Just Looking Old CD 28 Problems

[FJMelick]

Hi all: New to the group and have a question about an older CD 28 that I looked at. The boat has a couple of issues. I don't know how it is constructed but the problem is as follows.The problem is on both sides of the boat about 1 to 2 inches below the rub rail on the side of the hull and in line with the shroud attachment points. There are a couple of spider cracks that look like something has pushed or is pushing from the interior of the boat and has cracked the area in a spider web configuration. It looks like it was hit from the inside. The area is about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. It looks like water may have gotten inside in an area that could not drain and maybe froze and pushed on the glasss and cracked it. I have not had a chance to inspect the boat from inside so I don't know how much access there is to the area around the chain plates and bulkheads. Are there any drawings available on the web site for this section of the boat?

Thanks

Fred

[Neil Gordon]

Fred,

There are drawings of the chain plate arrangement on this site. Their in the owner's manual, I think. Poke around; if you can't find them someone will point you to them.

If you're serious about the boat, get it surveyed. Chances are the damage is cosmetic and/or easily repaired.

I can't imagine how it would be internal/ice damage. Impact from the outside would be my guess.

[Stan W.]

You are probably looking at the results of severe corrosion on the carbon steel backing plates under the padeyes Cape Dory used instead of real chainplates, or a crude repair job on the same. This is the CD 28's Achilles heel.

The good news is there is almost nothing that can go wrong with a hull made out of frozen snot that can't be fixed with more frozen snot. If you are sufficiently motivated, you can grind out the old backing plates, repair the hull damage and glass in new backing plates. The biggest challenge will be difficult access to the inside of the hull.

Here is the link to the on-line manual. Go to page 18, Diagram D 2.1-4(a) to see a cross-section of the so-called chainplates.

http://www.capedory.org/manuals/CD25-1978-Manual.pdf

[Neil Gordon]

You are probably looking at the results of severe corrosion on the carbon steel backing plates under the padeyes Cape Dory used instead of real chainplates, or a crude repair job on the same.

I can understand how a bad repair job might impact/extend to the exterior gelcoat. How does corrosion on the inside affect the outside?

[Stan W.]

Neil:

As you know, this is not my area of expertise. However, I do know that iron expands when it oxidizes, sometimes a lot. With nowhere else to go, this expansion could put enough pressure against the inside of the hull to cause spiderweb cracks to appear on the outside.

[Neil Gordon]

"Another problem occurs when ironwork is anchored in damp stonework. As the iron rusts it expands to many times its original size, exerting pressure on the stone and ultimately shattering the stone."

[paul marko]

My 77 cd 28 has had these spider cracks after winter storage in an Annapolis Md and Vermont boat yard(gets cold in those parts). I found that the chain plates had been poorly glassed in and had some voids which when filled with water froze and expanded.

Access to the chain plates is on the starboard side is through the closet and on the port side behind the medicine cabinet over the head. Both these access pts are too small. I enlarged them, and ground out the voids, added some extra layers of glass cloth and am still sailing her since 77. The cracks have not enlarged and the reinforced area is stronger than origin. In short ,it is not a real big deal.

[FJMelick]

Paul:
Thanks for the reply. I guess I really need to get onboard and take a look from inside. This boat is also a 1977.

Thanks to all for your replies.

Great board.

Fair winds Friends.

Fred