CD30 Replacement Blocks

[John]

I'm about ready to replace all the deck blocks on a CD30. The current blocks are Schafer (black anodized aluminum cheeks with Delrin sheaves). I'm not in a hurry to replace with the same blocks. The anodizing does not hold up and the white Delrin sheaves deteriorate from UV. Also the aluminum and stainless parts on the blocks develop an electrolysis problem and eventually deteriorate the cheeks. Has anyone retrofitted with Garhauer stainless blocks. Or for that matter has anyone used any of their rigging hardware for any length of time? How has it performed and is it holding up?

Garhauer makes blocks with polished 316 stainless cheeks and they look nice and should hold up extremely well. I just don't know how well the sheaves and bearings will hold up. Their prices are very reasonable. All comments welcome!

[John Martin]

I'm about ready to replace all the deck blocks on a CD30.

Has anyone retrofitted with Garhauer stainless blocks. Or for that matter has anyone used any of their rigging hardware for any length of time? How has it performed and is it holding up?

Garhauer makes blocks with polished 316 stainless cheeks and they look nice and should hold up extremely well. I just don't know how well the sheaves and bearings will hold up. Their prices are very reasonable. All comments welcome!

John,

So far the Garhauer hardware I am using on my boat is working fine. We have the rigid boom vang, and it works great! If you plan to install the rigid boom vang on your boat, make sure you get the wrap around fittings for the mast and boom, and thru bolt every thing.

I also installed adjustable, twin lead genny cars on the toe rail, with 4:1 purchase. I can adjust the genny lead, under load, with 2 fingers. Works really great!

I have just received an order of 3 snatch blocks, they are sitting on the kitchen table, yet to be used.

All of the blocks I have ordered are with ball bearings, and that is what I recommend. All Garhauer stainless steel hardware comes with a 10 year guarentee stamped into the stainless steel.

I think Garhauer has a great product, and economical. I highly recommend it.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

John Martin
CD28 #346
"Intrepid"



johnmartin55@hotmail.com

[John]

I'm about ready to replace all the deck blocks on a CD30.

Has anyone retrofitted with Garhauer stainless blocks. Or for that matter has anyone used any of their rigging hardware for any length of time? How has it performed and is it holding up?

Garhauer makes blocks with polished 316 stainless cheeks and they look nice and should hold up extremely well. I just don't know how well the sheaves and bearings will hold up. Their prices are very reasonable. All comments welcome!

John,

So far the Garhauer hardware I am using on my boat is working fine. We have the rigid boom vang, and it works great! If you plan to install the rigid boom vang on your boat, make sure you get the wrap around fittings for the mast and boom, and thru bolt every thing.

I also installed adjustable, twin lead genny cars on the toe rail, with 4:1 purchase. I can adjust the genny lead, under load, with 2 fingers. Works really great!

I have just received an order of 3 snatch blocks, they are sitting on the kitchen table, yet to be used.

All of the blocks I have ordered are with ball bearings, and that is what I recommend. All Garhauer stainless steel hardware comes with a 10 year guarentee stamped into the stainless steel.

I think Garhauer has a great product, and economical. I highly recommend it.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

John Martin
CD28 #346
"Intrepid"

Thanks for confirming my assumptions on the quality and VALUE of their hardware. I have been considering the rigid vang you mentioned since my fiddle vang is about on its last legs and to replace the fiddle blocks and line will run around $150 so I think considering the Garhauer stainless rigid vang a big improvment for another $100. I am a little concerned about the weight of the rigid vang being that it's made of stainless and not aluminum. What's your opinion on that? Are its mounts similar to the mounting of standard bails? I really don't want to drill new holes, especially in the boom.

Also can you detail your jenny lead setup a little more? What part numbers did you use? Did you use existing track on the boat or did you add new track? I sure like the idea of the two finger adjustment when using my 150 jenny. Do the lead cars have nylon slides? Do the cars have spring loaded locks?

Thanks again for your input.