Has anyone found a solution to the very short shaft length on the CD 36? I need to pull the transmission and am faced with having to jack up the rear of the engine a couple inches, rather than just pull the transmission to the rear to disengage the shaft. I'm also not sure if the stuff box can be serviced without doing the same thing! Looks like the engine needs to be a couple inches farther forward.
Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix
cochrane@clark.net
Transmission removal, Stuff box access - CD 36
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Chris Reinke (CD330 Innis
Re: Transmission removal, Stuff box access - CD 36
Bill - I am unhappy to report that I have also replaced my transmission which required the lifting of the engine. I removed the upper engine mount nuts, but left the bottom ones secured to the bolts to assist in resetting the alignment. Once the engine rear is raised the bell housing bolts can be removed and the transmission slides aft. The folks at the Westerbeke advised that this is the best procedure. Once the bell housing bolts are removed the entire assembly can be removed to a better working area. A word of caution - the fluid can spill out of the transmission vent hole if it is inverted during removal (a big mess). Good luck in getting into the rear of the engine compartment.
Chris
chris.reinke@transamerica.com
Chris
Has anyone found a solution to the very short shaft length on the CD 36? I need to pull the transmission and am faced with having to jack up the rear of the engine a couple inches, rather than just pull the transmission to the rear to disengage the shaft. I'm also not sure if the stuff box can be serviced without doing the same thing! Looks like the engine needs to be a couple inches farther forward.
Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix
chris.reinke@transamerica.com
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matt cawthorne
Re: Transmission removal, Stuff box access - CD 36
Bill,
I think every installation is a little different, so take this for what it is worth. I had a similar problem with my starter motor. Since my engine is aligned with the mounts nearly at the bottom of their travel my solution was to disconnect the propeller coupling and raise the engine by adjusting the engine mounts up about 2 inches. I counted the number of 1/8 turns of each nut so that there was a good start for re-aligning the engine. You can pull the coupling from the prop shaft for extra access. I recommend that you check previous posts on getting the coupling off.
I have changed the packing in the stuffing box without pulling things apart. I just unscrew and slide the stuffing box nut a few inches down the shaft. The trick is digging out the old stuffing. I bought a little corkscrew arrangement that was on a flexible shaft and hauled it out that way. You can then measure the right lengths of packing on the shaft (this can be done on the OUTSIDE of the boat if it is out of the water and carry them in) and install them. The job is far from being the worst thing that needs to be done on the boat. This year I tried a new kind of packing made for the NAVY by Gore. It is a dark gray sort of slippery stuff. While being a little expensive it looks like it will last a long time.
Good luck and let us know how to do the job.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
I think every installation is a little different, so take this for what it is worth. I had a similar problem with my starter motor. Since my engine is aligned with the mounts nearly at the bottom of their travel my solution was to disconnect the propeller coupling and raise the engine by adjusting the engine mounts up about 2 inches. I counted the number of 1/8 turns of each nut so that there was a good start for re-aligning the engine. You can pull the coupling from the prop shaft for extra access. I recommend that you check previous posts on getting the coupling off.
I have changed the packing in the stuffing box without pulling things apart. I just unscrew and slide the stuffing box nut a few inches down the shaft. The trick is digging out the old stuffing. I bought a little corkscrew arrangement that was on a flexible shaft and hauled it out that way. You can then measure the right lengths of packing on the shaft (this can be done on the OUTSIDE of the boat if it is out of the water and carry them in) and install them. The job is far from being the worst thing that needs to be done on the boat. This year I tried a new kind of packing made for the NAVY by Gore. It is a dark gray sort of slippery stuff. While being a little expensive it looks like it will last a long time.
Good luck and let us know how to do the job.
Matt
Has anyone found a solution to the very short shaft length on the CD 36? I need to pull the transmission and am faced with having to jack up the rear of the engine a couple inches, rather than just pull the transmission to the rear to disengage the shaft. I'm also not sure if the stuff box can be serviced without doing the same thing! Looks like the engine needs to be a couple inches farther forward.
Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net