I will be replacing the original gate valves for the cockpit drains on my '76 Typhoon, #1178, with seacocks. They are gritty and feel loose and corroded. The area under the cockpit is quite shallow and there is not much room for the regular lever types. Are gate valves the only answer here? Has anyone done this job? If so, what brand, size and type (plastic or bronze) did you use to replace them? I figure the through-hulls will need to be replaced as well since I may destroy the originals getting them out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Paul Danicic
Typhoon HORNET
MPLS, MN
nyeme001@tc.umn.edu
Typhoon Through-hull Replacements
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bill Bloxham
Re: Typhoon Through-hull Replacements
Try this:
All sizes are ¾”
West Marine Part # Part
402570 bronze thru-hull
106783 45 degree bronze “ell”, Female to Male
195420 “Appolo” brand bronze ball valve
113003 Grocco full flow tailpiece (uses 1” ID hose)
282285 1” ID hose (buy a 3’ section)
115655 8 ea. #316 Stainless hose clamps (don’t use the cheap
price ones – they rust too quick; and double clamp hoses at both ends)
Put in in parts order (ell between thru-hull and ball valve) with teflon plumber’s tape. I used 3M5200 on the thru-hull to hull joint. Total cost three years ago was about $120, and the scuppers will drain long leaf pine needles right through. Took about two easy hours once I figured out the parts (which took days to do). You might want to put all the bronze together before tightening the thru-hull coller so you can make sure the ball valve levers can clear everything and test for full-open to full-close lever swing. Good luck.
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
All sizes are ¾”
West Marine Part # Part
402570 bronze thru-hull
106783 45 degree bronze “ell”, Female to Male
195420 “Appolo” brand bronze ball valve
113003 Grocco full flow tailpiece (uses 1” ID hose)
282285 1” ID hose (buy a 3’ section)
115655 8 ea. #316 Stainless hose clamps (don’t use the cheap
price ones – they rust too quick; and double clamp hoses at both ends)
Put in in parts order (ell between thru-hull and ball valve) with teflon plumber’s tape. I used 3M5200 on the thru-hull to hull joint. Total cost three years ago was about $120, and the scuppers will drain long leaf pine needles right through. Took about two easy hours once I figured out the parts (which took days to do). You might want to put all the bronze together before tightening the thru-hull coller so you can make sure the ball valve levers can clear everything and test for full-open to full-close lever swing. Good luck.
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
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Paul R. Mitchell
Re: Typhoon Through-hull Replacements
I've also replaced one of my gate valves with the Apollo bronze ball valve (a previous owner had already replaced the other one). The ball valve works well -- plenty of room to throw the lever.
I didn't use the 45 degree elbow -- but it sure sounds like an excellent idea. Trying to get an "S" bend into wire reinforced rubber hose in the 9-12 inch length available is tough. The bend also puts a lot of sidewards force on both the cockpit drain nipple and ball valve/thru-hull assembly. I think I'll try putting in elbows in the Spring.
Paul
prmitch@ix.netcom.com
I didn't use the 45 degree elbow -- but it sure sounds like an excellent idea. Trying to get an "S" bend into wire reinforced rubber hose in the 9-12 inch length available is tough. The bend also puts a lot of sidewards force on both the cockpit drain nipple and ball valve/thru-hull assembly. I think I'll try putting in elbows in the Spring.
Paul
prmitch@ix.netcom.com