Seacock service

[Ron M.]

I've got all my seacocks removed and have cleaned and lapped them. A couple of them show pitting from being in the closed position on the barrels. They have been turned in their seacocks with lapping compound and some pressure on the nut approx. 300 revolutions. I would estimate to remove all pitting would take a few thousand more turns but wonder if I may remove too much material. Is what I have about as good as it gets ? or should I continue ?.........any thoughts.......thanks
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Mercury voyager specifications

[Russell]

A few of mine have the same, a pitted area around where it sat closed for a long period. I was not able to fully get rid of it with lapping either. Ultimately I decided that it seemed to operate smoothly, and given the large surface area and thickness of the barrel I doubted it was much cause for concern. So I greesed them and put them back, no problems at all. Though something to keep an eye on, eventually in time they may need replacement, but I felt mine still have many years of reliable service in them.

[Ron M.]

Russell,
Thanks for your response. I guess the grease will fill the pits.
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Buddhism Dicussion

[ronkberg]

Hello folks and I need your coaching. My '73 Typhoon had gate valves in place and I am replacing them with seacocks. The boatyard suggested that I use 1" through hull, seacocks and 90degree elbows with hoses attached to the 3/4" cockpit drains. I have all parts ready to install and wonder when and how to lubricate? There are two screws into the seacock body that I assume will be removed and zerks installed to install grease, right? Then replace the zerks with screws until next year, right? Since they are brand new, do I need to grease 'em now or wait until next fall to lap 'n grease then?

I plan to use 5200 to bed the through hulls and pipe tape around the threaded fittings. Plan to install clear reinforced hose from Home Depot and double SS clamps. Reasonable plans?

Are my plans and assumptions valid or should I increase my life insurance and haul my inflatable behind me as I sail around Saco Bay?

Thanks for your responses.

Ron

[Anthony P. Jeske]

Hi Ronkberg:
My comments assume you're installing Spartan seacocks in your Typhoon. If not, you'll need to disregard some of this.
Since the seacocks are new, you won't have to lap them. In fact, if you regularly service them, they may never need lapping. The plugs on the sides of the seacock are water drains, used to drain the seacock when winterizing. Grease the seacock by disassambling it.
Finally, please DO NOT bed with 5200. That's for permanent beds only, like a deck to a hull. Any thing else which may ever conceivably be removed, use 4200 or Life Caulk. You, or the next owner, will be forever grateful you didn't use 5200.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-28 #365
NO REGRETS
San Diego

[Lew Gresham]

Ron, these are my gate valves I removed in order to service. They are original to the boat and work very good. O J, and I discussed the replacement sometime ago since I am doing the restoration. I decided not to spend the money for ball valves or seacocks. I may someday enlarge my through hulls and at that time I may change to ball valves rather than gate valves since they turn off quicker. I reinforce not using 5200 on the through hulls. Whatever you decide to do, you may like the idea of doing a cross over with the new hoses. Starboard cockpit drain to port valve and visa versa!

G'Luk!

Lew

[img]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p52/ ... s002-1.jpg[/img],

[ronkberg]

Tony, I planned to use 5200 because of the yard recommendation but will buy 4200 if that is better. Glad you gave me the feedback and will complete the job as soon as the Maine weather dries and warms up.

Lew, those are exactly what I removed to clean and lube. The handles were quite corroded but I'd planned to buy new handles. When I re-installed the lubricated gate valves, one was rather stiff and as I forced it, it broke. Thus the new seacocks. The through hull tubes came out easily when I cut the bottom paint away. By the way, the yard manager said the brass to 90degree plastic hose barb was a bad violation so I am going all metal.

Fairly easy DIY job but I will leave the hoses uncrossed as I use that area for storage.

Thanks again, Ron