I hope that I can get some advice from someone who has done this before.
I have removed the teak eyebrow trim from along the top of the cabin trunk from my Cape Dory 27 and have refinished it at home and will be putting it back on the boat soon.
Are the screws which are spaced about every 2 feet sufficient to hold it on, or should I use some sort of adhesive/sealant along the back of the wood? If so what would be the the best thing to use ? Polysulfide?
Any other advice that anyone could give would be appreciated. I will have to put on new bungs, which I haven't done before.
Thanks in advance for any help
Brian Euerle
s/v Nor'easter
beuerle@surgery1.umaryland.edu
eyebrow trim
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: eyebrow trim
Brian, I re-attached mine with the screws and clear silicone caulk.. I trimmed the cured caulk with a sharp after the eyebrows were set in place.
I did find it necessary to drill the holes slightly deeper with a forstner bit and I also cut my own plugs. The old holes were so shallow that it would not allow the new plugs a chance to grip. Re drilling the holes to a slightly deeper depth corrected this problem
Good luck,
Bob Ohler
bobohler@chesapeake.net
I did find it necessary to drill the holes slightly deeper with a forstner bit and I also cut my own plugs. The old holes were so shallow that it would not allow the new plugs a chance to grip. Re drilling the holes to a slightly deeper depth corrected this problem
Good luck,
Bob Ohler
bobohler@chesapeake.net
Re: eyebrow trim
Brian:
I'm planning to do the same thing on my 27 in the off-season. I think the spacing of the screws in the original is fine EXCEPT at the fore and aft ends. Due to the curvature of the cabin top sides, the screws at the ends tend to pull out. I'm planning to reset the screws at the existing locations, with an additional screw at each end, closer to the taper. I'd expect that this will help prevent pulling out in the future. As to bedding, I think something non-permanent would be best. 5200 would result in a destructive removal job if the teak ever had to be removed again. I am partial to Boatlife which worked very well when I installed new tank vents.
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
I'm planning to do the same thing on my 27 in the off-season. I think the spacing of the screws in the original is fine EXCEPT at the fore and aft ends. Due to the curvature of the cabin top sides, the screws at the ends tend to pull out. I'm planning to reset the screws at the existing locations, with an additional screw at each end, closer to the taper. I'd expect that this will help prevent pulling out in the future. As to bedding, I think something non-permanent would be best. 5200 would result in a destructive removal job if the teak ever had to be removed again. I am partial to Boatlife which worked very well when I installed new tank vents.
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance
I hope that I can get some advice from someone who has done this before.
I have removed the teak eyebrow trim from along the top of the cabin trunk from my Cape Dory 27 and have refinished it at home and will be putting it back on the boat soon.
Are the screws which are spaced about every 2 feet sufficient to hold it on, or should I use some sort of adhesive/sealant along the back of the wood? If so what would be the the best thing to use ? Polysulfide?
Any other advice that anyone could give would be appreciated. I will have to put on new bungs, which I haven't done before.
Thanks in advance for any help
Brian Euerle
s/v Nor'easter
goldy@bestweb.net
Re: eyebrow trim
Brian:
As Bill said, the screws on the forward ends are the ones that seem to lose their grip first. This allows the "eyebrow" to extend a cm or two outward and catch the first piece of cloth that brushes against it, be it sheets or pants. I removed the teak plug from as many as needed, removed the screws and assumed the holes in the fiberglass were slightly larger than the screw. I then used two pieces of plastic cable hold-down ties and inserted them into each fiberglass hole and applied an epoxy mix to the walls of the hole. I then put the same screw through the eyebrow and into the fiberglass hole with the two plastic ties producing a firm friction fit. Then reapply the wood plugs. The remedy has lasted 4 years so far. Use a slow curing epoxy.
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
As Bill said, the screws on the forward ends are the ones that seem to lose their grip first. This allows the "eyebrow" to extend a cm or two outward and catch the first piece of cloth that brushes against it, be it sheets or pants. I removed the teak plug from as many as needed, removed the screws and assumed the holes in the fiberglass were slightly larger than the screw. I then used two pieces of plastic cable hold-down ties and inserted them into each fiberglass hole and applied an epoxy mix to the walls of the hole. I then put the same screw through the eyebrow and into the fiberglass hole with the two plastic ties producing a firm friction fit. Then reapply the wood plugs. The remedy has lasted 4 years so far. Use a slow curing epoxy.
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
Re: eyebrow trim
I am currently in the process of removing the eyebrow trim from my CD27. I filled the holes with Marine Tex and with some elbow grease you cann't see where the trim was installed.
The dam thing collects dirt, catches cloths on the ends, and is a source of leaks when the screws get loose.
bobmcreynolds@hotmail.com
The dam thing collects dirt, catches cloths on the ends, and is a source of leaks when the screws get loose.
bobmcreynolds@hotmail.com