Greetings from sunny Baghdad. Not much sailing but there is plenty of wind today.
I removed the original flat handrails on the cabin top from my CD28 and I want to replace them with raised one with the cutouts so you can tie things to them and whatnot. I have seen premade teak rails for reasonable prices but the raised fiberlass where the rails screw in is not straight... it curves inward on both sides. Are premade rails flexible enough to be bent to fit or do I need to have custom pieces made. The boat has been sitting uncovered for 4 months with the pieces off so I am concerned about water entering the deck through the screw holes so I'm going to have the yard do it in either case I think.
Has anyone dealt with this?
New handrails for 79 CD 28
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
RichMason
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Jun 14th, '05, 14:10
- Location: CD28 s/v Su Lan #228
Washington, NC (McCotter's Marina)
New handrails for 79 CD 28
Rich Mason
-
Anthony P. Jeske
- Posts: 146
- Joined: Feb 11th, '05, 10:33
- Location: C&C 27 MkV
FLYING CIRCUS
Cabin top Hand rails
Rich:
Yes, you shouldn't let the rain leak in through those open screw holes. I think you'll find that the spacing of the holes in your cabin top doesn't match the spacing of the loops in the off the shelf handrail.
I had to make a set for my last CD-28. If you're handy at all, it's a very doable job.
Don Casey's great book, "This Old Boat" has a section on how to make some.
While you're at it, be sure to rework the screw holes to prevent core delamination case of leaks. Are you aware of this technique? Enlarge the current hole, fill with expoxy and then redrill the proper size hole? The Gougeon Brothers book, "Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance" covers this and other neat stuff too.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
Yes, you shouldn't let the rain leak in through those open screw holes. I think you'll find that the spacing of the holes in your cabin top doesn't match the spacing of the loops in the off the shelf handrail.
I had to make a set for my last CD-28. If you're handy at all, it's a very doable job.
Don Casey's great book, "This Old Boat" has a section on how to make some.
While you're at it, be sure to rework the screw holes to prevent core delamination case of leaks. Are you aware of this technique? Enlarge the current hole, fill with expoxy and then redrill the proper size hole? The Gougeon Brothers book, "Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance" covers this and other neat stuff too.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
-
John Martin
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Jan 10th, '06, 18:10
- Location: CD31, 1985, #85, CARINA
Hi Rich,
I would say ditto to what Tony said above. While you are at it, think about adding hand rails to the INSIDE of the boat. You may be able to use the OLD handrails on the inside. You will have to use longer bolts, and some sort of spacer for the inside. We did this on our CD28 Intrepid. It was the best addition to boat.
John
I would say ditto to what Tony said above. While you are at it, think about adding hand rails to the INSIDE of the boat. You may be able to use the OLD handrails on the inside. You will have to use longer bolts, and some sort of spacer for the inside. We did this on our CD28 Intrepid. It was the best addition to boat.
John
John & Nancy Martin
Sailing on Lake Lanier just NE of Atlanta
CD31 #85 "Carina" 1985
Sailing on Lake Lanier just NE of Atlanta
CD31 #85 "Carina" 1985
-
Ben Thomas
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:17
- Location: 82 CD30 Milagro Hull #248
grab rails
A very doable DIY project. All previous posts are right on.
On my CD30 the top side grab rails are flat pieces of teak. The distance between mounting screws worked out to be the same distance between hand holds on the new grab rails.
I wanted interior grab rails as well, on both sides of salon ceiling. It worked out by drilling all the way through cabin top (oversize holes filled with epoxy then redrill correct size 1/4")
Now I have top and interior grab rails that are sandwiched togeather by 1/4" studs cut from longer stock. Topside nuts are hidden with bungs, interior rails were counter sunk as well with recessed acorn nuts and washers.
Now crew have something to hold on to under way below deck.
Compression of liner was not an issue as I had worked epoxy into the recess around holes.
They worked so well I mounted two shorter rails on either side of forward V-berth hatch top side.
Be safe! Ben
On my CD30 the top side grab rails are flat pieces of teak. The distance between mounting screws worked out to be the same distance between hand holds on the new grab rails.
I wanted interior grab rails as well, on both sides of salon ceiling. It worked out by drilling all the way through cabin top (oversize holes filled with epoxy then redrill correct size 1/4")
Now I have top and interior grab rails that are sandwiched togeather by 1/4" studs cut from longer stock. Topside nuts are hidden with bungs, interior rails were counter sunk as well with recessed acorn nuts and washers.
Now crew have something to hold on to under way below deck.
Compression of liner was not an issue as I had worked epoxy into the recess around holes.
They worked so well I mounted two shorter rails on either side of forward V-berth hatch top side.
Be safe! Ben
New handrails for 79 CD 28
It is possible to steambend teak so one way or another you should be able to get them to take the necessary curve.
I too prefer the look and functionality of the open loop handrails used on later CD 28s and have even thought about grinding the molded-in ridge on my boat right off. In the end, however, I have concluded that this is way more trouble than it's worth and have decided to live with the flat handrails. At least they are easier to varnish.
I would love to see how this project comes out so please post a picture when it is done.
I too prefer the look and functionality of the open loop handrails used on later CD 28s and have even thought about grinding the molded-in ridge on my boat right off. In the end, however, I have concluded that this is way more trouble than it's worth and have decided to live with the flat handrails. At least they are easier to varnish.
I would love to see how this project comes out so please post a picture when it is done.
Stan,
You could remove your existing flat handrails and replace them with the more traditional "open loop" type.I don't think they would look bad at all even atop the raised section that is there.Try and use the screw holes that exist when you layout the new ones and do a proper epoxy job through the balsa core.
I replaced mine with 7 loop rails last year for about $160,worth of 5/4 teak and ss hardware.(of course my labor is free)They are far superior in appearance and functionability to those flat ones.Also installed 2 loop rails atop the teak hatch slides both sides of the companionway.
I don't believe there is a piece of teak installed on a CD that requires steam bending
________
HASH HONEY OIL
You could remove your existing flat handrails and replace them with the more traditional "open loop" type.I don't think they would look bad at all even atop the raised section that is there.Try and use the screw holes that exist when you layout the new ones and do a proper epoxy job through the balsa core.
I replaced mine with 7 loop rails last year for about $160,worth of 5/4 teak and ss hardware.(of course my labor is free)They are far superior in appearance and functionability to those flat ones.Also installed 2 loop rails atop the teak hatch slides both sides of the companionway.
I don't believe there is a piece of teak installed on a CD that requires steam bending
________
HASH HONEY OIL