Typhoon restoration

[Tom Q]

I have a 1981 Typhoon Weekender (new to me) and need some advise on a few issues.
1. on cabin top the black plastic t track is missing on one side. Where can I get replacement track and fairlead car.

2. How is jib sheet rigged and cleated? Are the cleats on cabin top used for the main and jib halyards plus jib sheets?

3. The teak toerails and rubstrakes are missing and need to be replaced. Is ipe wood a suitable replacement wood? Will it bend to shape of boat?

4. I need to get a Headsail Jib or Genoa? Any recommendations? What is the most common sail size for Genoa 150%?

Thank you
Tom Q

[Zach]

Did you find a replacement for the track yet?

I have been looking and haven't found any 15" long to match broken ones on a Typhoon also.

I hope I do not have to cut them myself

[Neil Gordon]

My quick google search shows aluminum track readily available in various sizes at standard lengths of 2 and 4 meters. It's easy to cut and 2 meters would be enough for two 15" tracks.

[bhartley]

I replaced our Ty's rub/toe rails with teak. It was actually reasonably priced (by boating standards). I had the teak ripped to 1" stock from a 10' piece. I had a local cabinet shop do the millwork as I was running behind schedule.

One scarf joint in each piece glued up w/Gorilla Glue. Counter bore the holes (I switched to 7" from the 8" of the original to avoid the prior holes that had been filled with epoxy). I was amazed at how easy it was to bend into place. We did it with two people, but one could do it.

The pieces were dry fit first, removed and then bedded with Boatlife caulk. The prep of the previous holes took far longer than the actual work.

I would recommend putting down masking tape right up against the rails when dry-fitted. It will make the oozed out caulk faster to clean up. Let it get good and cured (2 days) before you trim the excess with a putty knife for a much faster cleanup.

[Dick Villamil]

I replaced most of the rub rails on my Ty and also bought a teak board 7 feet long, ripped out 1" wide strips and then scarfed the pieces together - use a scarf joint about 6" long and I wiped the scarf with acetone then used West Epoxy to attach together. finish cand before installing. I also use dan adhesive caulk to give a more permanent bond - West Marine Multipurpose caulk worked fine. Be sure to cut in a relief groove on the side that attaches to the hull - gives the caulking a place to stay thick when attaching. It was more fun with 3 people - two for the actual work and one to follow and wipe off the extra caulk or fetch a tool or screw etc. Once you start you don't want to stop but it only took a few hours to attach both sides. I have used IPE for other parts but it is tough to rip since it is so oily.

[Mike Wainfeld]

[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 4c82d3.jpg[/img]

[Mike Wainfeld]

[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... d352b8.jpg[/img]

As you guessed the halyards go to the cleats on the cabin top. The jibsheets go thru a fairlead on cabin top tracks. Originally they were tied off to the the coaming cleats, as seen above I installed the cam cleats seen in the previous photo.
As for the size of the headsail, I use a working (100%) hanked on jib, and go to the asymmetrical spinnaker if the wind are light. I usually have a nice seabreeze where I sail, so I don't use the genoa. I have heard that the boat sails well with reefed main and genoa, though. But I find its actually easier to put up the Flasher than change headsails. So there are a few options, depending on the local conditions.
MikeW