Salish Sea Cruising 2014

[David Patterson]

Waiting my turn in line for the mechanic (the old engine has atherosclerosis of the raw water cooling channels, apparently) I have opportunity for random boat work and photos. I'll eventually bring this boat back from its neglect. Someday. Some prefer hard dinghies but find them noisy against the hull. Inflatables can annoy as well. Here is my old rough but serviceable Sinbad 8 out on Bruce Bingham's pole arrangement (Sailor's Sketchbook author and cruising designer of Flicka and Trinka. I covered this in a post last year too.) Windin' Boy, my dinghy, is perpendicular to the hull--but held from touching--in this very placid version of wind and tide at odds. It works the same at Force 4 over a strong current. Kind of magical, really. Follow the lines and you will see the spinnaker halyard lifting up, the weight of the dinghy on its painter (thru a snatch block) pulling down, and fore and aft guys on the pole. The pole is on a shackle to the starboard upper shroud. On a breast cleat would be better. Simply pole out the dinghy and forget it. Quick to release the fore guy to row ashore. Minutes to set up and take down, with only basic familiarity. Good conversation starter. ("Is that to diminish roll?" Which it does some, especially when there is rainwater in the dinghy. And so on.) Also below is a screen shot of a chart of the two primary archipelagos of the Salish Sea, the San Juans to the SE and the Gulf Islands to the NW. Good cruising grounds for island lovers. Demanding challenges for cruisers under sail. Fast access for motorists. Notice the distance scale. Juan de Fuca Strait is to the S.

[David Patterson]

--I have an incomprehension. Still relatively new to cruising (third year on saltwater) I continue to be amazed at what typically is used for anchor lighting. This boat came in well after full darkness, as I was about to fall asleep. I watched the crew anchor, noting its location for swing, of course. At 5 AM on a clear, star-lit next morning, perhaps yielding 20% or more of daylight, I searched for this close and partly white boat against the dark forest background, with no luck. I finally tilted my head up to admire the stars before spotting the masthead light, on in lieu of a useful anchor light, even then I took it first as an airplane in flight. When moving in a dark anchorage, with vision perhaps compromised from looking at a depth guage or plotter, staring up fifty feet for another boat's anchor light is no more natural than studying the upper stories of a building while crossing a busy intersection. Nor more likely to be effective. Sure, a masthead light meets requirements, but does it make the boat any safer?
--Below, the reflected sky and the pre-dawn scene are beautiful to me, in a later grainy photo, after clouds moved in. I'm not a total curmudgeon, I guess. And I admit to hanging my anchor light at the backstay instead of at the forestay, where it could illuminate things when I check the rode. Instead, I go forward with a headlamp. I sleep best with an eye-level anchor light up, for sure. Other sailors are mostly trustworthy, unless they are novices/ill/exhausted/inebriated/distracted/afraid/or boated beyond their skill-level, but the limits of vision and attention remain. [There, I've unburdened myself about a pet peeve. Sorry to be so opinionated. Hardly anyone's hull gets rammed in a dark anchorage. I just don't want to be involved when it does.]

[David Patterson]

The very epitome of a calm anchorage.

[David Patterson]

--In a very calm anchorage (see last post) I constructed ratlines up the mast to allow access to my spreaders. The challenge I gave myself was to safely and effectively get to the spreaders single-handed, without mast ascending gear (that I don't yet have aboard). My first attempt was on the lower starboard shrouds, since I am right-handed and would need access to the mast front. As I worked my way up I came to realize the shrouds under pressure quickly narrowed. I'd end up on one cramped foot while I worked. Not really tenable. I moved the plan to the back lower shrouds, passing the step lines forward of the mast so as to leave the sail track clear, in case I needed to sail out before I could remove the ratlines. I was able to complete the first four steps while standing on the boom, the last three with both feet on the second step. Stiff broad-soled shoes helped. The line I used, adequately strong for my 155 pounds, was a new 50' piece of 1/4" low-stretch Dacron I had aboard as a replacement for a control line. The knots were rolling hitches. My shroud covers are tight and the knots did not slip. They did slide on uncovered or loosely covered cable. An option I considered was gorilla or friction tape under the knots. Since the geometry of the shrouds are what they are, the distance apart widens as the knots slide down anyway. Those center lines, visible from the bow photo [I'll post that photo later.] are tied with clove hitches and decrease sag in the steps. If you will tie a rolling hitch and study it, you will recognize that a rolling hitch is basically a clove hitch, with additional turns below the actual knot. One of my concerns was that the knots would tighten too much to loosen, after use. The before-the-mast choice with the steps would give me time to work the knots loose. I didn't want to have to cut that 50' line. Examine the photos, tracing the lines, for details. I was up the mast several times, but will finish my work when docked for engine repair, using a ladder tied below and above. A worthwhile exercise. I learned that I could get up to the spreaders while afloat, using what I had aboard. The safety solutions I came up with alone were worth the experiment. Clove hitches and running hitches, after coming under strain by the way, can get pretty hard to take out. Also, a metal fid sinks awfully fast from 20' up.
--First photo is of some ratline steps on the starboard lower shrouds. Second photo: detail of running hitches used on aft lower shroud ratlines. Third photo: temporary ratlines on aft lower shrouds, sufficient to reach the spreader area of the mast.

[tjr818]

Very ambitious David.
Is that white vinyl covering I see on the shrouds? I've never seen that before. So you tied these "one at a time" while climbing the ratlines? Any plans for going to the masthead? I am really intrigued.
All the best,

[David Patterson]

Yes to the white vinyl covering. I do a lot of running in light airs here, for some reason, and don't want the sail to get worn pumping against the shrouds, even with vanging down the boom, plus the genoa sheets cross the shrouds as well. Just a bit of help. Not "yachty" though. As for ratlines to the masthead, no way for me. Can't imagine it. Shroud angles to the spreaders aren't good, but it is straight up to the mast head. And a long ways down. This experiment taught me, among others things, that a good mast ascending system aboard is a darn useful idea for a cruiser. I've been to the masthead at anchor using a friend's bosun's chair, and his help, to re-reeve a halyard. I need a system to use alone. Leaning toward a climbing harness and ascenders. Or a MastMate. Not sure yet. The tying took time, but it flew by, as time does when having fun exploring and solving a problem. I've already taken the line down, and expect to sleep well from the whole experience. My piece of line is intact. Mast macrame. Here is the shot from forward of the mast. You can easily see the support lines for the center of the steps. A valuable addition. The angle makes it look tall. Recall that this is on a little 25D, with a mast of only what, 32 feet?

[David Patterson]

With time weighing somewhat heavily on my hands, as I wait in harbor for a mechanic's appointment, I'm looking around for something to share. The harbor near sunset might be worth it. So too might this way to protect deck and bright work from chain. Pipe insulation from home stores will keep a mooring line afloat as well as the pool "noodles" I have seen used on windy lakes. Less colorful of course. For a piece of dirty or rusty chain, a bit of pipe insulation can be protective. I keep some on my stern-release bow anchor's chain (see my last year's post of 10/1/13 for that). While my boat is so cosmetically compromised in places that another rub or stain would seem not to matter, I try not to add more. I think on 1/4" chain, insulation for 1" pipe would work, but I haven't measured. It strips right off, quickly, when using the chain. It would not work as chafe protection for a line or chain under load. Just a soft cushion around the chain. Meanwhile, I'll find improvement projects to use some time. Also below is a photo of probably the only CD32 on the west coast, one that has been to the Marquesas.

[David Patterson]

A single sail graces the evening on San Juan Channel.

[David Patterson]

KATH-ELL of Friday Harbor eases into the morning calm harbor with nary a ripple in her wake.

[Cathy Monaghan]

I love all of your great photos!


Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[David Patterson]

Thanks to Cathy for the encouragement. Three photos: mv TEAL, a piece of t-track hardware I'm now using, and a dockside way to get to the spreaders. TEAL was built in 1927 for the Bureau of a Fisheries, going to Alaska Fish and Game with statehood, serving into the '60s. Her private restoration took at least a million. The 1" t-track eye slide, with a shackle, is on my genoa track. Mounted both port and starboard (p&s), I use them to pole out my dinghy (pictured previously) and as an occasional tie point. With snatch blocks they can serve as spinnaker sheet leads, leaving the genoa blocks as rigged. The shackle folds over out of the way nicely, if large enough. (I found them on line at $18 each, through Amazon, I recall. Had the shackles already.) The ladder photo shows a dockside way to get to the spreaders. I've tied the base securely p&s, fore and aft, putting a line around the mast midway and again at the top. Standing on the well-secured top rung, I can work comfortably. For safety I use two rough weather harnesses and straps, both strapped around the mast over the spreader. I wear one harness upside down and backwards, over my legs and rump, (think about how that works) with its strap back around my body. I lean back on the strap like a lineman's belt, which frees both hands. Wouldn't work with a harness integral to a PFD, probably. My method works for me; it may not for anyone else. Let reason be your guide, and assess your own needs thoughtfully, please. (At the lower left corner of the ladder photo you can spot the position of the starboard t-track eye slide and shackle.)

[David Patterson]

Back to the mechanical side of cruising: I think you can trace the connections for flushing a simple engine like my Yanmar 1GM, using the second photo. The mechanic set this up with a Jabsco Water Puppy pump (hanging by orange nylon cord) and 1/2 " hoses. A hose takes up the solution, while the pump sends it into the raw water intake after the impeller, where a connection is handy. After circulating thru the non-running engine, it exits from the hose that has been disconnected from the mixing elbow. The thermostat was removed to protect it. The engine zinc is sacrificed to the solvent, as you would expect. He put in a partially used zinc I had kept. The solvent was a gallon of Rydlyme with a gallon of water, so 50/50. He taped a weight to the end of the output hose, in the five gallon bucket, to keep it from popping out and spraying the cabin. Longer hoses would allow the bucket to be in the cockpit, or even off of the boat. He said an hour of circulation usually does all it will do. The manufacturer suggests 2-4 hours. This ran an hour and 3/4ths. Salt and rust began to discolor the fluid instantly. After a half an hour test, running the engine later, my chronic over-heating problem seems gone. I will test it longer soon. I had cleared the intake, replacing impeller/thermostat/temp sender/mixing elbow, all to no avail. This flush appears (so far!) to have done the trick. Next time I'll do it myself, using my own electric bilge pump. Rydlyme, I find, can be had thru Amazon in 5 gallon amounts for about $30 per gallon. An excuse for a joint venture with other cruisers. Or, local suppliers should be able to find it in single gallons. A third of a century of being used hard and put away wet, with salt water, left a lot of residue in my engine's cooling channels. Flushing an engine with a heat exchanger could be set up similarly, I assume. Now I'm freed to return to cruising the Salish Sea. On to the Gulf Islands again, next. Perhaps beyond. On another note, wouldn't you love a tour of the handsome craft in the first photo? And hate to pay her mechanics' bills? (The bright but diffused light of the NW makes photos relatively easy.)

[Sea Hunt Video]

Last year my diesel mechanic also used "Rydlyme" to flush my engine as well. It worked great. However, he did not (and I did not) replace the engine zinc. I will have to check on that today. Would the Rydlyme eat away at the engine block zinc

Also, several months ago you told this board that ALL of your photos were taken by a small phone camera. Given the quality of your posted photos there is no way this is possible. We would be grateful if you would fess up and tell us what camera (Nikon, Canon, an old Hasselblad ) you are using.

[barfwinkle]

Hope that did the trick David....

Fair Winds

[David Patterson]

Bill, I really hope so too! And Robert, what the solution contacts is vulnerable to it, if it can react with it. My mechanic mentioned teeth. I will check the zinc today when I change back to a good one. As for the photos, still the iPhone4s and ProCamera7 on auto. My main assistance comes from my dinghy to get a fair boat shot, and trying to keep the lens clean. Sorry. No fancy camera. I'd be lost without the auto setting. And thanks for the appreciation, you rascal. Besides, I don't post my bad photos at all, of course.