If I have a trailer made for a Typhoon, is it better to get one with bunks or adjustable screw jacks. The boat ramps I mainly use are not steep and the boat will need to float off. I also will store the boat on the trailer in the winter, etc.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
Trailer question
Moderator: Jim Walsh
I prefer adjustable pads to bunks
Bill,
I personally prefer adjustable pads. Your boat is mainly sitting on it's keel and the pads are just balancing her.
You might consider getting an extra pad on each side so you can paint the bottom if you want to. With an extra pad you can lower one pad at a time to paint under the pad.
The one thing I would recommend is a tongue extension so you can get your boat into as deep water as possible.
Who will be building the trailer for you?
Gary
I personally prefer adjustable pads. Your boat is mainly sitting on it's keel and the pads are just balancing her.
You might consider getting an extra pad on each side so you can paint the bottom if you want to. With an extra pad you can lower one pad at a time to paint under the pad.
The one thing I would recommend is a tongue extension so you can get your boat into as deep water as possible.
Who will be building the trailer for you?
Gary
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Poppets Or Bunk Boards
Bill,
Both systems work quite well. I guess it's a matter of personal choice. Some owners like screw jack pads (poppets), others prefer bunk boards. It's something like which is better, vanilla or chocolate ice cream. It depends on who you're asking.
I have one of each and I find that each type has merits of it's own. Triad Trailer Mfg. Co. generally produces trailers with adjustable screw pads. Other mfgs go to bunk boards.
I find that once you adjust bunk boards to your individual hull, you dog them down extra tight. With the screw jack pads, they can be easily tweaked for precise support. This also allows you to use the trailer for hauling some other shaped hulls.
If there is one special thing that I like about using screw jack pads is when I'm working on the bottom. I can back off one pad at a time to get at that area and then move on to the next area.
If I may suggest one thing to you, when you have your trailer built, specify to the builder that you want an indented vee for the rear cross member, rather than a straight beam. This allows you to work on the rudder with no obstruction. Especially so if you ever have to drop the rudder and post in the future.
Good luck,
O J
Both systems work quite well. I guess it's a matter of personal choice. Some owners like screw jack pads (poppets), others prefer bunk boards. It's something like which is better, vanilla or chocolate ice cream. It depends on who you're asking.
I have one of each and I find that each type has merits of it's own. Triad Trailer Mfg. Co. generally produces trailers with adjustable screw pads. Other mfgs go to bunk boards.
I find that once you adjust bunk boards to your individual hull, you dog them down extra tight. With the screw jack pads, they can be easily tweaked for precise support. This also allows you to use the trailer for hauling some other shaped hulls.
If there is one special thing that I like about using screw jack pads is when I'm working on the bottom. I can back off one pad at a time to get at that area and then move on to the next area.
If I may suggest one thing to you, when you have your trailer built, specify to the builder that you want an indented vee for the rear cross member, rather than a straight beam. This allows you to work on the rudder with no obstruction. Especially so if you ever have to drop the rudder and post in the future.
Good luck,
O J
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Rollergirl
- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Indented Vee?
Hey OJ
Could you explain the Indented Vee for the rear cross member? I'm having trouble visualizing it.
My Ensign Triad has a straight rail from fore of the keel to 12" past the rudder (it was speced for a Sea Sprite 23') and I need to drop the rudder. I've worked out a way to do this, of course, but it requires a unseemly amount of work. If I could spend the same amount of effort and have a superior trailer, I'd be several stages less disgruntled.
Or so I think.
Bill Bloxham
Staring out the front door and cussin' the trailer
Barnaget Bay, NJ
PS: Got a picture? I'm a visual person.
Could you explain the Indented Vee for the rear cross member? I'm having trouble visualizing it.
My Ensign Triad has a straight rail from fore of the keel to 12" past the rudder (it was speced for a Sea Sprite 23') and I need to drop the rudder. I've worked out a way to do this, of course, but it requires a unseemly amount of work. If I could spend the same amount of effort and have a superior trailer, I'd be several stages less disgruntled.
Or so I think.
Bill Bloxham
Staring out the front door and cussin' the trailer
Barnaget Bay, NJ
PS: Got a picture? I'm a visual person.
* V *
Bill
Not exactly OJ but I'll take a shot at it.
Most trailers have straight beams as crossmembers between the side rails of the trailer. Some mfg's will go to a little extra trouble ( of course that's spelled $$$$$ ) to use a crossmember(s) with a depression under the keel. It's more convenient for a couple reasons ( lowers the boat, lower center of gravity - by inches but there none the less , easier to float on/off - again by inches, etc etc).
I imagine you could spec just the stern most crossmember for access to the rudder or all crossmembers for a slightly lower overall height. I also suspect some mfg's will work with you and some will stick with their preformed plans/jigs.
OJ will probably have more info and his reference to Triad represents one of the better ( spelled $$$$$ ) mfg's - and as a past owner of a Triad I'd attest to their quality also.
Good Luck . . .
Not exactly OJ but I'll take a shot at it.
Most trailers have straight beams as crossmembers between the side rails of the trailer. Some mfg's will go to a little extra trouble ( of course that's spelled $$$$$ ) to use a crossmember(s) with a depression under the keel. It's more convenient for a couple reasons ( lowers the boat, lower center of gravity - by inches but there none the less , easier to float on/off - again by inches, etc etc).
I imagine you could spec just the stern most crossmember for access to the rudder or all crossmembers for a slightly lower overall height. I also suspect some mfg's will work with you and some will stick with their preformed plans/jigs.
OJ will probably have more info and his reference to Triad represents one of the better ( spelled $$$$$ ) mfg's - and as a past owner of a Triad I'd attest to their quality also.
Good Luck . . .
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Rollergirl
- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Still murkey for me..
How do I get the rudder out?
I mean, without a grinder
Simple- minded Bill
I mean, without a grinder
Simple- minded Bill
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Indented Vee On Trailer
Hi Bill, Gary M and Bill2,
Oh boy, here we go. We were talking about apples. Then oranges entered the picture. Now we are discussing apples, oranges and kumquats.
I love it, really. Let me go a little farther.
Gary M's info is right on. There are a lot more things to include on the subject of trailers. It is a complete subject unto itself. So many little things to consider.
I do have a Triad trailer that is set up for a Ty. It has three screw pads on each side and a vee screw support for the cutwater.
Not to confuse anyone farther, but to make the cheese more binding, there are two different "vees" that are being discussed.
I have to confess to my computer illiteracy. I have a scanner but haven't got the foggiest idea how to use it. I bought a digital camera several years ago but haven't had the time to read the manual yet. It's still virgin. But that's okay, my granddaughter is coming home from college for Christmas vacation and she tells me that she'll whip me into shape, computerwise.
Let's talk about vee #1. This is the one that Bill2 is referring to. If you were to stand at the rear of the trailer, eye level to the top of the side beams running fore and aft, and looked forward, you would notice that the top surface of the beam that lies under the keel is about 1 1/2" or 2" lower than the top surface of the side rails. The cross members are high on the outsides and slope downward toward the center beam.
The second kind of vee, vee #2, has nothing to do with elevation. If you were standing on a ladder looking down on an empty trailer, all the cross members would seem to be straight across. Now imagine that the rearmost crossmember was removed. In it's place, two members were installed that ran from the rear end of each side rail to the center of the second cross member from the rear. This makes a vee instead of a straight across crossmember.
In thinking of Bill's trailer, perhaps you could have the beam running fore and aft under the keel shortened to where it ends about 6" ahead of the rudder post shoe. Then you could reinforce the aft end of the trailer with the vee setup.
Sorry that I can't send in any pictures or drawn diagrams of what I'm talking about. However, over a year or two ago, someone did send in a dozen or so photos of different styles and variations of boat trailers. There are several shots of this stern vee in the archives. Maybe someone can help us out in locating these.
By the way, I have an Ensign sitting in my yard as I speak. I thought it was sold a year or so ago, but the guy reneged. One of these fine springs, I'll get hot on it.
FWIW, I have another trailer that is one of my favorites. It has tandem heavy duty axles and is made of aluminum. It will never rust no matter how many times it's immersed. It's a prime example of overkill for the Ty Weekender sitting on it. But I digress, don't I?
Oh yes, I almost forgot the kumquats. How does one remove the rudder assembly without grinding. There are two ways that I have used, one better than the next. If I were to mention them, it would be considered sacrilegious and I could be excommunicated from the CDSOA.
I'll never tell. My lips are sealed. I can give you a little hint though. You might measure the depth of the gudgeon and consider removing that much plus a tad more from the top of the rudder blade. But I never said that, and if I'm accused of it, I'll lie through my teeth. Besides, I just sent in my dues and I'm not sure if the powers that be will give me a refund if I get the old heave ho.
Have fun,
O J
Oh boy, here we go. We were talking about apples. Then oranges entered the picture. Now we are discussing apples, oranges and kumquats.
I love it, really. Let me go a little farther.Gary M's info is right on. There are a lot more things to include on the subject of trailers. It is a complete subject unto itself. So many little things to consider.
I do have a Triad trailer that is set up for a Ty. It has three screw pads on each side and a vee screw support for the cutwater.
Not to confuse anyone farther, but to make the cheese more binding, there are two different "vees" that are being discussed.
I have to confess to my computer illiteracy. I have a scanner but haven't got the foggiest idea how to use it. I bought a digital camera several years ago but haven't had the time to read the manual yet. It's still virgin. But that's okay, my granddaughter is coming home from college for Christmas vacation and she tells me that she'll whip me into shape, computerwise.Let's talk about vee #1. This is the one that Bill2 is referring to. If you were to stand at the rear of the trailer, eye level to the top of the side beams running fore and aft, and looked forward, you would notice that the top surface of the beam that lies under the keel is about 1 1/2" or 2" lower than the top surface of the side rails. The cross members are high on the outsides and slope downward toward the center beam.
The second kind of vee, vee #2, has nothing to do with elevation. If you were standing on a ladder looking down on an empty trailer, all the cross members would seem to be straight across. Now imagine that the rearmost crossmember was removed. In it's place, two members were installed that ran from the rear end of each side rail to the center of the second cross member from the rear. This makes a vee instead of a straight across crossmember.
In thinking of Bill's trailer, perhaps you could have the beam running fore and aft under the keel shortened to where it ends about 6" ahead of the rudder post shoe. Then you could reinforce the aft end of the trailer with the vee setup.
Sorry that I can't send in any pictures or drawn diagrams of what I'm talking about. However, over a year or two ago, someone did send in a dozen or so photos of different styles and variations of boat trailers. There are several shots of this stern vee in the archives. Maybe someone can help us out in locating these.
By the way, I have an Ensign sitting in my yard as I speak. I thought it was sold a year or so ago, but the guy reneged. One of these fine springs, I'll get hot on it.
FWIW, I have another trailer that is one of my favorites. It has tandem heavy duty axles and is made of aluminum. It will never rust no matter how many times it's immersed. It's a prime example of overkill for the Ty Weekender sitting on it. But I digress, don't I?
Oh yes, I almost forgot the kumquats. How does one remove the rudder assembly without grinding. There are two ways that I have used, one better than the next. If I were to mention them, it would be considered sacrilegious and I could be excommunicated from the CDSOA.
I'll never tell. My lips are sealed. I can give you a little hint though. You might measure the depth of the gudgeon and consider removing that much plus a tad more from the top of the rudder blade. But I never said that, and if I'm accused of it, I'll lie through my teeth. Besides, I just sent in my dues and I'm not sure if the powers that be will give me a refund if I get the old heave ho.
Have fun,
O J
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tartansailor
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Centrifical fource
The bunk type boat trailers we are familiar with have the bunks supported vertically up from the frame.
The sailboat trailers have screw jacks pointing at an angle inwards.
It seems to me that if you are rounding a curve at speed, with bunks supporting the trailer, the boat just might be heavy enough to tip. IMHO
Dick
The sailboat trailers have screw jacks pointing at an angle inwards.
It seems to me that if you are rounding a curve at speed, with bunks supporting the trailer, the boat just might be heavy enough to tip. IMHO
Dick
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RIKanaka
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Jun 8th, '05, 10:22
- Location: 1988 CD26 #73 "Moku Ahi" (Fireboat), Dutch Harbor, RI
Picture of "indented vee rear cross-member"
Aloha,
Bob Chinn
Bob Chinn
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Indented Vee Cross Member
Bob,
Excellent shot. One picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks,
O J
Excellent shot. One picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks,
O J
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Rollergirl
- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Got it, and Don't got it...
I see the concept. Thanks.
Now what's all that stuff aft of the axle for? Driveway resurfacing? Ultimate License plate holder? "I make the kids sit back there"?
Totaly Missing The Point Bill
Barnaget Bay, NJ
53 degrees today, and winter in less then a week. Must be that new incense I'm burning...
Now what's all that stuff aft of the axle for? Driveway resurfacing? Ultimate License plate holder? "I make the kids sit back there"?
Totaly Missing The Point Bill
Barnaget Bay, NJ
53 degrees today, and winter in less then a week. Must be that new incense I'm burning...
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RIKanaka
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Jun 8th, '05, 10:22
- Location: 1988 CD26 #73 "Moku Ahi" (Fireboat), Dutch Harbor, RI
Ultimate license plate holder
I guess the horizontal-vee crossmember seems a little superfluous. However if you wanted to add some bunk or screw pad supports at the back of the trailer it gives you that option. My own Ty just hangs 4' off the end of the vertical-vee crossmember.
Aloha,
Bob Chinn
Bob Chinn
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Super Duper License Plate Holder
Hi all,
What a lot of people do, myself included, is use the rearmost steel in the vee to support a wooden, 2"x6" carpeted fence on either side. This vee shaped fence guides the bow of the hull to the middle of the trailer and helps keep it centered as it floats forward on the trailer.
O J
What a lot of people do, myself included, is use the rearmost steel in the vee to support a wooden, 2"x6" carpeted fence on either side. This vee shaped fence guides the bow of the hull to the middle of the trailer and helps keep it centered as it floats forward on the trailer.
O J