New Rocna anchor

[Joe CD MS 300]

The West Marine Thanksgiving day sale finally pushed me over the edge to get a Rocna anchor. I just picked it up at the local WM. Forgetting about all the recent anchor tests of Rocnas and Manson Supremos, the design just on a common sense level makes more sense. I got the 33 lb Rocna and when compared with the 35 lb Delta I had been using, there is far more surface area. I'd guess maybe 50% more? If you are trying to induce drag what is a better shape, something wedge shaped like a CQR or cupped like a Rocna or Manson? At least the Delta has those flaps opposite the point to increase drag.

Undecided whether to keep the Delta as a spare. I have a Fortress FX-11 (7 lb) or FX-16 (13 lbs) [can't remember, that's sad] used as a lunch hook and a 32#-35# Danforth as a spare. The Delta would be tough to store. Any suggestions on what to keep.

[SurryMark]

I've got a couple of spares on board, including a big Danforth that came with the boat, but I guess if I were really serious I'd find money and a place for another Rocna. I used my 22 lb (with 40' of chain) about twenty times last summer, and it always stuck fast, like tying to a tree. I bought the Rocna instead of the Manson because I'm not fond of companies that make a living by knocking off other's desigs.

[Evergreen]

We just finished our second season using our Rocna just about every night for a 3 to 4 month period each summer.
We are extremely satisfied with the performance of our Rocna in all bottom conditions!!!
One trick that we learned when over slick mud: After lowering the anchor it pays to initially just gently exert building tension on the rode as you let it our rather than suddenly backing down hard. This allows the anchor to start to get a good bite and then you will be set for good.
We discovered this after watching the windjammers in Maine. They often sail across or down wind and then drop their fishermans style anchor right where they want it. When the chain has finished running out the vessel is drawn up short and the crew is sure the anchor is well set. It looked like a very practical way of doing things so we decided to give it a try. Well, we found that the sudden tension on the rode occasionally caused the anchor to slide across the surface rather than dig in initially. So we are back to the conventional way of anchoring into the wind and drifting back which has never failed to result in a good set.

[The Patriot]

... watching the windjammers in Maine. They often sail across or down wind and then drop their fishermans style anchor right where they want it. When the chain has finished running out the vessel is drawn up short ... we decided to give it a try ... we found that the sudden tension on the rode occasionally caused the anchor to slide across the surface rather than dig in ...

Running down and fetching up is a useful trick , particularly when an engine is either unavailable or on the blink. Perhaps that's why the tourist boats in Maine do it this way. However there is a side effect that one should be aware of. I learned it the hard way after anchoring like this quite often many years back.

My CD 28 shipped with a hard rubber roller on the anchor sprit (since replaced). After using the downwind set many times in various conditions I noticed that the rode had begun to chafe into and almost through the rubber roller. This obviously was undesirable. At the same time there was quite a bit of wear on the rode. Also this method gets really tricky if all chain is involved, since the strain on the chain when it fetches up can be dangerous, damaging, or both.

Despite the drawbacks, if one decides to use this method it's worth mentioning that the boat should be running down on the appropriate jibe. Otherwise when she does fetch up and turn into the wind an unwelcome jibe could occur.

[Klem]

The primary reason that the windjammers anchor in the way you describe is due to their momentum and needing to stop. I worked on the American Eagle for 9 years and many anchorages simply did not have even close to enough room to shoot to windward and loose speed.

The technique does set your anchor but in a direction 180 degrees from where you will lie. Also, you chain will run back over your anchor which can cause fouling with certain anchor types. And if you use chain, you can beat up the topsides really quick.

For a cruising size boat, I like to let the boat drift backwards quickly and use the momentum to set the anchor. Backing the sails can provide more force if it is needed.

[J Stevenson]

I'd appreciate the following information. We have a new to us 36 and need to decide on the primary anchor.

What size Rocna are you using?

What is your bow roller configuration (mfg)? Can a Spartan bow roller be used?

What is the setup for securing the shank while underway?

Thanks for your response.

[Evergreen]

We have a 55 pound Rocna which is too heavy unless you have a windlass or are lumberjack. That said, we are totally happy with our selection. It is very nice not having to worry when at anchor or feel as if we need to set out a second anchor. If you don't have a windlass then I recommend a 45 pound Rocna.

Rocna anchors (like Delta & Bruce anchors) have a narrow shank so they tend to wobble in just about all anchor rollers. The key is to keep them snugged up tight with a windlass if you have one. If you don't have one then I suppose one of those lever action anchor retaining chain claws that are sold at Defender would serve the same purpose. We have our Rocna on a Windline roller. However, we have tried it on our Spartan roller and it worked just as well ---- in fact I think the retaining pin even fit through the designated hole in the anchor.