two pieces or chain. The kind you use to connect chain to anchor, but i use a wichard stainless one. Just because I trust the name brand, made in France over the generic one you are supposed to use for like metals. But I don't often anchor in the same spot for long. Moused of course. I have no windlass.

You can go and have a link out in there and welded. That is the best solution.

[Neil Gordon]

A moused detachable link is, I'm thinking, no more or less likely to undo itself than a moused shackle.

[Jim Walsh]

I have 20 feet of 5/16 BBB on my kedge which utilizes the split chain link. It runs freely over my windlasses gypsy and has the same working load strength as the chain. Those split links have been an industry standard and can be trusted as much as any piece of hardware. On my bower I've got 92 feet of 5/16 BBB in a continuous piece.

[Bruce Barber]

Here's one method suggested by Practical Sailor. The shackles can be sized for the chain. A bit pricey, but secure - it's not the weak link!