What size is the CD25D Propellor Shaft?

[Bob Dugan]

Hey Folks,

We bought a zinc anode for a 1" shaft from West Marine, but it doesn't appear to fit on the shaft.

The anode is shaped like two thick "C"s that are clamped together with four screws. The two halves of the anode don't come together completely... there's about a 1/4" gap between them.

I'm pretty sure I had the same problem last year and last minute ended up getting an anode that did fit from the yard, but I don't remember the prop shaft size... maybe it was 1 1/8"?

Bob Dugan
"Cricket" CD25D
Wayland, MA



bdugan@stonehill.edu

[Ray Worthington]

Hey Folks,

We bought a zinc anode for a 1" shaft from West Marine, but it doesn't appear to fit on the shaft.

The anode is shaped like two thick "C"s that are clamped together with four screws. The two halves of the anode don't come together completely... there's about a 1/4" gap between them.

I'm pretty sure I had the same problem last year and last minute ended up getting an anode that did fit from the yard, but I don't remember the prop shaft size... maybe it was 1 1/8"?

Bob Dugan
"Cricket" CD25D
Wayland, MA

The shaft size on my 1982 #30 25D is one inch. However, the zinc that fits is a donut shape.
Halcyon
St. Simons Island, Georgia, where sailing weather has arrived.



rawor@thebest.net

[Mike Leonard]

The 25d shaft is 1". Perhaps an anode for a smaller diameter shaft ended up in the 1" bin and you inadvertently grabbed it.

[Jeff G]

I put my calliper on it this weekend and it measured 1 inch where the shaft exited the hull.
I'm going to have to do this same project soon so I'm very interested in what you end up
getting for a zinc.

Hey Folks,

We bought a zinc anode for a 1" shaft from West Marine, but it doesn't appear to fit on

the shaft.

The anode is shaped like two thick "C"s that are clamped together with four screws. The

two halves of the anode don't come together completely... there's about a 1/4" gap
between them.

I'm pretty sure I had the same problem last year and last minute ended up getting an

anode that did fit from the yard, but I don't remember the prop shaft size... maybe it was
1 1/8"?

Bob Dugan
"Cricket" CD25D
Wayland, MA

[Sea Hunt Video]

As many of you know I am in the process of coming up with "projects" for when my new-to-me Cape Dory 25D arrives in South Florida in mid-October.

One of the smaller projects I have been thinking about is the prop shaft zinc. It is my understanding the folks who haul their Cape Dory sailboats in the Fall and launch in the Spring generally install shaft zincs are part of Spring commissioning.

Initially, my Cape Dory 25D will be at a marina - rigging mast, painting bottom, etc. After that she will mostly be in the water at a mooring.

Assuming I receive permission for this small project from the CDSOA Project Approval Committee ("PAC") I would like to install a new zinc anode while she is on the hard. After that, I will periodically inspect while cleaning her bottom and replace as needed while she is in the water.

I would appreciate receiving recommendations on the SIZE and TYPE of zinc anode I should install. It is my understanding the prop shaft and prop are OEMs. My preference is to install a zinc anode that is easy to work with and install underwater. I am very comfortable working with wrenches, drivers, etc. underwater. All my underwater tools have wrist lanyards. The only issue is dropping nuts, screws, parts of the anode, etc. Once dropped, they are essentially lost as the mooring field bottom has about 8"-12" of soft "muck". I know this from experience.

So, for those who own (or owned) Cape Dory 25Ds and install their own prop shaft zinc anodes, what is the recommended SIZE and TYPE

Thanks in advance for any and all recommendations, suggestions, etc.

[Neil Gordon]

Bob,

I have a 1" shaft and the 1" zinc doesn't quite close around it. Way less than a 1/4" gap though. I would say less than 1/8". The next size up is too big and won't tighten against the shaft.

The 1" with a teeny gap has never been a problem.

[barfwinkle]

Bob

here is a link to the Camp AA propeller nut. It has three components, the zinc, the nut that screws on the the very aft end of the shaft and then a mounting screw.

You put the nut on the end of the shaft, slide the zinc onto the nut, and use the screw to attach the zinc to the shaft. It fits nicely on the end of the shaft with no worry about clearance (at least on Rhapsody, your mileage may very).

The only caveat is that their are several different nuts and when I order mine from WM several years ago it came with a "fine" thread nut. I had to re-order the nut and it was a special order (for WM) and get the course thread nut. Still have the fine thread here on my desk if anyone wants it.

No fuss no muss.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ller+Nuts#

Fair Winds

[Sea Hunt Video]

Bill and all:

Can the Camp zincs be installed while my CD 25D is in the water

The Camp zincs look like they are "egg shaped". From the diagram on the website it looks like you remove the prop and slide the zinc up the shaft.

I guess I am assuming there must be zinc anodes that can be attached around the shaft without removing the prop.

[barfwinkle]

If you have a tank the Camp AA can easily be installed in the water I would guess.

You dont have to remove ANYTHING to install the AA. I should say on Rhapsody I dont.

[sharkbait]

Beware some of the donut type zinc's do not have captive nuts. It is very easy to drop a nut or two when trying to install one while underwater. My solution to the problem is to apply a drop of super glue to the nuts.

[barfwinkle]

Robert it might not be a Camp AA but it is one one them. They are shown & listed at the top of page19 of the Camp catalog down loadable @ the Camp web site.

Fair winds.

[JWSutcliffe]

Following up on Bill's earlier post, I agree that the Camp prop nut zincs are fairly easy to change in the water - just back out the socket head cap screw and remove. I did, however, find I could avoid the need for this by hanging a "grouper" zinc off the transom. Even in a marina like I am in with a lot of stray current (550 slips with mostly power boats on shore power all the time) the zinc fish has enough zinc to last several seasons and minimize the erosion of the prop nut zinc. I clip it to the aft stay fitting which is in turn bonded to the ground system.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Robert it might not be a Camp AA but it is one one them. They are shown & listed at the top of page19 of the Camp catalog down loadable @ the Camp web site.

Fair winds.

Bill:

I looked at the Camp Zinc website catalog. I think maybe it is the Camp Zinc Only Part No. "CC". The catalog says it is for shaft sizes 1" and 1 1/8". The CD Owner's Manual says the prop shafts are all 1" diam.

I'll visit a WM to see if it a type that I can install while in the water. It would have to be a two part anode where the two parts "clamp around" the shaft and are secured with screws, etc.

For those interested, I accidentally found (I am "computer challenged" ) this thread on the board where Cathy M. lists a bunch of companies that mfg/sell zinc anodes.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... =camp+zinc

[rtbates]

Nobody using a Perry Nut??

I am because there isn't enough shaft sticking out back to put a doughnut type on, and they're so easy to install underwater..

[Sea Hunt Video]

Randy:

Where do you get them

What size, etc. do you use on your Cape Dory 25D

I read a post by Cathy M. from 2-3 years ago that said Perry Nuts are no longer being made. Cathy said:

"The company that manufactured Perry Nuts is long out of business, so you won't find any Perry Nuts. Use Camp zincs instead."

If Perry Nuts are now being made again and are easy to install underwater, that sounds like what I would want for a zinc anode.

Thanks in advance Randy for any additional info on locating Perry Nuts.