How much hose for holding tank pump out?

[RichMason]

I've just purchased a 79 CD28 and the survey identified a few items that I need to repair before I move the boat from VA to NC. One key item is that the hose from the holding tank to the thru-deck fitting is missing. I'm planning a work weekend over the 4th to fix the remaining problems and I want to carry enough hose and clamps with me to do the job. Can someone tell me how much hose of what size I will need to reconnect the tank? Currently, the only available option is over the side!

[Stan W.]

I'm always curious about other 1979 28s because it seems Cape Dory made a lot of running changes during that model year. My boat is hull no. 225 built in October 1978. What is your hull no. and month of build? Month of build is determined by the last letter in your hull id no. A = September, B = October, etc.

As far as the hose, it should be 1-1/2 inch i.d. but I don't know exactly how long and I probably won't be on my boat until Saturday. If no one chimes in with a more precise measure, my estimate is that 5 feet would cover it.

What kind of hose are you going to use? The "white stuff" is popular but it is a colossal p.i.t.a. to work with. I tried using it to replace the waste hoses on my boat and gave up, but that was before I knew you have to heat it to get it to do anything. There is a black rubber alternative but I don't know how well it works.

Finally, make sure the holding tank vent hose is clear.

[Stan W.]

I forgot to mention that there should be a diverter or Y valve allowing you to choose between thru-hull or deck pump out. Whether you have one and where it is located will affect the length of hose you need.

[RichMason]

Thanks for the information. The boat is number 228 with 79C as the last three digits of the id. As for different options depending on the mood of the builder, my boat has a clear solid piece of lexan or other plastic over where the rear hatch should be. It was delivered new this way.

[Stan W.]

The owners of hull #s 226 and 227 are also more or less active on this board.

Your hull # means your boat was built in November 1978 as a 1979 model. I have seen other 28s with plexiglass over the midship hatch, but I always assumed that was because it costs about $600.00 to replace a Bomar when it breaks.

My boat came well equipped: fresh water cooling, hot and cold pressure water, shore power, dual batteries, Bomar midship hatch. However, it still has plastic laminate on the bulkheads. I've never seen an older 28 with real teak and I've never seen one from the 80s without real teak. It seems like the break point was sometime in 79. It also might have been an extra cost option for a while before it became standard. It would be very interesting to see a sales brochure and price list from that time period.

[Neil Gordon]

My '77 has plexiglass in lieu of a mid cabin hatch.

[RichMason]

The white hose lived up to its billing as extremely hard to work with. I replaced all of the sanitation hose on the boat. Turns out the PO had routed the pump out hose back to a bilge pump, which lead to the overboard seacock. Head led directly to holding tank. I bought 15 feet but 10 would have been enough. I added a Jabsco y-valve to select between overboard and holding tank and reconnected pump-out. I can't believe how bad it all smelled as the hose was original and the tank is not completely empty. I had to add two 90' plastic elbows to make the ultra-stiff hose turn from the back of the head and through the bulkhead.

Not to be too graphic but I am quite surprised that all of this works with only a 1.5 ID. I hope that my 90 degree bends don't jam up the works further but I saw no other option without cutting a larger hole in the cabinet behind the head.

[Steve Laume]

I did all the sanitation hose on my CD-30 this past winter. What a bear of a job!! I got the white hose because I thought it looked better and hey it was a little bit cheaper. There are some increadibly tight bends onto the fittings at the holding tank on the CD-30. I finally had to get some black hose to be able to make the connection and then I ran a coupling into the white hose I had already paid for and installed under the stove and setee up to the head. The black hose is well worth the extra $ for ease of installation. Yes I did heat it and soap it and it was still very difficult to install the white stuff. I was able to make all the connections to head and Y valve with the white hose so I still have white where it shows. After working with both types it is not worth it to use the white stuff. It sure feels good to have it done. Good luck, Steve.