Above the Salish Sea

[David Patterson]

The Strait of Georgia has moods, to be sure. Among that archipelago of islands near Nanoose I was reefed both main and jib. A couple of hours later, from above the Ballenas to Bull Passage, I motored with the main up in a calm. Entry to Bull Passage was wing and wing in Force 2. I was grateful not for it to be heavy weather. CLOUD GIRL is on two anchors to allow her to stay in the center of a narrow cove, and to easily get switched 180* by me, as needed, without twisting the rodes. A simple arrangement. The cove is much narrower than it looks, especially in a low tide, with a tidal range of 16' or more.

[David Patterson]

Some catch-up posting for the handful who have been following along: dinghy on the beach, taken from what I called Cell Phone Cliffs, where I climbed for occasional connection, Jedediah Island marine park; forest succession, as a new evergreen grows in an old logging stump; some wild goats, which legend ascribes to the Spanish exploratory expedition of 1791, perhaps left to multiply for future provisioning.

[David Patterson]

A primarily sailing passage track from Jedediah Island to Pender Harbor on the BC mainland. About 16 miles in 5 hours, which included 30" of motoring in a calm for the stretch along big Texada Island. Winds from every direction, from Force 0 to Force 4. Yet, mostly they were fair for the passage. The second photo is of exiting Bull Passage on an overcast NW day. Pender Harbor is a provisioning stop for me before completing my route up Malaspina Strait to the Discovery Islands. Malaspina Strait is recorded as being named by the Spanish after a noted Italian navigator. I prefer to imagine a Spanish deck officer looking out at the strait, in one of its more dangerous moods, then muttering to himself this Spanish colloquialism: "Eso me da mala espina," which translates to "That gives me the creeps." So it has me, at times.

[David Patterson]

Pender Harbor is a fine place for an admirer of boat houses. If, as Arthur Ransome claimed, a house is only a very poorly built boat, so fast aground you can't even think about getting it off, this boat house, which is one of my favorites, may represent an evolution. For one, it's nicely close to the water, with a sturdy marine railway. For another, once overturned it might almost serve! I enjoy the lines, and also the tidy land house that is its tender, apparently. Notice the heating oil tank and the smokestack. I envision the captain working through long winter days, warm and happily engaged, maybe with a chowder simmering for lunches. At the docks of Madeira Park, a service center of this area, big PORPOISE shows her shippy nature and clipper bow. In a pharmacy window I noticed a sign. I was tempted to pick it up, but after 17 days into this cruise, on an only 25' boat, I'm not sure I can honestly make those wild claims.

[David Patterson]

Every community has unique problems, with unique solutions. A former fishing town turned to tourism, Madeira Park of Pender Harbor addressed an odd problem with a fine mural, in the first photo. At the docks, a remarkable example of a nearly century-old wooden boat shines. Some rum-runner may have enjoyed use of this craft. Most of the liquor smuggled to the NW US during Prohibition came from BC, where it was legal. The last photo? As certainly as that the Coast Guard regulations have us display our anchor lights "forward" and not "upward," mega-yachts like this one count as a significant hazard to small craft in the Salish Sea. Operated by often inexperienced owners, automated to run from waypoint to waypoint, they frequently and stunningly have no one (!) on watch. No one. When I spot one anywhere near me on the water, I prepare to avoid, in spite of having more than adequate radar reflection. How long, aboard one, to get from below to the bridge? Will the hazard alarm even be audible over the music aboard? I rate them a greater danger than the very professionally operated tugs and tows, than most floating logs even. This one is larger than many, but the so-called modest ones could still sink me, seemingly by their wakes alone at times.

[David Patterson]

A few random photos. First is a defunct marine railway, the donkey engine still in its shed at the top. Commercial fishermen back in the day were their own mechanics. Here and there a fishing boat can be seen pulled just above the tide for hull and/or prop work. I was also taken by the greens in the scene, reminiscent to me of verdigris on bronze, after years near salt water. Second, certain facilities are not always easy to find for cruisers, many places. The only laundry washer/dryer in the harbor that is available to a cruiser at anchor is behind that half-opened door. Brand new, comparatively inexpensive, though 1/2 mile of rowing each way, for me. I like these waterside picnic tables for their colors. All is "spiffed up" for the Victoria Day 3-day weekend, which seems to inaugurate the tourist season here. A few private yachts --small sailing craft back then-- began first coming to Pender Harbor back in the 1920s. Last is the Madeira Park waterfront, the public wharf and docks being behind that gathering of masts. I'm anchored about 1/2 mile off to diminish the effects of comings and goings, though still near some over in Garden Bay, where I anchored. Less though. Provisioning by rowed dinghy takes a bit longer, of course, but the exercise helps me manage my Type II diabetes, when not actively passaging. The quality of light in this photo is attractive, to my eye. My harbor tasks are nearly done; winds in Malaspina Strait are high and not fair for me for a few more days. Even then they may be too high for me at first. NW and SE winds trade off in a kind of contest in Malaspina.

[David Patterson]

Winds allegedly turn fair for me tomorrow, but will probably be too strong at first for my skill level and the size of the boat. Gusting Force 6 winds are to me best handled by a snug anchorage. As an old saw goes, Force 6 (22-27 kt) is the small boat sailor's gale. Even by upper Force 5 (17-21 kt) I want to at least be near my anchorage. I'm provisioned well for my next passages, though, including much fresh food. CLOUDIE's icebox has 80lbs of ice and a couple layers of food. I can count on 10 days of cold, until the summer warms the waters. Refrigeration of some sort would be nice on a next boat. 2 weeks between provisionings works out easily. Longer can be handled. Water becomes a limiting factor after 3 weeks, for me. I have much to learn about longer-term provisioning. The second photo shows some local art. The largest Pacific octopus is found in these waters, up to 8' across, I read. Not the infamous giant squid, of course, but a large enough marine animal. Diving for recreation is said to be superb in the Salish Sea. Last is a fine Canadian cutter, ILA, with attractive lines and in Bristol condition. Aside from the bowsprit, I'm drawn to the way her beam gives her so much "reserve buoyancy" above the waterline. Yacht design factors will make for some interesting study this winter. PUFFIN, to port of ILA, is a "wishbone cat," I suppose. Her hull seems to be very spacious. How does that sort of rig handle? Weather helm? The mast has no forestay, and only single shrouds, apparently, if any.

[tjr818]

PUFFIN, to port of ILA, is a "wishbone cat," I suppose.
David,
I believe that is Nonsuch 30. If we had not gotten our Slainte CD-27 I think a Nonsuch 26 was our very next choice, not a boat to cross an ocean, but a wonderful weekender and daysailer. The next time you are near her take a look at that cockpit, unlike our Cape Dorys, I think that the Nonsuch 30 can seat 12 people. It could also hold about 1600 gallons of sea water

[David Patterson]

Thanks Tim. I used to study the Nonsuch line but didn't recognize it. With all of that breadth maybe it could handle the seawater weight, though at one ton per cubic yard.... Here is a look at ILA's bowsprit, raised via its stay. She is a 24' Paul Gartside (a revered NW designer) cutter, built by him. One of his Surprise series? Nearby this 50' (?) classic cruiser --COMPADRE, built 1929 in Stockton California-- empties the mind of anything but herself when seen. That is a dock piling, not a smokestack, of course. Her stem inclines ever so slightly back, just an intriguing degee or two. Ashore, I indulged in one of the distinct pleasures of cruising in provincial places. The Victoria Day festivities in this small community include much of the Scots tradition, with the important appearance of the local Mountie (tall enough to oversee the crowd), who escorted in the May Queen. I remain in harbor, respectful (and overly-cautious?) regarding a reversal of the wind forecast in coming days. Perhaps I'm getting too careful in my old age, but I've been out in this strait in a high-wind warning before. Very lively time, my fresh memories tell me.

[David Patterson]

Steady adverse weather patterns have discouraged me from entering the straits, though I keep thinking I could slip out on single favorable days, but since I'm heading beyond my area of familiarity, I've remained conservatively in place. My small boat looks tiny, in the first photo, anchored out in 5 fathoms to avoid too much traffic (which passes by anyway) and for ease of sailing from anchor when more boats are around. In spite of the empty photo, multiple boats have been anchored nearby over the holiday weekend and after. Distances at this end of Pender Harbor aren't as great as they appear. A colorful walkway extends over the entrance of a tidal lagoon in Hospital Bay, in the second photo. The light-colored two-story building was the first hospital built north of Vancouver city, along BC's Sunshine Coast, opened in about 1930 to try to save some of the seriously injured loggers, who had been dying in accidents up in Jervis Inlet far too frequently. A dangerous profession, then and now. Currently it is rooms for tourists. The cottage in the last photo charmed me on a walk ashore. A serious gardener lives in it, clearly. A friend who gardens exclaimed, "Look at those hostas!" on seeing the photo. A series of good wind days, with not overly-strong winds that are to be fair for me, is forecast to begin on 5/26. If so, I'll sail on toward the Discovery Islands. I'm currently 24 days into this cruise, going nowhere fast. But, then, it's not about the destination, really.

[David Patterson]

A few last photos from my week and a half sojourn in Pender Harbor. My current plan is to sail out mid-day, in spite of it being a Friday. I'll be extra watchful, though what's in a superstition? (Plenty, many cruisers would say.) I'll miss observing the remaining old places along shore, like the elongated one in the first photo, apparently accruing over time as various needs arose. Regal CD40 MINTAKA, also cruising north, made my recent days socially enjoyable, the crew generously bringing me a few important items, from a needed guidebook to a used light airs sail. I've struggled with light airs equally with heavier winds in this region. Out bashing into 4' short-period flat-faced waves in the Strait of Georgia, such as they crossed in, I've wished for a boat this size at times. In the last photo is the exit of this remarkable harbor, sometimes malicious Malaspina Strait mistily covered between here and tall rugged Texada Island. An excellent time in harbor, ending.

[David Patterson]

Tucked away in the well-protected anchorage of Ballet Bay, Nelson Island, the forecasted 35 knot gale out in the northern Strait of Georgia today seeming of little concern. I won't be going out to investigate the geometric progression of wind power with increasing wind speed. Nope. The first photo is of CD40 MINTAKA, with whom I'm cruising briefly and enjoyably. My CD25D CLOUD GIRL looks like a toy poodle in comparison. MINTAKA seems rakish and a bit piratical to me, with her dark hull and the clouds seeming to reach down towards her mast. To get here I had to motor for several hours in a calm, worth doing to detach from Pender Harbor's recently cloying grasp. Cape Cockburn of Nelson Island is known for difficult currents. True to form, I tracked closely enough to find out for myself. Along the Strawberry Islets the SE wind finally filled in enough for me to run, reach, and eventually short tack through the narrow entrance to protected Ballet Bay of Nelson Island. The second two photos illustrate some chart scale issues. Look at the first of the two, near Nocturne Island. The underwater cable symbol obscures two significant rocks. I was able to discern those but was glad to be arriving, as suggested by a well-known guide book, at low water in this area. Unable to obtain a desirable large scale chart of Blind Bay, back in Pender Harbor, I had to rely on the limitations of my nav program. (There are better ones.) Notice the blur in the last photo. The screen shot shows the scale difficulties of placing the anchor amidst marine cables crisis-crossing the bay, a potentially electrifying experience. Good to be tucked away in this little bay today.

[David Patterson]

Doesn't look like much at the chart's small scale, in the first photo, but the 32 miles covered finally got me out of Malaspina Strait. Dead on the wind the whole time, motoring most of the way, the passage eased by Mystery Reef. The section along the Malspina shore before Grief Point had 3' short-period choppy wind waves at times, and Force 4 (11-16 kt) winds. Every slight indentation of the shore became a bailout option in my mind as the wind rose. Malaspina in much more wind than that is no place for me. The most difficult section was outside Powell River, where ferries, mega yachts, and fishing boats created a very active sea state, made livelier by the wind over the tide. The second photo is of morning after a rain day, looking up Blind Bay toward the mountains surrounding Jervis Inlet. Last year this time I was sailing in the inlet's fiords in similar conditions. Stunningly beautiful. The last photo is of a narrow entrance into an anchorage in the Copelands Islands (the Ragged Islands to the locals) where the long passage day ended. The high-sided cut seemed no more than 20 yards wide when I motored in, though it could be wider. Coming in from wide-open waters, everything seems constricted. Now I'm poised to enter the Discovery Islands, where my sailing options entice. May the conditions suit the plans. They haven't so far on this already month-long cruise.

[David Patterson]

A few recent passages. One all motor the others (almost) all sail. To be out of Malapina is a relief, to be above the Salish Sea a satisfaction. The tide floods south now.

[David Patterson]

I regret not being able to post for those who were following along. Not many chances away from cell service. Here are a couple of shots. Good luck with your season's plans.