I am thinking about buying a 1978 CD25. What are the possible problem areas that I should Look for? What is an appropriate price?
Thanks
Tom Foley
Kennebunk, Maine
alewifehouse@mainecoast.net
What are problems to look for in buying a CD25 ?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: What are problems to look for in buying a CD25 ?
I just bought a 1976 CD25 for $6,500. Typical price is from $6K to $12K and seems to depend mostly on the condition of the particular boat, age of outboard, age of sails, etc. If the sails and OB are origional, go on the low side of the range. Top price should be for the people who just spent $$$ on a refurbishment (sails, OB, rigging, electrical sys, head update). Pay a little more for a steel cradle, or a trailer. Pay no extra cost for electronics.
Problems:
hatches in cockpit: hinges are installed in such a way to allow water intrusion into the wood core. Unusual for Cape Dory, where the rest of the deck is absolutely sound even in old boats.
Look at bottom of mast for damage due to stepping mast.
Examine the "mish-mash" filled in on top of the ballast in the bilge. Any freeze damage will show here (its only cosmetic but it tells you about the previous owners).
There is a sump in the keel aft of the ballast. Watch out for crazing here (freeze damage), which might be structural damage. Also look at bottom of keel in front for evidence of grounding.
Climb into the lockers in the cockpit and examine the underneath the cockpit floor around the rudderpost (water comes in here, look for damage.
Definately get a survey, with a good sounding all over the deck and hull, and a moisture meter check around all the deck fittings.
By the way, do you know about the recirculating head?
Regards.
mbbradford@yahoo.com
Problems:
hatches in cockpit: hinges are installed in such a way to allow water intrusion into the wood core. Unusual for Cape Dory, where the rest of the deck is absolutely sound even in old boats.
Look at bottom of mast for damage due to stepping mast.
Examine the "mish-mash" filled in on top of the ballast in the bilge. Any freeze damage will show here (its only cosmetic but it tells you about the previous owners).
There is a sump in the keel aft of the ballast. Watch out for crazing here (freeze damage), which might be structural damage. Also look at bottom of keel in front for evidence of grounding.
Climb into the lockers in the cockpit and examine the underneath the cockpit floor around the rudderpost (water comes in here, look for damage.
Definately get a survey, with a good sounding all over the deck and hull, and a moisture meter check around all the deck fittings.
By the way, do you know about the recirculating head?
Regards.
mbbradford@yahoo.com
Re: What are problems to look for in buying a CD25 ?
I removed the recirculating head on my '74 CD25 (#147) -- disgusting is the only word I can think of. I'm using a porta potty I bought for $35. but wonder if I should put in holding tank in case I want to sell it.Bruce Bradford wrote: By the way, do you know about the recirculating head?
Also, I have fresh water tank (24 gals. I think) under V-berth. But only small inspection port and no way to get all the water out. Do some of you have drains on bottom of tank (as opp. to the lower edge of side)?
jjhollister@excel.net
Re: head
Recirc head is no problem. Disconnect intake hose to head and connect to a "t" fitting you can install at base of sink drain. This now flushes with clean outside water. See, no problem. And you guys went out and bought a porto-potty to slide around on/in!!!!!!!
pierat@msn.com
pierat@msn.com