Replacing Remote Shut Off Cable on Cape Dory 25D; 1GM Yanmar

[Sea Hunt Video]

It looks like I am going to have to replace the remote shut off cable, etc. on my 1982 Yanmar 1GM. I tried "jerry rigging" a repair but it did not work.

I wish I could post a picture but have still not learned how to do it.

The black plastic portion of the pull knob, etc. that is attached to (part of) the Yanmar control panel is completely broken. When you pull the knob the entire knob, cable, etc. come out of the control panel. I tried using tie wraps to hold it in place. Didn't work. It looks like prior owner tried some type of glue, epoxy, etc. that also did not work.

I have examined the cable routing from the engine stop lever and bracket mounted on the engine block all the way back to the control panel on the aft end of the cockpit. The cable runs along the starboard wall of the engine compartment and is secured in place along the wall with tie wraps. I am assuming this was installed with tie wraps BEFORE the engine was installed. There is absolutely no way anyone (even a midget) could access the area along the starboard engine wall much aft of the raw water intake seacock.

So, has anyone replaced the entire cable on a Cape Dory 25D with a Yanmar 1GM

If so, how did you route (and more importantly, secure) the new cable

Any and all suggestions are much appreciated.

I can still stop the engine. I just need to go into the engine compartment and manually push the engine stop lever to cut off fuel to the injector. This, as you might imagine, is a royal pain.

Thanks,

[frankfurder]

I think this is a pretty common project. I replaced my stop cable for the same reason and relocated the knob to the panel next to the control panel. It has worked well in that location and the additional thickness of the fiberglass doesnt flex when you pull out the cable.

As far as removing the old and replacing the new in the same location, I think I was able to access the cable ties from the port lazerette. Not easy but the cable needs to end up on the stb. side of the engine anyway.

After relocating the stop cable I removed the control panel and sewed her up with epoxy.

[barfwinkle]

Robert I had to replace my stop cable a couple of years ago and so I removed the panel, installed the new cable and as Frank suggest, you have to contort yourself in order to affix the new cable to the coaming/wall on the starb'd side of the engine compartment.

Realizing that you are a self admitted "Tadpole" at many things, surely contortion is not one of them

I wish I had done like Frank and others had and moved the pull knob out of the engine control panel entirely, but another day perhaps.

Fair Winds

Oh and be sure, once you have completed the install, to give it a shot of WD40 or PB Blaster or some type of lub from time to time.

FW

[Sea Hunt Video]

Frank and Bill:

Thanks for the suggestions and comments. I will be working on this project starting Monday. I hope to route the new cable similar to the current cable. I am not sure I understand why Cape Dory Yachts installed the engine control panel at the aft end of the cockpit. Seems like it would have made the wiring runs, etc. much shorter and simpler if the panel were at the forward part of the cockpit. But, of course, then it would not be as much fun to install, repair, maintain, etc. It is a small pleasure but I do so look forward to those times when I can suck in my gut and contort myself into the port side lazarette. Getting in is difficult; getting out after being contorted is, well, not so easy.

[barfwinkle]

If you are alone on the boat Make certain you have the cockpit lid fixed where it can't fall and
Lock you in the hold!

Fair winds

[RC James]

Found myself replacing same cable as you a few years ago. It all started when the cable-pull was stiff, and I forced the cable to the stop position - breaking the faceplate of the control panel at the same time.

Ordered the cable from Torrensen's, and delivery was quick. Also ordered a new control panel template and, upon close inspection, realized that any and all pressures used to pull the cable were directed to the small locknut system that was attached to the thin plastic control panel, which was prone to fracture quickly as soon as the cable pull stiffened.

Placed a large washer as a backup plate on the aft end of the new control panel to help spread the stress of the pull when shutting off the engine. Even added a stainless steel washer to the front of same control panel for more rigidity. A quick 2-handed pull.... Pulling the shutoff handle w/one hand while Pushing against the control panel w/the other hand/fingers results in a zero zum gain.

The expensive face plate (there are 2 styles - check Torrensen's website for yours) is protected from early cracking and destruction. I had tried to repair the old faceplate, but it would not hold up to the pressures of pulling the stop cable.

As an additional note, I was concerned that the exposed instruments and ignition weren't adequately protected. A little head scratching and some Lexan and Brass hinges fixed that. Put a Lexan plate on the top half of the instrument panel (sandwiched between the screws and the outside of instrument box) and the lower half was hinged so that it could be raised for starting, and lowered when running and or/at the slip. It has significantly kept the instrument box and gauges cleaner than before.

Now, one other thing...... I've been following your threads, but haven't/don't remember seeing any posts about the sailing of your new jewel. Enlighten us. , please. Is she what you hoped for?

RC Serenata ChesapeakeBay

[Sea Hunt Video]

Bill and RC:

Thanks for the additional information and caution.

RC, I am really enjoying S/V Bali Ha'i. Unfortunately, I have not been able to sail her as much as I would like (or should) in order gain experience. It has been a combination of some engine issues (can't really sail her out of or back into the crowded mooring field), sustained periods of high winds (20-25 kts) and personal commitments. The few times I have gotten out (always with someone else on board) have been great. I still feel she is more than I can (or should) handle alone but am confident I will gain confidence as time goes by.

Thanks for the kind words.

[rtbates]

when pulling the stop handle out with the right hand, place the left hand on the control panel and push in. I started doing this the first time I pulled the stop lever out and noticed that the panel wants to flex. Another good idea is to cover the entire panel to keep sun off. It'll cause the holding rings on both the key switch and the stop lever to come apart...

[Sea Hunt Video]

Replaced remote shut off cable today. Job was easier than I expected. A Yanmar mechanic (and friend) did most of the work. Reading about these cables, Torressen Marine recommends periodically lubing the internal cable with a waterproof grease. I used lithium grease on the cable.

Fortunately, the mechanic is smaller than I am and was able to reach over to the starboard side of the engine compartment and tie wrap the cable in place.

Randy, I installed two ss washers, one on each side of the engine panel. This will more evenly distribute the "pulling forces" when shutting off the diesel fuel. It works well. I will also use your suggestion of gently pushing on the panel to counteract the "pulling forces". The black plastic panel itself is surprisingly "delicate" for such a robust task.

I have a plexiglass/lexan cover over the upper half of the engine panel. It looks to be original. I will probably apply some silicone around the upper edges of the panel casing to try to discourage water intrusion.

Hope to get out sailing later this week, wind conditions permitting.

Tomorrow the TV show Burn Notice is filming at the sailing club. It will be crazy. I was offered a role in the episode but they refused to pay me SAG wages.