While commissioning the engine on my CD 27 VEGA III (hull #179) this Spring, I was confronted by an inspection bowl on my Racor filter that was so full of crud that I decided it was time to pull the tank and start over.
It turns out that getting at the tank is pretty easy to remove. On my boat it just basically slides out from under the port side bulkhead into the port locker. It is held by a simple wooden cleat/restrainer. That was the easy part.
The hard part is figuring out: 1) how to dispose of the fuel still in the tank safely and with minimal impact on the environment; and, 2) how to clean the tank. There is no inspection port on my tank although I can remove the hardware that holds the fuel gauge transducer and get access through a 1.5" hole.
What does one do to clean these things? Someone mentioned steam jetting. I would welcome any advice on this topic.
Jim
Advice on Cleaning Aluminum Fuel Tank CD-27
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Neil Kozlowski
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Feb 25th, '05, 21:29
- Location: CD330, Ariel, Annapolis MD
How I cleaned the tank on my CD28
I first emptied my tank and put the fuel in a fuel can. Since I had a diesel car at the time, I filtered the fuel and put it in my car. Since I was burning auto fuel in my boat at the time I was legal. Maybe you can filter the fuel and put it back in your boat if you can't find a more convenient way to get rid of it.
Anyway, the important part, I took my empty tank and put about a 5 foot chain in it ( keep one end in your hand) as a mechanical agitator, put some detergent and water in the tank, and shook the tank by hand. I kept doing this until the water came out soapy but clean. (You won't believe the garbage you will get on the first go around.) Then I rinsed the tank with fresh water until it came out clean. Then I let it dry for a couple of days with the sun beating on it. Your done, except for putting it back. You may be able to speed the drying process with a heat gun, although I didn't do that on my tank.
Good Luck
Anyway, the important part, I took my empty tank and put about a 5 foot chain in it ( keep one end in your hand) as a mechanical agitator, put some detergent and water in the tank, and shook the tank by hand. I kept doing this until the water came out soapy but clean. (You won't believe the garbage you will get on the first go around.) Then I rinsed the tank with fresh water until it came out clean. Then I let it dry for a couple of days with the sun beating on it. Your done, except for putting it back. You may be able to speed the drying process with a heat gun, although I didn't do that on my tank.
Good Luck
Neil Kozlowski
Ariel CD330 #146
Ariel CD330 #146
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Cleaning Aluminum Fuel Tank
Jim,
You ask what to do with your contaminated fuel. In our area, and I suppose in many other parts of the country, we take oily substances to the local, municipal town, city or county disposal site.
There, they have a storage tank to collect old oil from engine oil changes, etc. They encourage a person to bring the used oil to them rather than have him dispose of the oil in his own, devious way. It's a green thing. It's a good thing.
There are some service shops and auto repair garages that use the old, used oil to heat the building. #2 heating fuel is very close to diesel fuel. Once or twice, when stuck, I have poured five gallons of diesel into my heating fuel tank to get me through the night till a regular delivery comes.
As for cleaning the inside of an aluminum fuel tank;
I've always had good results when using steam. I think that you will find that most of the accumulation of crud is on the bottom of the tank. By comparison, the tank's walls are oily but comparatively free of deposits.
If you have the access to insert a steam jet nozzle into the tank and be able to play it around, you should be able to displace most of the crud.
The warm water (condensed steam) will soften any hard crust. If you securely attach a coarse cloth to an extension handle, you can scour the hardest accumulation.
I have heard of pouring several cans of carburetor cleaner into the tank, letting it soak a bit and then shaking or agitating the fuel tank to rinse the walls and bottom of any non fuel.
Good luck,
O J
You ask what to do with your contaminated fuel. In our area, and I suppose in many other parts of the country, we take oily substances to the local, municipal town, city or county disposal site.
There, they have a storage tank to collect old oil from engine oil changes, etc. They encourage a person to bring the used oil to them rather than have him dispose of the oil in his own, devious way. It's a green thing. It's a good thing.
There are some service shops and auto repair garages that use the old, used oil to heat the building. #2 heating fuel is very close to diesel fuel. Once or twice, when stuck, I have poured five gallons of diesel into my heating fuel tank to get me through the night till a regular delivery comes.
As for cleaning the inside of an aluminum fuel tank;
I've always had good results when using steam. I think that you will find that most of the accumulation of crud is on the bottom of the tank. By comparison, the tank's walls are oily but comparatively free of deposits.
If you have the access to insert a steam jet nozzle into the tank and be able to play it around, you should be able to displace most of the crud.
The warm water (condensed steam) will soften any hard crust. If you securely attach a coarse cloth to an extension handle, you can scour the hardest accumulation.
I have heard of pouring several cans of carburetor cleaner into the tank, letting it soak a bit and then shaking or agitating the fuel tank to rinse the walls and bottom of any non fuel.
Good luck,
O J
Simpler
Hi:
Depending on what condition your tank is in this may be an option.
I built a fuel polisher out of an old Racor filter, a cheap electric fuel pump and some hose. Mounted the whole thing on a piece of plywood and .... instant portable fuel polisher. I used a piece of copper icemaker line as a probe on the end of the flexible suction hose to get to the bottom of the tank.
Just pump out the old fuel with emphasis on getting the bottom stuff. If possible use a long handled scrub brush through the access hole to loosen up the stuff on the sides.
My old diesel was good enough after filtering to mix with some new fuel and use. Most of the water and crud is on the bottom so if you sneak up on it with the probe you can get it in the first quart that comes out.
You can reuse the system anytime you suspect water or crud forming in the tank. Another side benefit is it can used it to fill the tank from jerry jugs instead of trying to pour it in with a funnel. This guarantees clean water free fuel. I set the jerry cans on the dock and pump the new fuel into the tank. This way I can get fuel at the gas station and avoid marina fuel.
Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
Depending on what condition your tank is in this may be an option.
I built a fuel polisher out of an old Racor filter, a cheap electric fuel pump and some hose. Mounted the whole thing on a piece of plywood and .... instant portable fuel polisher. I used a piece of copper icemaker line as a probe on the end of the flexible suction hose to get to the bottom of the tank.
Just pump out the old fuel with emphasis on getting the bottom stuff. If possible use a long handled scrub brush through the access hole to loosen up the stuff on the sides.
My old diesel was good enough after filtering to mix with some new fuel and use. Most of the water and crud is on the bottom so if you sneak up on it with the probe you can get it in the first quart that comes out.
You can reuse the system anytime you suspect water or crud forming in the tank. Another side benefit is it can used it to fill the tank from jerry jugs instead of trying to pour it in with a funnel. This guarantees clean water free fuel. I set the jerry cans on the dock and pump the new fuel into the tank. This way I can get fuel at the gas station and avoid marina fuel.
Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
I had planned to clean and inspect my fuel tank this winter. Upon inspection I found that I had a couple of corrosion blisters on the bottom of the tank that had begun to weep. My tank would not come out in one piece so I removed the fuel and sawed it in half. I was surprised to find that the tank was absolutely spotless and shiny inside. There was no crud on the bottom as I had expected. What I did find was a mouse sized hunk of crud that was lose in the tank. If you were not very though you could easily miss a piece of crud like that even if you polished the fuel forever. Once again the tank looked brand new inside. That free drifting hunk could have worked it's way to the fuel intake with disastrous results. It almost seems like you would need a good sized inspection plate and a flashlight to fine a culprit like that. This year I will have a very clean fuel tank with 2 gallons less capacity that I am hopeful will fit into the boat without cutting anything this weekend. Let there be wind, Steve.
Thanks to all who have written In re: tank cleaning
To all who have shared ideas above-
Thanks to everyone who has written in on this topic. I've gotten some great advice as usual from all who have gone before.
Neal's idea of a chain in really innovative. I'm wondering if these tanks have baffles or barriers inside? If so the chain might not help reach other sections of the tank.
Boyd's fuel polisher idea is terrific. I think that I will try and build that gadget and see if I can use it going forward. I really like the application in terms of helping with filter changes etc.
I'm not sure I'm prepared to follow in Steve's path and saw the thing in half-but it gives me hope that maybe things aren't as bad inside as I feared.
I'll likely tackle this project this week and I'll let you all know what happens.
Jim
Thanks to everyone who has written in on this topic. I've gotten some great advice as usual from all who have gone before.
Neal's idea of a chain in really innovative. I'm wondering if these tanks have baffles or barriers inside? If so the chain might not help reach other sections of the tank.
Boyd's fuel polisher idea is terrific. I think that I will try and build that gadget and see if I can use it going forward. I really like the application in terms of helping with filter changes etc.
I'm not sure I'm prepared to follow in Steve's path and saw the thing in half-but it gives me hope that maybe things aren't as bad inside as I feared.
I'll likely tackle this project this week and I'll let you all know what happens.
Jim