CD36 need to replace fuel tank.
Moderator: Jim Walsh
CD36 need to replace fuel tank.
I've discovered a small leak in my fuel tank. Has anyone out there replaced theirs recently? Did you need to fabricate a new one or is there and off the shelf solution?
Also, the tank needs to come out of the Port cockpit locker and of course the opening is too small. I am planning on having to cut a section out of the vertical wall that is facing in to the cockpit well in order to be able to pull it out. Then I'll repair the wall after the new one is in.
Any thoughts on this process would be appreciated.
Pat
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Also, the tank needs to come out of the Port cockpit locker and of course the opening is too small. I am planning on having to cut a section out of the vertical wall that is facing in to the cockpit well in order to be able to pull it out. Then I'll repair the wall after the new one is in.
Any thoughts on this process would be appreciated.
Pat
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________
BMW 700 HISTORY
Last edited by patturner on Feb 15th, '11, 21:26, edited 2 times in total.
Replacing fuel tank
There's a lot in the arhcives about this. Florida Tank in Ft. Lauderdale made the originals and can replace the original exactly as they are still in business. While you're at it consider replacing all the hoses and putting in a fuel polishing set up. That's what I did.
-
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Feb 8th, '05, 11:12
- Location: 27' Cape Dory (Alerion),
9' Dyer,
Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Cutting up your cockpit fiberglass?
Pat,
I would avoid at (almost) all costs cutting up your cockpit to do a tank replacement. The old tank could easily be cut into pieces in order to remove it. I'd then search for a tank that would fit down through the locker opening as is. Just a a suggestion. Good luck with whatever you decide upon,
Kurt
I would avoid at (almost) all costs cutting up your cockpit to do a tank replacement. The old tank could easily be cut into pieces in order to remove it. I'd then search for a tank that would fit down through the locker opening as is. Just a a suggestion. Good luck with whatever you decide upon,
Kurt
Florida Tank?
Have tried to locate that buisness, but no luck so far. Tom, do you have a number for that company?
Pat
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Pat
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Last edited by patturner on Feb 15th, '11, 21:26, edited 2 times in total.
- fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
- Location: SunShine S2 11c
- Contact:
For all,
Florida Marine Tank
16480 NW 48th Avenue
Miami, Florida
33014
PHONE (305) 620-9030
http://floridamarinetanks.com/
EMAIL Info@FloridaMarineTanks.com
Don't get tanked,
Fred B.
Florida Marine Tank
16480 NW 48th Avenue
Miami, Florida
33014
PHONE (305) 620-9030
http://floridamarinetanks.com/
EMAIL Info@FloridaMarineTanks.com
Don't get tanked,
Fred B.
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
Thanks for the tank info !.....NM
Last edited by patturner on Feb 15th, '11, 21:26, edited 2 times in total.
- David VanDenburgh
- Posts: 117
- Joined: Feb 8th, '05, 02:11
- Location: Ariel
CD 36, #7
Lake Michigan - Contact:
Ahoy, Webmistress
Cathy, Shouldn't this information for Florida Marine Tank be put in the "Where to Look" section?
Oh, and Patrick, Fenix beat me to a reply, but before I pulled my tank out and discovered the Florida Marine Tank label on it with the info, I priced having a new one made locally. Just about any tank place can make one up for you for about the same price Florida Tank charges (between two and three hundred dollars). If you need it a little thinner to get it in the cockpit locker opening, it would be easy to do. On my 31 the 20 gallon tank came out through the locker opening by turning it on the side and maneuvering around the hose fittings. Didn't have to cut anything. If yours won't pass through you might be able to remove the wood coaming and notch a little bit there to get it out and then cover the cut with the coaming when you put it back. You probably know that diesel and stainless steel don't mix if you decide to have one made. There's info in the archives on that also. Good luck.
Oh, and Patrick, Fenix beat me to a reply, but before I pulled my tank out and discovered the Florida Marine Tank label on it with the info, I priced having a new one made locally. Just about any tank place can make one up for you for about the same price Florida Tank charges (between two and three hundred dollars). If you need it a little thinner to get it in the cockpit locker opening, it would be easy to do. On my 31 the 20 gallon tank came out through the locker opening by turning it on the side and maneuvering around the hose fittings. Didn't have to cut anything. If yours won't pass through you might be able to remove the wood coaming and notch a little bit there to get it out and then cover the cut with the coaming when you put it back. You probably know that diesel and stainless steel don't mix if you decide to have one made. There's info in the archives on that also. Good luck.
- Bob Ohler
- Posts: 610
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 14:11
- Location: CD30 1984 Hull# 335 Aloha Spirit, Chesapeake Bay
Dave Sabourin... CD36 fuel tank replacement
Dave Sabourin did this replacement about a year or two ago on board Mad Hatter. I believe he can really help advise anyone with this project. Dave... are you out there?
Where is David Sabourin?
Dave is currently sailing to Block Island. He plans on stopping along the way and has access to the web somehow. He has promissed to keep us abreast of his progress so I imagine he will be around soon.
Fiberglass fuel tanks....?
First, thanks for the responses so far.
It has been suggested by a couple of members that I build a wood/fiberglass tank. I had been thinking of this, but was told by a guy at Tap plastic that most resins are not solvent resistant and that if the tank is not fabricated using a special aviation type epoxy that it will eventually turn in to a sticky mess. It's the first I'd heard of this - any comments out there?
So far I'm leaning towards cutting up the existing tank - in place - and then having a new one made with some slight modifications to the original dimensions in order to retain the tankage.
Pat
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It has been suggested by a couple of members that I build a wood/fiberglass tank. I had been thinking of this, but was told by a guy at Tap plastic that most resins are not solvent resistant and that if the tank is not fabricated using a special aviation type epoxy that it will eventually turn in to a sticky mess. It's the first I'd heard of this - any comments out there?
So far I'm leaning towards cutting up the existing tank - in place - and then having a new one made with some slight modifications to the original dimensions in order to retain the tankage.
Pat
________
Glass Pipes
________
NEW MEXICO MARIJUANA DISPENSARIES
Last edited by patturner on Feb 15th, '11, 21:26, edited 2 times in total.
- David Sabourin
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 16:22
- Location: Mad HatterII CD36 Hull#151 1988
Tracy's Creek, Maryland
Fuel Tank Replacement
To All,
I did replace my fuel tank two years ago.......however, it was located under the cabin sole along the center line between the bilge access to the rear and the access point to the mast step.
I had a local guy, who was excellent, cut the sole out and pulled the tank in tact. I replace it with the same configuration with one that Luther Welding, I think that was the name, from RI made. They still had the original shop drawing of the factory installed tanks. I think that Florida tank was the mfgr. I just verified that all the dimensions were the same as the drawing and they built it for me....about $700 and that included shipping. It had the same fittings etc so all the hoses were an exact fit with no changes needed. It holds 50gals if you can fill it completly....I think about 47 gals is all I could get in it....so it sounds like you have a 36 model that has a different configuration than mine..which is an '88 model.
feel free to contact me at my email address if there is anything else I can help with.
David
I did replace my fuel tank two years ago.......however, it was located under the cabin sole along the center line between the bilge access to the rear and the access point to the mast step.
I had a local guy, who was excellent, cut the sole out and pulled the tank in tact. I replace it with the same configuration with one that Luther Welding, I think that was the name, from RI made. They still had the original shop drawing of the factory installed tanks. I think that Florida tank was the mfgr. I just verified that all the dimensions were the same as the drawing and they built it for me....about $700 and that included shipping. It had the same fittings etc so all the hoses were an exact fit with no changes needed. It holds 50gals if you can fill it completly....I think about 47 gals is all I could get in it....so it sounds like you have a 36 model that has a different configuration than mine..which is an '88 model.
feel free to contact me at my email address if there is anything else I can help with.
David
- David Sabourin
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 16:22
- Location: Mad HatterII CD36 Hull#151 1988
Tracy's Creek, Maryland
Re: Where is David Sabourin?
I leave for Block Island this Friday from Cape May.....and I will have internet access via my laptop and a Verizon wireless broadband card.....so I will be reading email regularly and posting progress if anyone is interested.Anonymous wrote:Dave is currently sailing to Block Island. He plans on stopping along the way and has access to the web somehow. He has promissed to keep us abreast of his progress so I imagine he will be around soon.
David
tank replacement
Pat
Several years ago I had to replace the fuel ( gas ) tank on another Alberg ( a Triton ) . I also wanted a larger tank and to spend very little money doing it. The answer was a stock off the shelf plastic tank. To get the old tank out in one piece I cut the starboard cockpit seat. I didn't want to try cutting the old tank up with gas fumes and such. After the first cut it was easy to make the new access large enough for a larger stock replacement. The only deal was that I had to learn to do fiberglass work to build a new tank support and repair the cuts to the cockpit seat. Sounds like a big deal - not really. Kids did ( or still do ? ) repairs to their fiberglass surf boards all the time with little to no training. To be safe I did overbuild the repairs ( oak framing tabbed and screwed as much as possible ) . To my knowledge they are still holding and it didn't take but a couple afternoons - more to measure and think/plan as I recall. While not a small job - you certainly don't want any leaks or failures - I would do it again if need be.
Good Luck !
Several years ago I had to replace the fuel ( gas ) tank on another Alberg ( a Triton ) . I also wanted a larger tank and to spend very little money doing it. The answer was a stock off the shelf plastic tank. To get the old tank out in one piece I cut the starboard cockpit seat. I didn't want to try cutting the old tank up with gas fumes and such. After the first cut it was easy to make the new access large enough for a larger stock replacement. The only deal was that I had to learn to do fiberglass work to build a new tank support and repair the cuts to the cockpit seat. Sounds like a big deal - not really. Kids did ( or still do ? ) repairs to their fiberglass surf boards all the time with little to no training. To be safe I did overbuild the repairs ( oak framing tabbed and screwed as much as possible ) . To my knowledge they are still holding and it didn't take but a couple afternoons - more to measure and think/plan as I recall. While not a small job - you certainly don't want any leaks or failures - I would do it again if need be.
Good Luck !