Replacing a Wilcox Crittenden Head

Klem · Post by **Klem** » Nov 21st, '10, 18:17

I currently have a Wilcox Crittenden Headmate in my 30k which needs to be replaced. One of the injection molded plastic parts cracked so if I open the seacock to let water in, I end up with a bunch of water in the bilge and an unflushed head. It appears that I could get the part but for almost half the cost of the unit so I think an entire replacement is in store. This past summer, we simply poured a bucket of seawater into the bowl and flushed but I really need to actually fix it.

My question is what is the easiest unit to swap in there that isn't too expensive? It would be nice if there were one with the same bolt pattern and approximately the same hose connections since the hoses are all in good shape. I want to keep it manual which definitely limits the options. Searching the archives, I see that some people have Groco, Jabsco, and Lavac units. Has anyone done exactly what I am looking at and how did it go?

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Nov 22nd, '10, 09:13

Raven came with a Groco. When I went to rebuild it I found that it had small cracks in the plastic that were not going to get better. I replaced it with a new Groco model. The bolt pattern was slightly different but not enough to be of much concern. I used two of the holes and just drilled to new ones. I never even bothered to do anything with the old ones other than a dab of caulk. You could make up a Starboard plate to cover all and start again.

One thing I did do was to cut a small inspection port in the aft corner of the head platform. When you pull your head, I believe you will find that it is attached with lag screws. Lags into a half inch of material just didn't seem secure enough for such a heavy and rather essential piece of equipment. With the inspection port I was able to get my hand in there and through bolt the thing with fender washers for backing. It gives me a nice feeling to know that the head is never going to get lose in heavy seas. Our little trash can wedges into the corner and hides the inspection port. If it is something that you would not want to see.

I am certainly not an expert on the various heads available but I don't think it makes too much difference if the bolt holes line up, Steve.

Klem · Post by **Klem** » Nov 22nd, '10, 19:08

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. I like the idea of an inspection port. I didn't actually know how the head was attached which was part of the reason that I was interested in maintaining the bolt pattern but if it is only lags, then I am not that concerned.

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Nov 22nd, '10, 21:53

I get the impression that the Lavac may be the best value in the long run. I hear they are reliable, easy to operate, and the favourite of long-range cruisers.

Jim Lewis · Post by **Jim Lewis** » Nov 23rd, '10, 16:25

I still have the original in my 30K....I have purchase a flush unit like the original that was on it and also used a replacement kit....this has been over 25 years of use.....it still works well.....my head unit is still in good shape with no cracks....the only reason I needed the flush unit was a crack.....I have been very satisfied with the parts that I have used, only a couple out of the kit (joker valve and flush assy).....still have other if needed.....the flush unit came complete and like you say is only about $20 less than the whole new unit...
Like everyone did not know exactly how it was attached ..... mine has screw heads and nothing has moved or become loose so am going to leave it right where it is and continue to use and replace parts or flush assy....if ever needed.....I would think you can get a brand new head from wilcox......haven t checked recently, but I always prefer using the original......there is a reason that CD picked this particular one.....thinking you can get parts anywhere, anytime.....and the unit has been very reliable for me.....never a backup or a failure.....keep us posted on how your project goes....
I am very interested.......thanks to everyone for the input....

Jim Lewis · Post by **Jim Lewis** » Nov 23rd, '10, 16:25

I still have the original in my 30K....I have purchase a flush unit like the original that was on it and also used a replacement kit....this has been over 25 years of use.....it still works well.....my head unit is still in good shape with no cracks....the only reason I needed the flush unit was a crack.....I have been very satisfied with the parts that I have used, only a couple out of the kit (joker valve and flush assy).....still have other if needed.....the flush unit came complete and like you say is only about $20 less than the whole new unit...
Like everyone did not know exactly how it was attached ..... mine has screw heads and nothing has moved or become loose so am going to leave it right where it is and continue to use and replace parts or flush assy....if ever needed.....I would think you can get a brand new head from wilcox......haven t checked recently, but I always prefer using the original......there is a reason that CD picked this particular one.....thinking you can get parts anywhere, anytime.....and the unit has been very reliable for me.....never a backup or a failure.....keep us posted on how your project goes....
I am very interested.......thanks to everyone for the input....

Klem · Post by **Klem** » Nov 23rd, '10, 18:12

Jim,

That is good to hear that you are still getting good service out of your head. It is my understand that WC is out of business and that is the reason that I am looking at other units at this time.

jbenagh · Post by **jbenagh** » Nov 23rd, '10, 21:26

I replaced the WC in my CD25 with a new WC. After doing so, I've heard that the Groco is really a better unit in that price range. I am not unhappy with the WC and the new one did fix the small raw water leak around the selector valve (apparently, that is the only wear item not replaceable on the unit).

Jeff

Jim Lewis · Post by **Jim Lewis** » Nov 24th, '10, 08:17

A lot of folks say that vinegar once a month and a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil once a week keeps them running well.
I have used both, but not at the frequency that most recommend.
I still have a small amount of the lube that comes with Wilcox repair kit....and have used alternating with vege oil......more like once a month......but you can feel the difference......I agree that
this is a very important piece of equipment to keep running smooth and a problem could sure mess up a trip......I always follow the vinegar with some kind of lube, as being acid feel like it might work on the seals while cleaning the salt deposits..........good luck to all

keep this good info coming thanks

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Nov 24th, '10, 09:25

So when we are getting ready to have a nice fresh salad, we should pour a little vinegar and then some olive oil in the bowl. I can think of all kinds of really bad jokes about other dressings but I will spare you all.

I have not used vinegar but a bit of olive oil, poured into the head, bowl every once in a while does do wonders for smooth operation, Steve.

M. R. Bober · Post by **M. R. Bober** » Nov 24th, '10, 10:16

I have been using LESTOIL as a head lube for many years. The grocery and hardware stores usually have it in stock. It is significantly less expensive than "marine" version. I put a little in the bowl, pump a few times, let it work over night and then pump it out.

http://www.thecloroxcompany.com/product ... leaner.pdf

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster (home of the head waters of the Corrotoman River) VA

The Cape Dory Board

Replacing a Wilcox Crittenden Head

Replacing a Wilcox Crittenden Head

Lavac

Wilcox head

Wilcox head

Groco v WC

Marine heads

Vinegar & oil

Lestoil