I am in the midst of replacing the teak & holly sole in the cabin of my CD22. The original sole came out in one piece - mostly - enough to use as a pattern for the new T & H 1/2" plywood that I ordered from Boulter.
The original sole was bedded in some sort of compound that was not too tenacious to lift up the sole from, once I removed the 20-odd screws that held it down. Removal of the compound from the cabin floor was not too bad using a heat gun and cleaning up with mineral spirits.
My questions are:
The screws in the original sole were not evenly spaced, port to starboard, forward to aft. I haven't figured out how to accurately transpose the holes to the new sole, or even if I should. Should I fill the original holes with epoxy and drill new holes?
What sort of bedding compound should I use with the new sole? If any - Is there any real reason to use a bedding compound since the sole is held down with 20 screws? 3M 4200/5200 seems like overkill and a PITA to remove the next time around.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Warren H.
CD22 Cabin Sole Questions
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
This should go in the, if I were doing the job but I am not so I can safely offer advice department.
I would not remove all of the original bedding as it will set the level for the replacement plywood. Do not even think about trying to line up with the old screw holes. Do note their location so as not to put any new screws in a bad place, like through the hull. Definitely use bedding compound. Not so much to glue things in place as to give the sole a good solid backing with no give, squeaks or creaks. Go slowly and fit often.
Remember the old carpenter's adage; if you cut it twice it could still be too short, Steve.
I would not remove all of the original bedding as it will set the level for the replacement plywood. Do not even think about trying to line up with the old screw holes. Do note their location so as not to put any new screws in a bad place, like through the hull. Definitely use bedding compound. Not so much to glue things in place as to give the sole a good solid backing with no give, squeaks or creaks. Go slowly and fit often.
Remember the old carpenter's adage; if you cut it twice it could still be too short, Steve.
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Ray Garcia
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Apr 27th, '05, 22:08
- Location: 1981 CD27 #212 "Spirit" Huntington, NY
- Contact:
Warren,
I did the same sole replacement as you did as part of a refit in 2005. I used the old sole as a template to cut a new one. I built mine out of mahogany and poplar. I did not bother screwing it down since the floor is not a structural piece, there is a fiberglass sub-floor that it sits on. I was also a little uneasy about drilling for new screws.
I wound up using a urethane based sealant to basically glue down the sole. I put down a fair amount of sealant on the floor, lowered the sole in place, weighted it down with 2 buckets of water at either end (pad placed under bucket) of the sole and after a couple of days the sole was set. 5 years later, it is still in place, no creaks or movement.
I also added a coat of epoxy on the underside to help keep the solid wood stable.
R
I did the same sole replacement as you did as part of a refit in 2005. I used the old sole as a template to cut a new one. I built mine out of mahogany and poplar. I did not bother screwing it down since the floor is not a structural piece, there is a fiberglass sub-floor that it sits on. I was also a little uneasy about drilling for new screws.
I wound up using a urethane based sealant to basically glue down the sole. I put down a fair amount of sealant on the floor, lowered the sole in place, weighted it down with 2 buckets of water at either end (pad placed under bucket) of the sole and after a couple of days the sole was set. 5 years later, it is still in place, no creaks or movement.
I also added a coat of epoxy on the underside to help keep the solid wood stable.
R