Above the Salish Sea II 2016

[David Patterson]

Thanks, David. It's good to get an attaboy, and to read that my words are also valued. I enjoy the interactions I've had, very much. These cell phone/pocket computer cameras are great. I'm hoping for a next generation one for next year. Mine is from over two years back. Meanwhile, the first "equinoctial gale" is winding up to punch through tonight. I've gone to a two-bow-anchor set for the anticipated 45-50kt gusts in the open, wanting the anchors out even in this protected anchorage with excellent holding. Nothing like Hurricane Mathew at all though. Hard to imagine 140mph winds. Winds as high as 100mph have been recorded in these islands before. May I never.... The old Age of Sail sailors would wryly say they felt sorry for the folks ashore, on such a night. In WA, falling trees are the cause of most wind event fatalities, it is claimed. David, Parks Bay of Shaw Island

[David Patterson]

To spend time on the hook in the Salish Sea, during the months October through March (and others) a cruiser needs access to an anchorage with protection from northerlies, and especially another one for southerlies. Fortunately such anchorages abound. Since I base myself out of the central San Juans in the US, mine are typically Friday Harbor for northerlies, Parks Bay for southerlies, unless I'm out cruising. The first gale force system/front of the fall came through last night (10/6 - 10/7). Here are three screen shots at different scales to illustrate the situation. First is a depiction of the low's counterclockwise rotation, as it moves north along the WA coast, the mouth of Juan de Fuca Strait, and Vancouver Island. The site is animated, by the way. (Thanks, John, for making me aware of it.) Such a low will throw winds behind the Olympic mountains and straight up the Gulf/Strait of Georgia. Wouldn't want to be out in it, in either big strait, or the ocean! Next is mid-scale, showing the SE winds across the more local area. Last is a large scale look, with my anchorage flagged. My winds were less than shown. I'm not sure what they peaked at, for I slept except for a couple of moments, through the night, on two trustworthy bow anchors. Gotta have ground tackle you can trust. And be able to use it, of course. I did once note sustained winds reported of 28 knots, Force 7. That was before the peak speeds, and the attendant higher gusts, however. Hardly a hurricane, but nothing to be unprepared for, either. A big ketch blew into my anchorage before dark, the only other boat to spend the night. I'm sure she was grateful to have made the bay.

[David Patterson]

Between fall low pressure systems: First is a look up San Juan Channel to the NW, in Force 2 and 3 N winds. A few sail are out enjoying the day. I was under sail myself, while crossing the Channel on the slack-before-the-ebb. On the horizon the Penders and high Saturna, of Canada, are visible across Boundary Pass, perhaps 15 miles off. Second is this day's sunrise as seen from Friday Harbor, the point of emergence of the sun, now considerably farther south. Up here at about 48 degrees north, the sun's declination is obvious and seems rapid, almost day to day. I really like that near-metallic sheen of the water in this photo. Third, the next lows are to be lined up out of the Gulf of Alaska by the end of the week. In the Salish Sea their rotations will bring the winds in from the SE.

[David Patterson]

With "the season" for conventional cruising over, and fall gales becoming frequent, a different set of boats is making an appearance in the port in which I provision. Here are a variety of boats I photographed today. The first is HENRY ISLAND, which for lack of the proper name I call a barge-tug. She is a frequent local sighting in the channels, sometimes with a tanker truck of some fluid not allowed on the state ferries. From other waters are big (to me) ocean-going fishing boats like PAIGE MARIE, their net boat in tow like a ponderous dinghy. I watched a crew off one similar boat anchored out take their net boat into port as anyone would a dinghy. She is dwarfing the Bristol Channel cutter at her bow, the Canadian cutter just in to clear customs for some cruising "down south." PIXIE of Victoria kept my attention. While I still have good cell service, I may post some detail photos, later. Notice the very tall-aspect rig on 30' PIXIE. Last is a schooner -LANA, I think- that is probably late down from Alaskan/northern BC waters. Notice the many jerry jugs for diesel lined up on deck, which suggests she is primarily motoring, or really doesn't want to get caught short of fuel. Most of the other northern cruising boats headed south some weeks ago.

[David Patterson]

Here are some (slightly enshadowed) photos of the Canadian Bristol Channel Cutter mentioned in the last post. From the starboard quarter you can see the cockpit and cabin, and some interesting details such as the thump mats under the mainsheet's blocks. Plus more. At the bow you can see some of the, -to my eye- charming details of the butt end of the bowsprit, those handsome sturdy Samson posts in use, and those high bulwarks. Larry Pardey's said that "they keep my wife on board," no doubt a playful ribbing. Both jib and staysail are roller fueling. Linn teasingly calls them "geriatric jibs." My 25D has a roller furler. Great for single-handing, naturally. On the bow is what I take to be an old (now) two speed manual ABI bronze windlass, looking like a "found art" sculpture. Last is another stern shot, to allow a look at the backstay steering vane designed for these boats. At least I've not seen one on any other. John Letcher discusses them in his self-steering book, I recall. I find it interesting to think that this Lyle Hess design is contemporaneous with our Carl Alberg designed Cape Dories. Different solutions to sea-keeping, sailing, and comfort aboard. I'm sticking with Alberg to meet my cruising needs. The 1970s and 1980s were a kind of heyday for now-classic cruising designs, seemingly.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Hello David:

As always, thank you for sharing such great photos.

With respect to the Bristol Channel Cutter I was intrigued by what looks like a somewhat rusting CQR. What is the "preferred" anchor for your cruising grounds - if there even is such a thing as a "preferred anchor"

The CQR on S/V Pixie also looks "smallish" - at least as compared to the robustness of her other gear, etc. Just the thought of a guy who knows very, very little about such things.

[David Patterson]

Anchors are much on my mind at the moment, Roberto, for I'm tucked away for a blow. Dramatic (for this early) Pacific lows are slamming in, with promised winds sustained near 40 knots over coming days, to gust higher. My two bow anchors are out to windward with plenty of scope. My stern anchor is out to limit swing, avoiding wrapping of the bow rodes. The bottoms here are forgiving of anchor types, as they tend to be sticky mud. In places, like Port Townsend, kelp and "sea lettuce" can foul anchors as they try to set, deluding cruisers about security. More experienced cruisers do seem to lean toward CQRs here. They were originally designed for sea planes, recall, designed so as not to jerk the plane abruptly. Once buried, excellent. Quick reset if it comes loose. My primary is one. Bruces are excellent here, even Danforths hold well, but take longer to reset and may clog with vegetation. They were designed for drilling rigs, I read, to be set and left. More "scientific" modern cruisers lean toward Deltas, Rocnas, and even Bulwagas. My secondary is an easily handled 16.5 lb Lewmar Claw/Bruce-type, for cockpit release. I've described that setup before. My stern anchor is a very light Fortress/Guardian for quick deployment. Easy to foul with vegetation, though. The inexperienced cruiser seems to ignore the makeup of the rode. Proper chain, connectors/swivels, and always plenty of scope for the conditions can mean security without an over-sized, hard to handle, anchor. Windlasses and a rowable dinghy can be seen as part of the anchoring "system" as well. Your windlass better be able to be operated manually. I've seen a number of cruisers with fouled anchors and depleted batteries, stuck in place. I yearn for a windlass, for I could use heavier chain. Cruisers gathered in cabins during weather have reliable topics for discussion: passages and places are high on the list, and anchoring gear and methods also. Some have a near-religious attitude about it all. Better to know how to use what's aboard than to have the latest and greatest new gear, in my experience. The anchor (25 or 35 lb) on that Channel Cutter does need regalvanizing, but that bit of rust isn't affecting performance. The remaining white paint suggests she cruised in waters where visual checking of anchor setting was possible. White-painted anchors are more visible. Spare anchors make sense, too, during extended cruises. Up in Squirrel Cove in the Desolation Sound area this year, my primary anchor wrapped around a 10" log. I was just able to raise it enough that the log rolled at the surface. Good fortune. My primary would have become, if I couldn't get my CQR free, a 25lb Bruce from the bottom of my anchor locker. On that 73 day cruise, by the way, I anchored more than 40 times, in a variety of ways. Two essential skill areas of cruising, to me, are sailing and anchoring. Otherwise, we are limited to motoring from marina to marina. Fair enough if that is what you want, but there is much more to enjoy. Worth remembering is that if you only can do something one particular way when cruising, you will have no flexibility when thwarted or in a new situation. My apologies for being so wordy and opinionated. Hope you don't regret asking. David, in Parks Bay of Shaw Island, anchored for SE gales.

[Sea Hunt Video]

David:

I asked because I wanted your opinion and discussion. Thanks

While S/V Bali Ha'i is still resting on her trailer I am looking at acquiring new anchor gear - mostly anchor and chain. I have some quality rode that has seen little use. The current three anchors are old and "smallish" to my thinking.

Right now I have three (3) Danforth anchors -sized from average to smallish to "lunch hook" small. I have been looking at the Manson/Rocna models but am concerned about either how to secure a heavy 25-35 lbs. Manson anchor on deck (or on pulpit) or if they will fit in the anchor locker of a CD 25D. The shape (with the semi-circle guard) is an issue.

Thank you again for your anchor thoughts. Receiving such information from someone who does it daily, especially on an identical Cape Dory, is invaluable information.

[David Patterson]

Good luck with the new anchor, Roberto, a fun task to have. Lots of comparative info about choices out there, some of it contradictory, of course. A satisfying cruising moment it is, to let go the anchor: whether it is set by motoring it in, sailing it in, backing the main, reversing the engine, or just laying back to the wind. Knowing you have a good anchor properly set, with adequate scope, as you head below for a satisfying meal is great comfort. Old advice comes to mind: have several types of anchors, go one size up on the recommended length to weight chart for the primary, be able to handle what you have (35lbs is too much for me to handle as an anchor, without a windlass), and ask cruisers who anchor where you do about their experiences with their own anchor choices. All basic sense. The anchor locker of the 25D, by the way, is roomy and well-designed, I think, and would work on a larger boat. Plenty of room for long enough rodes and adequate chain, and certainly one or more of your Danforths as a backup/secondary bow anchor. Not to mention floats with lines, snub line, etc. Even small anchors are useful for me, such as at the stern for stopping swing, or as you mention, a lunch hook. My locker inventory surprises me. Loaded for cruising, as my boat is, the weight in the locker is not much of an issue, though I try to keep my fairly light chain low in it. I try to be sure that the drain is not clogged. Good anchor gear is good sleeping, I find. Enjoy your anchor-purchase and rode-making process, perfect off-season tasks. Make it all up, lay it out on the grass, and post a photo, please. Will you put in a swivel above the chain? David

[Sea Hunt Video]

David:

I fear I may have "hijacked" this thread. A quick answer to your question. I am looking at different types of swivels for anchor chains, including information provided by Practical Sailor:

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_63/

[tjr818]

Speaking if anchoring . . . David, are you getting any of those typhoon winds we are hearing about? 100kts

[David Patterson]

By good fortune alone, Tim and others, the remnant of a "super typhoon/Pacific cyclone" has arrived with less strength than feared. Potential wind speed estimates had topped at 100mph. The center, so clearly organized in that first photo, moved north along the coast. Still, winds reached at least 41 knots, or Force 9, near me. A strong gale. Winds much stronger were forecast. I elected to be in my usual storm hole for southerly wind events, Parks Bay of Shaw Island in the San Juans. A few other choices are near, but I didn't want a longer passage. The second photo shows the location relative to the large straits. Seattle is off the Sound, lower right. The area was spared a big blow. As was I. Better to be over-prepared than sorry was my stance, along with the reality that ground tackle does no good in the locker during high winds. With a reminder from a friend, I removed and bagged my 150% Genoa soon after dawn yesterday, while winds were still low. I next rousted out a 10kg/22lb Bruce (3* on the shore plan) from the bottom of the anchor locker, with its tail of a couple of fathoms of chain, then bent on a reserve nylon line, and rowed it out to the SE as a storm anchor for my little sloop. Southerly winds can swing into this anchorage from E to SSW, due to the island's topography. The beauty of the anchorage is lack of enough fetch for wind waves above 6 or 8 inches, in southerlies. With all of those anchors out, in winds from E to SW I would be riding to at least two anchors, as the wind veered or backed. The stern anchor is there to keep me off that float nearest, and to prevent a rotation of the boat in any swirling winds. Three bow rodes wound around each other? That would have been a disappointing mess. In the event, the anchorage served its purpose. I had some Force 7 maybe 8 gusts that threw the boat over briefly. No toe rails awash, or any such drama. Alberg's designs don't have the very high freeboard, that creates so much windage, as do modern round-bottomed designs without much of a keel. Sea-kindliness is not a trivial issue. While I can't claim ground tackle, boat, or crew received much of a test, the exercise was valuable. A normal night's sleep was one reward. Now to recover and restow my gear. I'll pop that third anchor out, from the dinghy, using the anchor trip float I put on it. The others I should be able to recover from aboard, by slacking off on appropriate rodes, with the help of wind or engine. The anchors are well-buried, of course. Overall, another experience to tuck into the ditty bag for later reference. The cove of the bay in which I'm anchored is larger than my rough drawing suggests, the hazards -except for the nearest float- are farther away.

[David Patterson]

Likely a last post. A fascinating and satisfying cruising year is ending for me, as I plan to slip my boat in the port marina of Friday Harbor, tomorrow. Just for visual enjoyment, should you like, are a set of photos: a point covered with fruiting madrone/arbutus trees, and a closer look at their vibrant color. May you all be back on the water soon. I won't be back aboard until mid-December or later.