Teak backboards in Typhoon cockpit cracked

[oyster22]

In an effort to economize last winter, I covered my Typhoon w/ a tarp instead of having her shrinkwrapped as I have done previously. This endeavour proved to be penny-wise and pound-foolish; shame on me, as the teak backboards in her cockpit now are both cracked.

I don't know if the backboards can be glued back together; to achieve a solid fastening, some other type of support seems called for. Before any repair could be started, it looks necessary to remove the backboards from the deck which in turn requires removing winch platforms which don't look like they've come of the boat since the boatbuilder put them there almost forty years ago.

Interested to know if other owners have faced this problem and how they resolved it. I think the carpentry involved in restoring these backboards is probably beyond my skill level and beyond those at the yard where she now sits. If any one knows a highly skilled wood worker on Long Island with experience in these kinds of problems I would appreciate obtaining their contact info. Thanks...H. F.

[Jimbo]

I had the same issue on my 27. This is what I did. I drilled a piece of 1 by 6 hardwood in a drill press. I then sandwiched that between 2 other pieces, this slipped over the board and gave me the perfect angle for drilling. I bought a properly sized drill bit threaded ss rod, nuts etc. I first drilled board then reamed out the top of the hole so it could be countersunk and plugged. The nut on the bottom does show, but it also would allow me to tighten it up if needed.

[Dick Kobayashi]

There is another alternative if the cracks are not too bad. Go and but one or two SOLID brass hinges. Saw the rod holders off. Now you have two solid brass plates that can be used for securing the cracks. After a while they turn green from oxidation - so match the rest of the fittings on the boat. Oxidation will happen faster if you remove the finish on the hinges. It is a fast effective low effort low skill solution.

[Markst95]

If the cracks not too bad I used epoxy and a brown filler to make a glue to hold it together. I tried Gorilla glue but it didn't hold. You can drill a small hole at the end of the crack to keep it from splitting more. Here's a pic I found on the internet that shows a small wood support added to the combings.

[img]http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo99 ... detail.jpg[/img]

I used a tarp last winter and didn't have any problems. Did you lay the mast across the boat as a support?

[bhartley]

Mark's photo is from our former Ty. The coamings on the port side was split when we bought her. The key on this repairs is that the split started at the aft end of the cockpit and went about 20". I had to drill a hole at the forward end of the split to ease the strain. Without the strain relief, it would have continued to split the entire length over time.

The crack was opened slightly and clamped and glued with Gorilla glue. The piece of teak was to provide some stability (it is screwed in top and bottom with holes plugged with a teak bung). It was also to cover a gap between the end of the coaming and the back end of the cockpit! The repair was very solid.

The starboard coaming had been repaired earlier in her life with bronze rods in three or four places drilled vertically from the top. The only sign of the repair was the teak plugs in the edge of the coaming. This was a larger split and was a very solid repair technique.

If the coaming is broken in half lengthwise, I think the bronze (or something similar) rods are the only solution that will work. If you don't have the woodworking tools/skills to drill these small vertical holes, take them to a cabinet/furniture shop. A good shop will have the right equipment and won't be intimidated drilling long skinny holes.

[oyster22]

Unfortunately the coaming cracks are large (in excess of 18") horizontal ones. The picture of the repair Mark send sets a standard I would be quite happy to even half-way replicate. The teak supports at the aft-end are a great idea for 40 year old teak but in addition I think I'll need metal re-inforced supports (plates or rods) forward.

Clearly it would be preferable to remove the coamings from the boat and do the repair on a bench. But I'm not sure I can remove them. The winch platforms are pretty firmly bolted to the coamings and its not obvious the coamings at the bow-end can be unscrewed without doing further damage. Does anyone have experience with removing these coamings?

[Jeff D]

I would try and repair in place, or you run the risk of a much larger and more expensive repair.

A few years ago I removed the coamings from a CD 22 that I once had - not a big deal. Removed the bungs and screws, cut the caulking and the coamings almost popped off.

This past fall I removed the coamings from my Ty DS. They were attached with what I think was 5200. I spent 8 hours with all manner of scrapers, hacksaw blades and three bottles of Antibond, with no success. In the end I was left with a pair of badly splintered templates from which to fabricate new coamings. The teak cost ~$250 and I invested an additional 8 hours in fabrication and installation. Unless absolutely necessary, you don't want to go there.

By the way the original coamings on my mid 1980s CD were reinforced with several dowels running across the grain.

Good luck.

[bhartley]

Assuming the boat is on the hard and not bobbing around on a mooring, it may be easier to drill them in situ since they are held vertically. Don't forget to drill a small hole at the far end of the crack (preferably a size you have teak plugs for). I used one from either side to make it look nice when I was done with the repair.

McMaster-Carr sells extra long drill bits which you will need if you can't find them at your local store. They also have 3/16" bronze rod. I don't know what size was used on our Ty however.

Long Drill Bits

3/16" Bronze Rod

I would drill the initial hole with a standard length drill bit for maximum directional control. They make little gadgets to help, but if you have a reasonably steady hand you should be fine if you practice with scrap lumber ahead of time. Be sure to test the hole size on scrap also. It should be a tight (tamp in place) fit.

Our coamings have teak plugs to cover the holes (clearly drilled larger than the rod hole).

Hope it helps.

Bly

[Steve Laume]

Every boat is different at this point in their lives. If no one used the wrong type of caulk or way too much of it, then getting those boards off is pretty simple and straight forward. I used to take mine off every winter so I could do all the varnish work on a bench in my shop.

If they are going to come off without a struggle then that would be the best way to handle the repair. A somewhat skilled woodworker could drill holes from the bottom up and insert either dowels or long stainless screws where they would not show but would add greatly to the strength of the repair.

I would not beat myself up too much about the use of a tarp. You may have found those boards split even if you had paid to have the boat shrink wrapped. You would just have a bit less money left in your pocket to make the repairs.

Those boards are not getting any thicker or stronger as the years go by. One thing to consider is how you cleat off your jib. Even if you don't need it to control the sail, always going to a winch before you cleat off will take an immense amount of strain off your aging combing boards.

Too bad you are not on this side of the sound, Steve.

[Markst95]

I have my boards off now and they weren't hard to remove. My boat had sat on the hard for 13 years so there was very little sealant left. If you do remove them be prepared for some core rot under the winch base, if it hasn't been removed since the boat was built I would bet there would be some water intrusion that you should fix before reinstalling. Not trying to scare you but expect to find at least some.

[oyster22]

So it looks like my first effort will be to try (but not try too hard) to remove the coamings. Definitely hear the advice of those who have had difficulty with their removal and don't want to compound my problem. If they're off, I gain better options for rebuilding them. If they don't yield readily, try to drill down to install rods or screws. Finish off with those great teak blocks at the comings' aft-end.

Thank you all for the help. I really appreciate it and will post this message site after I start the job.

[bhartley]

If you're going to install blocks aft as I did, be sure to position them where they will not cover the screw holding the coaming in place. That way you can remove the entire assembly at a later date if needed without removing the brace block (which was glued in place along with 2 screws).

You may want to see how tightly attached your coamings are with a thin metal putty knife. See if you can get the blade in at all where the coaming meets the deck between 2 screws. If you do remove the coamings, there are 3 screws in the cabin holding the angle piece to the cabin top. I would recommend taking them off as one piece.

[ronkberg]

oyster22, I did this on my '73 Ty 2 years ago and it was straight forward and easy. The screws through from inside the cabin were a little challenging but otherwise all went well. I wish CD had used phillips heads vs slots, but I removed and reused. I did this job in order to facilitate stripping Cetol and applied Teaqua. Looked 100% better but the Teaqua faded too quickly.

I did not unbolt the winches, rather just unscrewed through the coaming boards. In retrospect I maybe should have checked the decking but no softness was showing.

By the way, I support my mast across the boat and tie down a tarp with bungy cords. It has worked for about five of Maine's long snowy winters and no coaming board damage.

Good luck and keep us informed.

Ron

[sloopjohnl]

i split one coaming about 30" long by hanging a boarding ladder on the coaming in the wrong place. i removed the coaming board which is no big deal, mixed up some west system epoxy with a bit of filler so it would not run terribly, separated the split just enough to get epoxy on most of both surfaces, put the board back together and clamped it in two directions until the epoxy dried. been good for about ten years now!