windlass accessories

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 11th, '07, 12:17

Folks,

I'm looking to install an electric windlass on IMAGINE, my CD36. I need input about the controls. I'm pretty sure I want a remote control. As for the other options, well...., I've never used a windlass, so I just don't know. I see in the various options lists:

Toggle Switch
Guarded Rocker Switch
Deck Switches
Hand Held Remote Control

In the past I've done a lot of single-handing, but never on a boat as large as this. Hopefully the electric windlass will help me as I strike out on my own. Please help me decide on a reasonable minimum of controls.

Len · Post by **Len** » Aug 12th, '07, 11:38

I have a remote on my Ideal windlass. I single hand and this works very well when trying to anchor in current or a blow. The control is mounted in the cockpit with a long stretch cable which allows me to steer and watch rode and control up/down at the same time. The big decision with the remote set up is whether you want remote up only or both power up and power down.

John Danicic · Post by **John Danicic** » Aug 12th, '07, 13:34

Troy:

Mariah has both the remote up/down control at the helm and a plug-in hand-held at the bow to control her "mostly chain" rode. I single handle her a lot and tend to go up to the bow with the handheld to watch how things progress. When anchoring, being on the bow lets me see how much chain is out and allows me to attach a devils claw to set the anchor, eliminating undo strain on the windlass. When retrieving, being on the bow allows me to remove sticks or seaweed from the rode, clean off the mud and make sure the anchor comes aboard gently.

I only tend to use the helm remote for retrieval if it is really blowing and need to motor up to the anchor or I am in a tight anchorage with little room for maneuvering mistakes. I have marked the rode with an bright orange piece of caution tape that I can see from the helm which tells me the anchor is out of the water though not in its holder. I can then maneuver about and then carefully draw it up the rest of the way when I am in the clear.

Using the helm remote for anchoring can get the anchor and rode down but I still need to get forward to attach the devils claw and determine if I am dragging while setting.

My advice to you is install them both. I figure that the permanently mounted helm control is the backup in case I loose the hand held. Both have their uses though the bow mounted hand hold in Mariah gets the most use.

Sail on.

John Danicic
CD 36 - Mariah - #124
Lake Superior

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 12th, '07, 13:45

John,

Do you have foot switches at the bow in addition to the remote?

jerryaxler · Post by **jerryaxler** » Aug 12th, '07, 14:14

We originally had a remote on Shana and switched to foot controls after remote after remote died in very short order. The contacts and male connectors corroded quickly and broke off some within weeks. Since the change we have been free of problems.

John Danicic · Post by **John Danicic** » Aug 12th, '07, 14:19

Troy:

No foot switches. I didn't want to cut any more big holes in the deck for them. I put the plug socket off to the side so it is out of the way. While at anchor, I clip the hand held to the life line and it is always handy for adjustments. It is stowed while sailing.

Sail on.

John Danicic
CD 36 - Mariah - #124
Lake Superior

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 13th, '07, 00:43

John,

Do you think a drum on top of the windlass would be in the way of the staysail boom (or anything else)?

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Aug 13th, '07, 03:16

My windlass is mounted in exactly the same location as Johns, and the teak base I made appears to be the same height, my windlass has a drum and does not interfere at all with the staysail boom (though I was very worried it would).

Kind of a story to it. Origonally I order a windlass without a drum since I was worried a drum couldnt work, I had measured and measured and really felt it wouldnt work.

I bought mine through defender, the low profile version I was convinced I needed, but they messed up and sent me the version with a drum. I called, arranged to send it back and have them send me the right one. Well the new one arrived, and it was still the one with a drum! So called again, explained they sent me the wrong one again, then again I sent it back and they sent me a new one, supposed to be the right one this time. Well, of course, it wasnt, again I got the windlass with the drum when I wanted the one without. Absolutely livid I called again, and explained that for the third time now I got the wrong windlass, and I am trying to set off in less then 2 weeks to sail to new england. They went out of their way this time, told me to keep what I have, and they will just send me the different parts to turn mine into a low profile version(which is what I wanted), drop shipped from Imtra (distributor for Lofrans), and to keep the extra parts for the drum version.

Well, sure enough I got the extra parts, and then some, they basicly sent me the entire low profile version of the windlass, just without the motor. I had looked at the parts diagrams and I only needed a couple peices, not a whole above deck assembly, but they sent the whole assembly anyways.

So, once I got the teak pad laid down and ready to install the windlass, since I still had the drum version of the windlass as well, I thought I would test it out, I laid it down, pulled out the staysail and messed with every possible situation, and sure enough the drum cleared with room to spare! So I ended up installing that one. Rather ironic considering the trouble I went through trying to get the low profile version I was actually trying to order, I ended up using the "wrong" setup the sent me in the first place. I did call and offer to send back the low profile version they sent me, but they declined, I got the impression that it was Imtras fault, not defenders, and defender didnt lose a dime on it nor did they care what Imtras loss might me. So I still have in a locker an entire extra windlass, sans motor.

Anyways, get the drum, it will fit. But in hindsight, after a lot of anchoring and living on anchor for the last 2 years, if I had it to do again, I would get a horizontal windlass, which would be tougher to fit on a CD36, but I would find a way. For heavy duty and versitility, they really are superior, especially in any situation where you have two bow anchors deployed. Also in case the motor fails the manual backup for a horizontal windlass is far superior to that of a manual. Consider being on your knees with a winch handle vs standing up with a bar with a ton of leverage. My motor has never failed, but I have tested the reality of taking up 200' of chain manually with my vertical windlass, and alls I can tell you is that I sure hope the motor never fails!

Another tip while I am at it. the anchor locker in my CD36 had a floor in it. In order to fit 300' of chain that floor had to be removed on the starboard side (port side only has 75' of chain, so it fit with its 200' of rode). But reguardless of how much chain you end up getting, I recommend removing that floor, there is deadspace below it and its better to get the weight lower anyways, even if you dont require the extra space. My 84 CD36 has a bow water tank under the v berth (older ones dont I think), when removing that floor the chain would lie on the water tank, which I was not cool with, so I made a barrier to enclose the locker with the floor removed, not a big job. Just something else to think about now while your boat is taken apart already.

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 15th, '07, 20:05

Russell, John, and All who have helped,

Thanks for all the input during my long search for the right windlass. I've ordered a Lewmar V3 with gypsy and drum. The V3 supposedly doesn't have the pressure arm problem the Maxwell has. Unlike the otherwise fine Simpson/Lawrence Sprint 1000 the V3 is in current production. And the V3 is said to pull very well. We'll see.

I have to build a bolster for the windlass to mount on. I'm still undecided about the controls. Some say foot controls are the only sensible plan. Others are happy with just a remote.....

I'm thinking I'd like to put a small battery in the forepeak in order to reduce the gauge of cable going forward, but I haven't worked through that yet.

Wanderlust · Post by **Wanderlust** » Aug 15th, '07, 21:22

While Im still getting used to a boat with a windlass, Ive noticed that several times Ive inadvertently pressed on the foot switches. This was disconcerting to say the least as I had the rode in my hands at the time while fussing with a snarl. I wouldnt say the I would eliminate the foot switches, but I might if it was my choice. I also have a remote and a cockpit switch which I may need to become more proficient at using.

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Aug 15th, '07, 21:30

I think I've seen some foot switches with covers. Which switches have you guys used?

Wanderlust · Post by **Wanderlust** » Aug 15th, '07, 21:42

Im sorry that I dont know what foot switches are on my boat. Im still learning its details. Its not that I stepped on the things while tending the jib or something, as at most times, the cockpit breaker has the windlass turned off. Its while Im using the windlass (when any protective covers would be off anyway) and temporarily need to do something like adjust the clutch or clear some crud that I lean forward while holding the nylon rode and the windlass kicks in. I think its my inexperience taking control and Ill just need to make it a habit to take my foot off the switch. One of those things, but I definitely could see an accident happening with a moments inattention.

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Aug 16th, '07, 16:31

Troy Scott wrote:I think I've seen some foot switches with covers. Which switches have you guys used?

My foot switches have covers, they are Imtra switches. Though they are kinda ugly and cheopo looking, but they function well. The lewmar ones look far nicer, wish I had used those. And definately, if you go the footswitch route, get one with a cover.

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