Typhoon Slab Reefing

[sormond]

I recently purchased Second Wind, a Cape Dory Typhoon (1982). She came with the roller furling setup and a blown out mainsail (well, almost blown out). After trying the roller furling boom on a windy day, I decided to order a new mainsail with single deep reefing points built in, loose footed. The sail has arrived and is wonderful, except that now I have to figure out how to setup the reefing system. I envision a two line system, to keep it as simple and foolproof as possible.

In reviewing the board, I could not find any good pics of a system and the descriptions were kind of general. It seems that one option for the tack is to use a cam cleat mounted at an angle on the mast. For the clew one recommendation is to mount a cheek block on a short piece of track on the boom to allow for the cheekblock to move. I don't know if I need that, as there is only one reef point. Maybe a cheek block mounted on the boom and fixed would suffice. Also, while I hate to confess this, I don't know how to tie the little reefing lines that help tie the sail down when reefed, so that they stay in the grommets when loose. Any advice on the knots to use?

Our previous boat was an IP40 and I got spoiled with the internal single line reefing system that worked great. So I'm really a newbie when it comes to our lovely little ship.

Any advice and pics will be appreciated!
Best,
Steve

[swhfire21]

I’m not sure that this is 100% acceptable to the sailing experts/gods, but this is how I set mine up. I have 2 reefs on my mainsail.

At the tack I mounted one pad eye on each side of the mast. I positioned them at approx. a 45 degree angle below the expected location of where the cringle for the first reef would end up. The starboard side is used as a termination point for each reefing line. On the port side pad eye is a two sheave block with each line running through a sheave. The reefing lines run from there to blocks at the base of the mast (my boat has a bail at this location) then to cleats on the cabin top. One cleat was originally for the jib halyard (I have a roller furling jib so I don’t need it) and the other was installed by a previous owner (I believe it had something to do with rigging the boat for a spinnaker).

For the clew lines I have mounted two cleats on the forward end of the boom (1st reef starboard/2nd reef port) where I can stand just at/in companionway when using them. Each reefing line travels to a cheek block located a 6 - 7 inches past the where the clew reefing cringle is expected to set. The line then passes through the cringle and down the other side to a pad eye on the opposite side of the boom where it terminates. The pad eye is located about 2 inches past the point where the cringle is expected to set.

A couple notes 1) It is important that the hardware be rigged to pull the tack and clew apart to keep the foot of the sail tight. This helps to keep the sail flat, as it should be when reefed, 2) I have 2 or 3 guide eyes along the boom to keep the lines from sagging too much, 3) I have a topping lift that is adjustable from a cleat on the starboard side of cabin top which supports boom while reefing, 4) I can put a reef in by myself in no time at all and never have to leave the cockpit or lean overboard, 5) once in a while I have to lift up on the boom slightly while pulling in the last couple inches of clew line (maybe should have placed cheek blocks only 4-5 inches past cringle, not sure yet).

I don’t have any pics handy, but will try and get some if I remember/can next time I am at the dock. The wind has been blowing like crazy here all spring, so not sure when I’ll be able to do this (I’ve been reefed on every sail). I’ve had nothing under 10 kt so far, with most being in the 15+ range. In many cases it’s been very localized when I look at the maps.

The reefing pendants can be tied in place with an overhand or figure eight knot on each side of the cringle. The pendants are just for gathering the loose sail (and lines from unused reef) and should not see any significant loading as it can damage the sail. The load is supposed to be taken by the tack and clew according to my research.

I hope this helps.

[sormond]

Thanks for this detailed and helpful description!
I'm lacking the topping lift, but there is a clip line on the backstay that might serve well enough, assuming that I reef dead upwind.
Best
Steve Ormond

[sormond]

Steve: Also, where do your clew lines terminate? Do you have cleats mounted on the boom just in front of the pad eye guides?

[Steve Laume]

Thanks for this detailed and helpful description!
I'm lacking the topping lift, but there is a clip line on the backstay that might serve well enough, assuming that I reef dead upwind.
Best
Steve Ormond

That clip is not going to work too well. You really do need a proper topping lift for slab reefing. Once you ease the main halyard the boom will drop and you are going to have a mess. If you clip the boom to the pig tail it will be very difficult to get the reef squared away before the wind catches the sail when it is held in tight by the back stay. You could put a tremendous amount of strain on your rig. You could also wind up with a situation where the pig tail keeps the boom sheeted in tight as the boat bears off at a time when the winds are fairly high. This would not be good as you will still be hanging on at the mast.

Rigging a proper topping lift is pretty easy and requires a minimum amount of hardware. You will never regret it and you could still keep the pig tail just to hold the boom when not sailing, Steve.

[swhfire21]

Yes, I have a cleat for each reef located on the boom (1st reef starboard/2nd reef port). They are about 1/4 - 1/3 of the way back from the gooseneck. I mounted where I can stand just at/in companionway when using them.

Ditto on the topping lift, trying to use the pigtail while reefing may be hazardous to the health of both you and the boat. It is a must if you are trying to reef while out on the water.

I recommend an adjustable one so that it can be eased when using the boom vang (they fight each other). Mine was installed by a previous owner. It starts at the aft end of the boom, passes through a pulley in the mast head (mine has 2 or 3 pin positions that extend aft wards) then goes down to a block on the bail at the base of my mast and to an extra cleat on the cabin top. If you don't plan to use a boom vang you could easily get buy with a fixed topping lift.

My Ty is probably one of the few out there with four cleats on the cabin top (2 per side) based on all the photos and videos I've seen. They were actually installed by the previous - previous owner so I have no idea exactly why they were installed. However, they've come in handy in getting the boat set up the way I want it.

[sormond]

Great advice! Thanks for all the help. Is the topping lift made out of halyard rope or is it partly wire? Guess I'll have to de-rig to get the mast down.

I just installed the vang, so I think a adjustable topping lift is the answer.
Best,
Steve

[swhfire21]

Mine is rope. The previous owner had it made of some stronger, thin diameter rope that is braided to 1/4" Dacron at the working end. No idea what the other material is.

[Keith]

Steve,

Look at my post "2 questions on 30C". Part of the discussion is about reefing. I posted a few pics last night. They may help you but also read all of the comments about 2 turning blocks for safety in reefing on port ot starboard tacks.

As far as the tie down cringles along the boom I never use them. The sail seems to hung the boom pretty well when the reef is pulled down snug. Not sure what other think but it works for me.

I hope this helps,

Keith

[Skeep]

If the Mainsail has an eye grommet for hooking at the mast, why not simply replace the gooseneck with one which has a hook for that reef eye, then simply tie the other eyes in the mainsail around the boom itself with any ole sort of line or bungees?

[swhfire21]

I was going through some paper work and found the specs for the topping lift line. The previous owner bought it from Samson Rope Products and the material is Amsteel Blue. The Amsteel is full length with a Dacron braid woven over the top of it at the working end.

I've used the reefing hooks before and found they work well as long as your halyard is cleated on the mast. On my TY I prefer the use of a tack reefing line led back to the cockpit as I can manage the halyard and reefing line by myself and don't have to go on deck to put a reef in.

[Skeep]

Hmmm, yeah I see your point. I simply never reef my mainsail. I always prefer to reef the genoa or with the Ty, to simply hank on a working jib in higher winds, if needed.

I ran my topping lift line from the end of the boom to the masthead and have come to appreciate the flexibility that provides me in keeping the boom out of my personal life in the cockpit, at least when in the process of hoisting or flaking!