Looking for starting crank

SurryMark · Post by **SurryMark** » Dec 2nd, '09, 13:43

I hear the YSM8 is hard to crank start, but I'd like to have a crank on board. Anyone have one to sell?

Alan Holman · Post by **Alan Holman** » Dec 2nd, '09, 19:38

"I'd like to have a crank on board. Anyone have one"

You really should think about this. A mellow fellow who knows where the beer is would be much more useful and pleasant.

The Meddler
(sorry about that, I couldn't resist)

Bob B · Post by **Bob B** » Dec 2nd, '09, 19:53

Hard to crank? I had a 1GM with a bum alternator. We crank started it all of the time. Just make sure to pull the decompression lever on the top of the engine, get the flywheel spinning and then ease off on the decompression lever. You do need to be careful not to allow water to come in and sit on top of the cylinder head. We worked it out and it wasn't a problem. In the long run, a solar panel worked best. This was all on a CD27 (1GM was underpowered for this boat). We never had any problems with the 25D that we had.
Bob B.

SurryMark · Post by **SurryMark** » Dec 2nd, '09, 20:44

Bob B wrote: You do need to be careful not to allow water to come in and sit on top of the cylinder head. We worked it out and it wasn't a problem. In the long run, a solar panel worked best.
Bob B.

Hmm. I don't understand the point about water on the cylinder head. Can you describe, where it came from, how you worked it out? And you're right about the ooph of an 8hp on a 27. It's got a whole lot more with a good breeze.

Bob B · Post by **Bob B** » Dec 2nd, '09, 20:53

When we would crankstart, our engine usually turned over pretty quick but if it didn't and you had to crank a while, the water pump was bringing water into the system. With the mixing elbow, water sometimes came back onto the cylinder from the mixing elbow. If allowed to sit on this, it could cause a problem. We ened up blowing a head gasket and it was a major problem. The mechanic that worked on it said that the water may have contributed to it.
We actually would keep the water intake seacock turned off until the engine fired and this prevented any possibility of water getting places where it doesn't belong. You have to be quick with turning it on as soon as it starts firing. We didn't have any problems after this.
The solar panel helped also.

SurryMark · Post by **SurryMark** » Dec 2nd, '09, 21:33

Good explanation. Perhaps it would be a good post on the main cape dory discussions, where more peope would see it.

I'd still like to find a crank, if anybody has one (why would they, though?). Also like to know how big a solar panel do you use, what brand, and where is it mounted?

Bob B · Post by **Bob B** » Dec 3rd, '09, 07:47

Mark,
We just had a 25 watt panel mounted on a homemade bracket on the stern. We could tilt it as the sun rose through the day. It did a pretty good job of keeping the batteries topped off while we were away. We were also very conservative with the use of electricity. We couldn't operate refrigeration unless we were on shore power and our autopilot would sap a battery in about a day if it was really working hard. With dual deep cycles we never had a problem. You might want to go with a higher wattage if you anticipate more drain on your batteries.
I posted our conversation on the discussion board. Thanks for the suggestion.
I hope you find your handle. I think it is a necessity for our small diesels to have one on hand.

Happy sailing.

Bob B.
CD Typhoon Liberty
Lancaster, SC

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Dec 3rd, '09, 09:07

SurryMark wrote:I'd still like to find a crank, if anybody has one

Hi Mark
I'd like to have one, too, and I think that Torresen Marine may have them.

Here's a LINK to a search I did there, but the descriptions are just a title, a parts number, and a price. I guess it would take a call or an email to see which one goes with which engine.

By the way, I noticed you refer to your "Y' engine as an "8 hp". Yanmar is misleading this way, since they use the peak, one-hour rating. I have a YSE8 (or YSM8, I forget), and the continuous hp rating is actually 7. I think the continuous rating is a more useful number, unless you're planning on some neck-snapping full-throttle acceleration

If you id the part number, and they have it, can you please advise? Thanks!

BillNH · Post by **BillNH** » Dec 4th, '09, 19:20

What diameter is the shaft that the crank slips over? I have a crank handle from a Volvo MD6 diesel (that I no longer own) that I'd be happy to pass along if it will work...

d1trout · Post by **d1trout** » Dec 4th, '09, 20:10

I too have a 1GM, inmy 25D,and would be very happy to have a crank on board, particularly now that proper hand starting has been so clearly explained. Pls let us know if a source is found.
Thanks!!

SurryMark · Post by **SurryMark** » Dec 4th, '09, 20:31

www.torresen.com lists a "universal" starting crank. I just wrote them for the second time asking what engines it fits. Will post the answer if I hear back.
260461 - Universal RIVET, STARTING CRANK HANDLE

Cirmarine lists the same crank, but has none in stock.
http://www.clrmarine.com/m4_view_item.h ... UJHW260461

Reid Supply lists a lot of cranks at
http://www.reidsupply.com/Results.aspx? ... 5Qod6U17og

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Dec 10th, '09, 10:06

I called Torresen, and they have the YSE8/YSB8 starting handle.

I've ordered it: The part number is 104211-76790, the price is $31.67, and they are charging $7.49 shipping to my son's address in Boston.

The Cape Dory Board

Looking for starting crank

Looking for starting crank

Crank

reply to bob

Solar Panel

Maybe Torresen Marine?

Crank handle search

crank supply, maybe

Just ordered it from Torresen