Bilge Paint

[Troy Scott]

Folks,

I couldn't find real "bilge paint" in the correct color for my CD36, so I've had Sherwin Williams match my CD36 bilge color in their industrial enamel (single part, not catalyzed). I still have nagging doubts about using a paint in my bilge that isn't certified BILGE paint. Can anyone tell me what makes bilge paint bilge paint? And why it is supposed to be more appropriate to the bilge than industrial enamel?

I've heard of folks using Rustoleum as bilge paint. Thoughts?

I also bought some Sherwin Williams 2-part epoxy garage floor paint in one of their standard colors that happens to be close to our bilge color. I just can't get it to brush out smooth. Maybe I'm not thinning it enough.

[Troy Scott]

I know this is a dull topic, but have any of you had experience, good or bad using industrial enamel in your bilge rather than certified bilge paint or gelcoat?

[Ron M.]

Hey Troy,
for what it's worth.... one of my first projects was cleaning and painting the bilge and the interior of the hull. That stock swimming pool blue color drove me crazy. I used a Pittsburg Paint product, a modified epoxy (oil based) enamel. It has held up very well for 6 yrs. I might add, my bilge is usually dry. I scrubbed all surfaces clean with tsp, then solvent wash and abraded with 120 grit.
Now I used the same product with the addition of a primer when I painted the interior of the cabin top, did the same prep and it flaked off.
The primer didn't stick.......so I haven't used primer since and have had no problems - go figure !
________
HONDA J-VX

[BillNH]

I've always used Bilgekote grey and have never had problems with it, but I imaging epoxy-based floor & deck paint would also work well. It's REALLY important to make sure the surface is clean and oil-residue free, take the time to do a good prep job. It'll save time in the long run.

Bill

[mgphl52]

As frequently is the case, Defender is far less expensive (especially by the gallon) than other retailers:

• Defender - gallon 50.99, quart 19.99
  PYacht - gallon 63.79, quart 22.00
  West Marine - gallon 99.99!!!, quart 33.99!!!

[Troy Scott]

Michael, Toni, Bill, Ron and ALL,

I have Bilgekote, and it is a fine product. However, it isn't offered in Cape Dory tan/beige. I have found some paint that looks right and claims to be bilge paint. it's called Lyman Sand Tan and can be seen at

http://www.sanpaco.com/ContactUs.asp

It is made to match floorboards and bilges in Lyman boats, but it sure looks like it might look right in our Cape Dorys. Have any of you tried it?

[mgphl52]

I haven't personally used either one... yet! But if I determine that I'll need a gallon, I'll opt for the Bilgekote grey (from Defender). Besides, I wouldn't want any "new" crew to get confused between 'decks/cockpit sole' and 'bilge'...

-michael

[Troy Scott]

Michael and Toni,

I'm sure that Bilgekote Gray is the safest and most proven product for this specialized purpose. I have been trying to find something equally well proven in the right color. There are some areas that will be nearly impossible to reach, and they don't look too bad anyway. If I don't change the color it won't really matter. On the other hand, maybe I can get my really small friend to put on a respirator and climb into and paint those places....
Or.... just maybe I can talk the folks at Lowes into tinting some white Bilgekote for me. Sherwin-Williams refused. I wish I knew how much tint is OK. It would be foolish to ruin the oil and moisture resistant qualities of the paint by adding too much pigment.

[Russell]

I have used BilgeKote White in several areas. Grey makes more sense if you want those icky bilge stains to blend in and not show up more, white makes more sense if you want to see the them though so you can know whats going on.

Troy, why the concern about matching color? Is it primarily a purist thing (I can relate to that!). Honestly, I have not painted every area of my bilge/engine room, and you can plainly see where I stopped painting (it goes from white to beige suddenly), but these are the hidden areas of the boat so it does not bother me.

Been very happy with BilgeKote so far, very easy to apply and seems to be up to the job. That said, I have no doubt that some industrial paint for a fraction of the cost would do just as well (I just have no idea which one and wouldnt venture to guess).

[Jim Lewis]

Find one that seals and water cannot penetrate......maybe not paint very bottom at all.......water and contaminants find there
way to the bottom of the rudder .....even though no blisters the
fluid is carrying the stuff that is in the bilge thru the hull....instead of allowing that 1 inch of water to stand in bilge I now vaccum that inch out when I leave the boat with rv heater sitting over top of access panel.....when not on board......I don t know what might happen if you seal the bilge with water in the hull???? Blisters???
Anyway was real eyeopener for me when removed fiberglass at bottom or rudder for routine maint. and found a steady dripping flow for a week.......that was moving from the bilge and exiting at bottom of rudder........good luck

[Russell]

Sorry Jim, but that does not make any sense. Your water logged rudder in no way could have happened because of water in the bilge. Even if bilge water somehow did absorb into the hull there is no way it would exit the hull then enter the rudder. Rudders are notorious for getting soggy, but it has nothing to do with your bilge.

[Troy Scott]

Russell,

Yes. Purist, perfectionist, personality flaw, whatever. I'm afflicted. It has to be right. Call me crazy.

[Kurt]

Why not go to Home Depot or Lowes with a Cape Dory color sample in hand and ask them to match it with an exterior latex or oil based semi gloss house paint? Minimum size would be a quart.
What's so unique about bilge paint?

[Maine Sail]

Why not just clean the existing gelcoat? Unfortunately there is NO paint, one or two part, that is impervious to water and odor penetration. Any paint sitting submerged will eventually peel and begin to flake off. Even Interlux will confirm that Bilge Kote is NOT water proof or odor proof...

If it were me, and I HAD to re-finish the bilge, I'd roll on fresh gelcoat or use Interlux 2000E barrier coat in white or gray..


Bellow is a picture of my 29 year old bilge! It has never been painted and the gelcoat is the original and almost 30 years old. I cleaned it this winter with the following cleaning supplies On & Off, MEK, Acetone, 3M Sharpshooter (Industrial Floor Cleaner great stuff), rags and Magic Erasers. I also had plenty of ventilation, a respirator and solvent proof gloves..

It took me far less time to actually restore the original gelcoat than it would have to properly clean and prep for paint and I'll never have paint flakes clogging my bilge pump!!

[Troy Scott]

Maine,

Your bilge looks great. (Now there's an ice-breaking come-on....)
Mine, unfortunately, after a cleaning regimen similar to yours, does not. Plus, there are changes/repairs which need to be blended in. I've got to do something. I tried something similar to gelcoat: a Sherwin-Williams two-part epoxy paint. I had bad luck with it. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to brush out smooth. I haven't tried gelcoat for this bilge project, but I haven't had very good luck with it in the past. I'll stick to paint here. If Bilgekote was available in Cape Dory Beige there would be NO QUESTION.

Your website is GREAT!