Teak Coamings

[Tim Mertinooke]

I took the teak coamings off of my Ty so I could finish them in my basement. When I removed them there was silicone caulking between the wood and the deck. I assume that the caulking was there so that any water that comes on the deck won't go behind the coaming into the cockpit. My personal feeling is that the caulking isn't necessary and that the wood would prefer the small air space to avoid an environment perfect for rot. If anyone out there has experience with this I would be very interested to hear what you did. Thanks. TIM

[Andy Denmark]

While your logic is good, this caulking does exactly what you surmised. It is there to keep water from running behind the coamings and onto the cockpit seats. Most people find it uncomfortable to sail with a wet butt and that's what you will have if you don't caulk between the coaming and the deck.
________
Michigan Marijuana Dispensaries

[Tim Mertinooke]

What type/brand of caulking is used for this type of application? TIM

[Dick Barthel]

Tim,

I think a lot of people use Boatlife Life-Caulk which comes in a tube or cartridge. Most use white but some use black for a nice look also. For a nice clean look be sure to use masking tape on the borders of the bead.

Dick

[Tim Mertinooke]

Thanks for your advice gentlemen, I appreciate it. TIM

[Steve Laume]

I did the same as you and took the wood off the Ty to be finished in the comfort and controled enviornment of the shop. It also allows you to do all sides of the wood so moisture does not get into the wood and under the finish. As far as caulk I just couldn't see the point. By the time there is enough water moving around to flow in that seam you are going to be very wet already. I say spare the caulk and bring on the waves and spray. Sailing is supposed to be a water sport and a little bit of caulking isn't going to change that anyway. I may be all wet but thats the way I see it, Steve.

[ronellis]

I agree wholeheartedly with Steve's philosophy on sailing - It's a water sport. I encourage my guests to wear swimsuits and enjoy being close to the water.

As far as to caulk or not, it depends on your uses of your boat. I esclusively daysail in my CD25. I always get to go home and change into dy clothes after a day on the water, so the caulk is not very important to me. If you're cruising or even just overnighting, staying dry will probably have a higher priority.

[Tim Mertinooke]

Encapsulating the wood was the real reason I took the time to take the coamings off. Although not always practical, the only way a finish job is complete is if you cover every side of the surface you are finishing. I found some rot on the backside of the coaming where it touched the fiberglass. I imagine that in this boats 23 years of life this area was never coated with any type of finish. I also think the caulking helps create this rot. I think I'll go pure this time and skip the caulk. I'll just have to warn my guests of wet fanny sydrome.

Here I go opening a can of worms within smelling distance of this board...I varnished the coamings and they came out great. A representative at epifanes recently told me in an e-mail response that finishing teak with their high gloss clear varnish would provide a finish that will last 10-12 years in my climate (Mass.) providing it's done right and you apply two maintenance coats each year. Such pretty boats, I say make them look their best even if it means a little more work. I'll give this board a report at the end of the season as to how well the varnish held up. TIM

[Dick Barthel]

There is always great debate on the board between varnish and a product like Cetol. I am one who likes the look of varnish and enjoys maintaining my boat. Admittedly, it's easy to feel that way with a 25 foot boat. The 33 and 36 is another matter.

I'm no authority but even in a climate like we are in, I think to have a successful finish last 10 years, maintenance coats are required. Once having attained a minimum build up (maybe 5 coats) you need to lightly sand and put on a few maintenance coats every year. I do it in the fall. I do not beleive there is any product that will last 10 years with no further effort.

In a 25D you can sail in some pretty rough stuff and not get your seat wet. But perhaps in a 22 the caulking does make less sense.

Dick

[Dick Villamil]

Excellent discussion since I have just removed and refinished the teak coamings on my '76 Ty - Victoria. I have used 5 coats of Cetol Light - I don't want to find the blackened spots that occur after every knick in the varnish. However I feel that the caulking will do more than prevent wet-fanny syndrome. I want to prevent water from entering the screw holes and soaking the laminate. Also if you don't prevent water from sitting between the wood and fiberglass - all types of microbes can grow there - evertually causing stains and seepage crud to discolor the fiberglass. I will put a bead of caulk (West Marine equivalent of Boatlife) all along the board - especially in and around the screw holes.

[Jim Sullivan]

I.M.H.O. as the previous owner of two Typhoons over a period of 14 years, I would definitely apply caulking. I replaced the caulking at the joint in question a few times on each Ty and used Boat Life with good results. Without caulking, if you sail at times with the rail to the water, you will surely be taking in water--can be a pain. Also, caulking even makes the outside joint between the coaming and fiberglass look cleaner/better.

Jim

[Mathias]

I have a CD25, and want to re-varnish my coamings, but they are attached to the cabin at the forward end of the coaming. How have others removed this, and how is it best re-attached? Your experience would be appreciated.

-Mathias
Sunset, CD25, #332
Lake Champlain

[Ben Thomas]

Tim, several years ago I replaced the coaming boards on my 30, they were split from POs helmsman seat stressing the boards. I later discovered that the screws that held the boards in place against the glass had no chalking. Water had penetrated through/around the screws into the balsa core between the laminate. Saturating the balsa. Major chore in repairs. So be careful that the screws are sealed from the decks. Ben

[winthrop fisher]

Hi..
well i have used almost ever thing on the market,
but i will all was go with ""Schooner varnish"" i use this on the inside and out,
besides the inside only gets done ever eight to ten years,
and the out side gets it ever other year in salt water and in fresh water ever three years,
and besides you should never sand teak, there are teak cleaners on the market that takes ever thing off.
just my two cents
winthrop

I took the teak coamings off of my Ty so I could finish them in my basement. When I removed them there was silicone caulking between the wood and the deck. I assume that the caulking was there so that any water that comes on the deck won't go behind the coaming into the cockpit. My personal feeling is that the caulking isn't necessary and that the wood would prefer the small air space to avoid an environment perfect for rot. If anyone out there has experience with this I would be very interested to hear what you did. Thanks. TIM

[Guest]

I have taken the coaming boards off to redo them and have left the caulking off. I found that inserting one of those nylon washer between the board and the fiberglass when replacing the screws was a good idea.

What I would like to know is how to remove the rest of the years old black cauking

Les Bloom
S/V Pyewacket 1974 TY #576
Portsmouth, RI